Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech Fuse box voltage readings

I was wondering if someone would do me a favor?
Pull the #7 fuse and test the voltage at the fuse box with a multimeter and the key switched on. I'm reading 10.7 there but all others are in the high 11s and 12 volt.
I'm chasing a gremlin.
My bike is a 2003

You have been chasing electrical gremlins on that bike for years. All the fuses should have battery voltage regardless of what they power.
Check battery voltage from post to post then from the positive post to the engine and the frame. These readings should be the same. You have a bad connection or a bad ground. Pull out your ignition switch and check the voltage in and out you may have some corrosion inside the switch or at the connectors.
I found some corrosion at the backside of my fuse box and the ignition switch connector before we took the trip out west. Cleaned up the crud and liberally added dielectric grease.. so far so good.

Thanks Chy, you're correct about years. At one point or another I've replace everything
But the main wiring harness. I replaced the ignition switch a few years back.
I'll dig into the ignition switch. Fuse box looks to be clear of any corrosion.
Front and back.

I use to use Dielectric Grease on electric connections , but years ago an electrician friend of mine turned me on to No-ox-id contact lub.

https://www.sanchem.com/electrical-contact-lubricant.html

Okay here's the latest on my electrical gremlin. All four Turn signal indicators are pulsating. This starts about 1-2 mins after the bike is running and continues. Left and right signal will work as they should. I'm running a Kisan Signalminder. Give it a google if you're not familiar.
This unit has a running light option. I've had one on the bike for probably 8 years. Last year the pulsing started, I chased it then. Assumed the unit was bad. I replaced it with a new unit. Problem went away, a year later and the problem has returned.

Today I spent a few hours removing , dissembling, contact cleaning and reapplying di electric / silicone grease to the ignition switch and fuse box. Anyone that's dissembled the ignition switch knows how much fun that is., tiny springs, beebees. No corrosion found, just crud and did not resolve the issue.

As suggested, I tested all fuses again after cleaning. Previously I was testing with both leads in the socket and fuse removed. That was pointed out as not the best way to test. Today I tested all fuses with the red lead on the hot side of fuse and black to a good frame ground and then an engine ground. Readings were the same on both grounds.
I'm going to list the fuses as you are looking at the box top to bottom.....
#11. 12.2 V .........#5 12.1 V
#10. 11.8v ..........#4. 12.7 v
#9. 11.98 v..........#3. 12.1 v
#8. 11.98 v.........#2. 12.1v
#7. 11.98V ........
#6. not used.
Battery voltage 13.02

Have you been inside the headlight bucket? I have seen terminals in that connection melt the connector due to excessive resistance i.e. bad connection.

A few times, all looks good but I may revisit it with a through cleaning tomorrow.

That critter needs to be left on my doorstep for awhile.

Hahaha, it's crossed my mind.....

I would let you ride the Sportster back home but I like you too much.

Now that's a good one right there. Hahaha