Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech HELP! Bike's running rough, barely idles

Alright so too many things changed at the same time to pinpoint whats going on here....

Problem:
Bikes firing weird and sputtering like the timing's off or that sound when youre just running out of gas. I had to adjust the idle speed to keep it running. The engine sounds like it's clacking kinda loud possibly.

What changed recently:
The bike was backed into and knocked over. Blinkers and taillight bulbs went out. I was messing with my wiring under my seat to take my fender off. (remember I have the relocated battery and my wiring's scrunched under my seat). The other thing was that this is the first time starting it after changing the oil. I went with a fram ph6017A filter instead of my typical k&n bkn191 and I used Castrol 10w40 but cant remember if I usually use 20/50 or not. Was thinking the engine could be making more noise now if I'm going lighter than usual.

Bike ran great last weekend before it got knocked over. She rode home fine after the fall too.

Where to start?

The thinner oil is probably not the problem. Thinner oil gets lubrication to all the right places quicker at start up and your engine runs slightly cooler as a bonus. Just me but, I wouldn't run a Fram filter on a pedal car.

thanks Ryk...haha

I just went out there and started it up again and she ran fine. Took it around the block with no problems. Could this be an intermittent ignition problem?

Sounds like one of your wigglin' pins is loose in its wobblin' box.

Maybe some chit got stirred up in the float bowls? Drop'em an have a look-see.

Quote:

---

Could this be an intermittent ignition problem?

---

EASY STUFF FIRST! Fuel crap. Condoms. Loose Hoses. Odds are 10:1 you'll be glad you did. And, even if it doesn't work in your favor - you'll be very near or touching all that stuff in the process.

+1 on the Fram

Check your tip over valve since the bike was knocked over. It could have stuck in the closed position and not rolled back to open when you stood it back up. A closed valve will give you symptoms of running out of gas.

Alright, so I cleaned out the bowls, replaced a condom, took it for two rides about 80 miles and thought I had it fixed. Riding last night after about 20 miles, out of nowhere she starts sputtering, low RPM, half idle, drags along for a bit, the dies and rolls to a stop. It sounds like the timing retards if that makes any sense. Has me leaning toward electrical.

What are some of the symptoms of the CDI going? This is the original CDI with close to 30k now.

What else?

But the bike would just die?...No sputtering or running at half idle?

If the CDI is the problem it might act just as you described - mine did, with the added fun that it was, I believe, heat related, as it only happened after the bike had been running for awhile and had heat up.

Corporate Triumph should have installed additional heat shielding around the CDI if it had to be mounted directly above the head, IMO.

My CDI went out acted just like you described, new CDI no problems. Yep heat related.

alright, I'm leaning towards this being the problem since the timing sounds off when its acting up. So does anyone know what years are compatible? I have an 03 790, so will it be a problem if I get a newer one made for the 865?

I believe you have to get one that is compatible with the serial number on the original CDI. Things may have changed with the new programmable ones.

Thanks MAC, Ive been reading about the TTP & Procom CDI's all day. Trying to decide right now and reading all I can.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks Dave! Seems like the firestarter is the way to go!

Anyone out there mount it in a different spot? I obviously have the relocated battery. I'm wondering where I should put it.

you should be able to get it under the seat still

I got a Fire Starter and it reaches under the seat if ya got room there. I left the old igniter mounted where it was so if anything goes wrong with the Fire Starter I can just plug into the old one and head on down the road. Well that’s the plan anyway.

Also, before you spend the money check the tank breather hose, make sure it's clear. There are several things that could cause this.

Stuck tip-over valve too.

alright, I was able to borrow another CDI instead of buying a new one. Before I changed it out, I started the bike and had the same issue Ive been having. Then I installed the CDI and she started right up. Took her down the road a mile, and BAM back to the drawing board.

I pulled the vent hose just to see if would fix anything and it's the same. I'm assuming that would rule out my tip over valve issue right?

