Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech Disconnect TPS

Nope... didn't notice any change in mileage there Dave. I'm getting upwards of 140 miles before reserve without TPS. But then again there are so many variables to consider... just saying didn't notice any noticeable change.

Yeah, I'm guessing it's my needles more than anything. I need to change my mains and possibly my pilot jets.

I suspect I will only need access to one size of these special types of torx head renoving bits, and that's for removing the "whatsamecallit" so I can fit the eliminator kit.

So can someone please tell me what sized

Quote:

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hollow torx bit also called a saftey torx

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I should ask for???? and,

Is there any other similar bolts on our bikes that need the same safety torx removing tool bits because maybe I do need to get a set. I don't know but it looks like Triumph didn't want us removing it for some reason.

Thanks in advance for anyone who can help because I don't want to waste my time buying the wrong size. Otherwise I'll ride my bike to the store and ask the tool shop if I can see whether the bit fits.

Just prefer the first option that's all.

cheers
staffo

The one that fits the TPS cover is a T20. The only other use on the bike that I know of is on the tank badges, and that size is a T25.
Rather than buy screwdriver-handled torx tools, you can buy a set of bits instead....

Bought a set of 6 or 8 safety Torx bits w/ a 1/4" drive socket in plastic holder at Napa for $10. My BMW K1100LT has some of these bolts also, seemed worth having the set for the low cost

We don't have a Napa store here but I'll go somewhere equivalent and see what they have. If I can buy a cheap enough set of bits I will, particularly now I know the size of the ones of particular importance .

Otherwise I'll just buy the T20 safety torx bit for the tps removal kit.

Thanks for your responses.

Hey Frank, nice one. That's what I'll do. Might use my dremel just because I can.

thanks for the tip

Be carefull with that dremel, those carbies are rather soft.

After reading all the reports about disconnecting the TPS, I decided to disconnect mine today. I have just come back from a 315 Klm run with the local Ulysses club and I can report the following..

1. Bike seemed to accelerate better or is my seat of the pants dyno out of tune!

2. There was a definite improvement in fuel consumption. (about 5%)

3. All popping from the exhaust has gone.

4. The only problem I found was that when I started the bike if backfired through the carbies. It only did this once and might have been me doing it with the throttle partly open i'm not sure.

I'll take it easy with the dremel. I also want to put my new Memphis Shades big shot on this weekend cos I'm going for a 3 day ride next Friday

That's good news Frank. I'll see how mine goes on my next 3 day ride starting Friday. Hopefully I too can believe there is a small difference. Thanks for the news.

I don't know what's happening but here's my report: I took off the TPS and put the LC cover on the carb, didn't unplug the wires, ran like it had Swine Flu - no power, no acceleration, just weak and sick. So as I was replacing the TPS I noticed that the mounting holes were actually SLOTS, so I twisted the plug as far counterclockwise as possible before tightening the screws and VOILA! - suddenly I had a tiger in my tank, better starting, much quicker throttle response, smoother idle and slow start rolling in 1st gear, and my pipes sound more like a real motorcycle! Acceleration and power appear to be increased also, so I think I'm going to stop fiddling for awhile at this point and enjoy the few riding days I have left before the dreaded "S" word sets in.

By removing the TPS from the carb without disconnecting the plug, your engine timing could mess up. From what I understand (pipe up if I'm wrong) the TPS would signal the ignitor unit that the engine is idling because it wasn't attached to the carb, but the pick up coil would be sending a signal to the Igniter stating that the engine is accelerating. Conflict.

Disconnect the plug and then check. If you reinstall the TPS it has to be adjusted as per TPS Adjustment

Yeah Gregger, as I was thinking about it, the engine ran like it was v. retarded timing and I realized that it would be sending incorrect info while still plugged in, so I still have to get to that darn plug (as soon as I have a 3rd hand to help!

I've just returned from a 800 klm ride after disconnecting the tps all together and putting on a removal kit.

I can't say the bike ran soooo much better or anything like that but I can say she is running as well as she has ever run in the past but much of that too I believe has also been due to my hand and info from dyno runs etc and of course this place.

Overall I haven't struck any adverse effects from the disconnection so I just siliconed up the unplugged section (btw, it took 20 minutes to get the bug#er apart) cos the way I see it, it's just one more unnecessary part that won't give me grief in the future.

It also tidies some of our wiring up just a little bit more which can't be a bad thing.

Overall, thanks to those guys who figured this one out.

So is this the longest running thread ever or what? Let me qualify that, the longest running non-event-related thread ever?

no need to let a good thread die

well time to revive an old thread.
have any of you found that after all this time there have been any negative affects from just unplugging the tps.

I plugged mine back in because I couldnt notice much of a difference.

oh of course I do. These are soooooo much fun

Thanks Bigbill you are the MAN!!

My question is, If you couldn't notice a difference with the Tps disconnected, why would you reconnect it? After all you wouldn't notice a difference reconnecting so why have wires sitting there doing nothing of any value.

I can guarantee my bike is running as sweet and reliable as he ever has which is a combination of various changes. Only one of them is the tidying up the Tps area. I'm just not convinced the euro emissions methods are all what they are cracked up to be. After all, if you are getting the best burn possible then there is less unburnt gasses and less bad sh*t entering the atmosphere. There has to be more to it than my simplistic approach surely?

noone has had problems from the CDI after running this way for a while. what timing advance mechanism is being used on our bikes. I get that the igniter and the tps working with the pickup coil is giving the info needed to adjust the timing. I had the alternator cover off but only to turn the crank as I did the valve adjustments. I didnt look at the pickup coil adjustment or mounting mechanism to see how it worked I was buisy elswhere. I can't afford a CDI at this point in history.

I didn't notice much difference and I reconnected mine just so I wouldn't have a "loose" wire hanging off the carb. Yeah, I could tuck it in but what's the point?

some where in this monstrosity of a therad there is an elimination kit. I may just try that and see.

Here you go Chad...

http://www.shop.lcfabrications.com/product.sc?productId=19&categoryId=4

that be the ones