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Hi all, a bit of an extended story here so just move on if your attention span is low or whatever.

On Sunday I thought I'd change my bike's tank badges that I bought off a good Aussie mate Taddy, who used to frequent this place before trading up to a T-Bird.

Anyway, I ended spending half of Sunday trying to remove one (the othef 3 have been loosened) stubborn security torx screw that just won't budge.

So off to the local hardware (Bunnings) I go to buy the right tool to do the job but this is where I stuffed up. Because I didn't think I'd have much need for an expensive set of torx security thingimabobs, I mistakenly bought a cheaper set.

Bad move staffo. I loosened 3 of the 4 like i said but as usual there's always one that'll be determined to stuff ya round right? Thinking it needed a bit more elbow grease, I started to realise I had to be careful otherwise I might damage the screw. Well after not being able to loosen the ******, I decided to check to see if there was something wrong with the cheap Chinese made piece of tin. Turns out the female part of the tool made to the highest specifications in line with it's cost, wasn't recessed as deeply as the screw and hence my not being able to put the full 800 ftlbs of torque needed to budge the little trouble maker.

I even tried to drill the hole deeper but being a newbie in this racket will know better next time. So back to the hardware to exchange it for one that had the deeper recessed bit and exchanged it for the one that'll work. Yeah right, this time the fit was perfect but the screw had decided it was going no where. In fact, all I ended up doing was bending the part of the tool so the end looked similar to a pump's impeller if you know what they look like.

So far I've spent over two hours sweating, bashing my teeth and swearing, blunting 3 drill bits and now putting more k's on my ute's odometer.

This time I did what I should have done in the first place and exchanged the second lemon for a quality tool.

Unfortunately, the screw had now been damaged to the point where it wouldn't allow me to put the full force into the turning part as it's slipping round. I can still put a fair bit of force into trying to loosen the "I'm staying put" screw but not enough to undo it.

So, what does a bloke now do besides deciding to either call in an expert for the job or cut my losses and leave the original badges on. The last option doesn't appeal to me all cos like smoking, I'm not a quitter ha ha, and anyway, the badges are way too nice to not be embellishing my "Ferdinand's" tank.

Any ideas most welcome.

Cheers
Stacka

Btw, I did apply some WD but the screw like I said has got it's own agenda.

Did you try putting the bit in the screw and giving it a few sharp raps with a hammer? Remember this is your gas tank and is sheet metal so don't hit it hard enough to damage the tank. This will shock it loose....maybe.

Why is it always "trade up" to a Tbird? I would consider that a step down from my machine.

Know any shops with a EDM setup? That's one of the most assured ways to remove a fastener that is too difficult to drill straight and heat transfer is a concern? me? I would first tack a washer on the button of the bolt and the patiently weld a nut atop the washer via a tig torch preferably, millwrights have their tricks it seems

If the meat is gone from the screw head, drill it, preferably with a left hand drill bit. Once the screw head is gone, the badge should come right off.

http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&h...6affe93747c32d0

They rotate counterclockwise to drill.


Drill talk: HSS / high speed steel, Cobalt, Tungsten carbide, or Polycrystalline diamond (PCD) are your best choices to gnaw into a hardened steel fastener, listed in order of durability - the lesser first (HSS), the harder (PCD) last. A drill bit that is not specified as any of the above is pretty much for wood and soft materials only. Any decent hardware store should at the least stock HSS.

I'd be OK with a right hand drill bit if left handers are elusive. Start small and work your way up to just right.

Just me, but, I replaced the old screws with stainless non-security screws and a dab of of never seize (or grease would work) on the threads, but living in the woods, I do almost no long term parking in high theft areas.

I have never had any chrome fasteners that did not turn to rust in a year or so, and so I go with stainless.

As Dog suggested lightly tap bit with a small hammer. Heat the stubborn bugger with a small tourch. Cuss her one more time and get it done.

Staffo sorry to hear about your delima buddy....
what your needing is a impact screw gun cordless prefered
push as hard as you can and let the inpact do the rest short burst's on the trigger will do it-i had to use one on mine when i removed them
Benny

First off, my apologies for taking so long to reply. It's been a week since I posted but I do thank you guys for your excellent suggestions.

Before anything though, it's a good point Dog mentions about my subconsciously saying "trading up" to a T- Bird. I agree, why was I saying it like that. Got no idea cos both bikes have got good and not so good points where only an individual can determine if he or she sees one better for them than the other. Fwiw, I've got no intentions on buying one but I'm keeping my options open. So Ian and everyone else, I'll cease forthwith from such inappropriate "bike speak".