So while I'm walking the bike back a guy stopped me and I fired it up for him. He agrees that it does sound like the firing is off, but only slightly.

What am I looking for now? Timing sensor and coils?

whats the proper way to check spark...is it as simple as letting the plug dangle? Ive only ever check that in a truck.

Flywheel ignition pick up come loose or go wonky, behind the stator cover? If you go that route, well as well check the gap while you're in there.

Tom, I just let the plugs dangle and ground out on a fin and tick it over. If it's not out in the sun you should see a good blue white spark.
Or you can just stick yer finger on the electrode

Tom,
I'm assuming the bike ran fine before the incident. Since you checked the carbs, lets assume it is electrical for a minute.
1. You changed the CDI unit so it shouldn't be that.
2. It still runs which suggests it is running on one cylinder. If it still runs rough, check to see which exhaust pipe gets hot. Fix the side that's cold.
3. You could have a bad spark plug wire, defective spark plug, loose primary wire connectors or a failing ignition coil which can all cause an engine to run on one cylinder. The coil can be checked by switching the primary and secondary wires between the coils. If the problem switches sides, one coil is pooched.
4. The pickup coil usually causes the engine to completely quit, not run on one cylinder. They can fail when they heat up and open electrically. Then work again when cool.
5. Have you pulled the plugs to see if either are wet, carboned up, cracked etc?

Hope that helps.

Alright thanks for the help so far fellas.
I got a chance to mess with the bike just now and here's what Ive observed....

At first she ran fine, I let it idle for a while, then went to ride it. As soon as I tipped the bike to the side for the kickstand, she started to stumble. Put it back down on the stand, and she was fine. Tipped it back, and she stumbled again and stayed that way. Any ideas?

So with it running like ****** again I pulled each plug individually to check the spark. The left plug looked like it fired more erratic than the left side. A few brighter sparks, peppered in. So I changed the plugs and tried it again. I was still leaning toward the left side looking erratic.

So with the new plugs, the bike would actually start up and idle with just the left plug in, but not with just the right plug in.

What would that mean?

So I swapped the plug wires and tried it again. Same thing happened.

Also the right plugs wetter than the left.

So recap....

left plug, erratic spark, but starts it, dry
right plug, normal spark, no start, wet

I also took some video so you guys could hear the sound. I'll upload soon.

surely there is a priest in South Jersey.
or maybe a Shaman
I know a good witch doctor here

sorry, it's that pesky flora again

Dang, I'm scratchin my head on that one. Really crazy. I have some issues on the Speedie now as well.

If it runs crappy when on a lean, it could only be a result of fuel level. Check the bowls.
Electrics and mechanicals are immune from Boyle's Law.

haha....Yeah Wade, weird it acted up when I leaned it off the stand. But it stayed running that way after 2 leans.

Heres the video I took. I'm guessing if you dont know the way my bike sounds normally, you wouldnt exactly notice it. But you can hear a hiccup type sound when revving.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNH1WTKhyfE&feature=youtu.be

Any thoughts on the video fellas?

Tom, this may very well be a waste of time, but have you tried disconnecting your fuel line at the Carbs side and put a little air to the hose, with your petcock open and tank vented? It wouldn't take a lot of time to accomplish and no major dis assembly involved.

yeah?....air into the tank?
You thinking it'd clear out the petcock?

Well if that fixes it, you know which direction to go.

Ryk,
Was raining last night so I couldnt work on it.

Here's my thinking....
Why does the bike start on the left cylinder with the plug removed, and not the right?

The right coil has to be bad.

Ive switched the plug wires with the same problem, my question is can I switch the wires feeding each coil?

If the dead cylinder follows the coil used, you probably have one dead coil. As to switching the coils, yes, you can just switch/trade all the wires. If the dead cylinder goes to the other side with the switchover, you've solved your puzzle.

Cool...I'll try that tonight hopefully if I have time, and report back.