Now that blo*dy nuisance of a chrome security torx screw. To be honest it's been in the too hard basket but after this reply I'm going out to give "the Tap Tap" suggestion a burl as this was said to me by someone else as the first method I should try before moving onto the more serious but effective suggestions I had no idea about. Like California's Gov' - Big Arnie" I'll be back.

Hey eureaka. The tap tap tap method worked. As was suggested, the chrome screw had rusted just that little bit where it wouldn't budge.

I tell ya, I just love it when I can get on here with a problem
I've got no idea how to solve, and not only do I get solutions
I can try, the easiest one of the lot works.

Here's some pics for interest.

Staffo, Good to hear you have it solved. It's amazing what a hammer can fix.....

Staffo my comment about trading up wasn't directed at but just a generalization. Yours was just the post where I decided to say something about it. I personally don't like the Tbird but I consider it a different bike not a step up or down even if I may have said I think of it as a step down.

I'm glad the taps with a hammer worked for you. That will work on many stubborn screws and bolts. Usually best results if you stop and do that before the head is damaged.

I reckon it was good the "trade up" comment was brought up actually cos for some reason that's really what I thought it must be.

To be honest I haven't spoken about the bike to anyone than those that have them and of course they love theirs. Me, I'm indecided whether I would want or even need one but it appears it's been an almost taboo subject on here to even talk about At least that's the impression I've had. So I guess speaking to the owners I may have been brainwashed I'm not sure really. What I do know is, I just don't like the look of it's radiator much and I'm not a fan of looking down at the
speedo either. They are little things I guess. I also know I have an attachment to my SM that I'm not sure I'd want to break. He is like a good mate of mine with lots of history together. Sounds stupid but I'm loyal like that. I was surprised to hear the comment about the SM being faster though. That was a joke right? Regardless, my bike offers me everything I need and more and 99% of the time I ride solo so there's no issues there either.

Anyway, there does seem to be some emotion on this subject and I certainly didn't want to tap into those as I did inadvertently. I do think it's healthy to say what you think though cos I prefer straight talkers as I can tend to be one myself. You always know where you stand with people if they say it the way they see it too. No, we don't always have to agree either but I do dislike half truths and people who aren't entirely honest with themselves either.

Funny how I can start talking about bolt tapping and end up speaking about straight talkers

Thanks again to everyone for your suggestions. You won't believe how satisfying it was to feel that stubborn screw move. It really made my day. This site has still "got it" that's for sure and I really hope it stays that way.

Now, back to servicing Ferdie for my first descent ride for 2 months. Me and a couple of mates are venturing into Ned Kelly country

Cheers my friends
Stacka

Hey Stacka, Empty your PM box.

I'm a fan of "percussive repairs and maintenance" myself.

Good thing you didn't need the bigger hammer.

Once ya got that nasty ol' stubborn screw out o' there, I gotta say I like the way that Mouth Organ/Garden Gate tank badge looks on your bike there, Staffo!

(uh huh, yep, nice...ahem..."upgrade" there, dude!)

what size secure torx bit is needed??
thanks

t25

thanks...again

I wonder if that new tank badge is an upgrade?

I think like a lot of decisions we make in the looks department, most of them get down personal taste. I also don't think the photos do the new badges justice either.

Mmmm, maybe just a little bit Dwight but after now just reading that 10 pager in the lounge section, maybe I've picked the wrong word again when I say 'little' and I should consider a more appropriate term.

I haven't got any problems with people speaking their mind, particularly as this topic defends the integrity of the bikes this forum was created for.

My main concern is whether some (not me) may now think twice before posting in case they say a word (not an idea) not meant in the context it was taken.

Anyway, these things are only big if you let them be. We've had em before, we'll have them in the future. Just as long as it doesn't get personal between people, they always blow over.

Btw, I did try to say something in the lounge section about it but a message window came up saying 'thread full'.

I doubt that, we still have oil threads.

Just curious, I wonder if trading from a pair of 32 c's to a pair of 38 d's would be considered trading up..?

not if the 38 d's are attached to face like Janet Reno.

Sure as he11 would be in my book!

I've ridden a couple of stock birds and felt they went flat after about 3000 rpm, how well do pipes and retuning wake them up?

Yep, same as if bought a bike with twice the engine displacewment...

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Just curious, I wonder if trading from a pair of 32 c's to a pair of 38 d's would be considered trading up..?

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