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Oops I just read Friar's post on off topic discussions. Whistle whistle... But hey, this threads gone off without my help.
Do I smell a delete in the air?
PM sent to Brent
Paul Harvey............ Good day

S'okay. I'm not a moderator anymore and the remaining moderators are asleep at the wheel.

I don't think Nancy would let me put THAT on my bike!

brent will this gauge work on a america with rivco risers will you be able to see the gauge with the bars sit back 2 inchs as with the rivco risers

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brent will this gauge work on a america with rivco risers will you be able to see the gauge with the bars sit back 2 inchs as with the rivco risers

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I can't say until it's tried. My guess would be that it would not work. But with the extra height, it may. If you want to test it out, we can offer a full refund if it doesn't.

Thanks!

-brent

Brent, will you be bringing out a black faced gauge? Would it be possible to buy all the hardware without the actual gauge?

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what is the finished OD of the gauge

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The gauge is 1.750" OD. Let me know if you're interested in test fitting it. Thanks!

-brent

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will you be bringing out a black faced gauge? Would it be possible to buy all the hardware without the actual gauge?

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We have the black faced gauges on order. We should have them nect week. I suppose we could do the kit sans gauge.

-brent

Got mine today I'll see if I can get it on over the weekend.

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I'll see if I can get it on over the weekend.

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YOU'LL DO IT NOW!!!!! Throw me a bone, Man.....

-brent

I'm cleaning, our nephew is coming over tomorrow, need to baby-proof. I also cleaned up all the oil that spilled in my garage from my oil change last week,... I'll see if I can slip out

Hmmmm, Seems to me, SLACKERS can slip up and open
doors, Eh?
LOOK AT ME BRENT!
I have my hand raised for next in line!

I'm totally clueless about this, but...are there gauges that display both the oil pressure and the oil temperature?

It would be nice to kill two birds with one gauge (sorry about that).

Benny, this is just an FYI, got my gauge kit from Brent (Thanks Chasity ) on wednesday, you'll note that Brent's instructions specify the use of either a 30mm Deepwall Socket, or a wrench to secure the adapter hub onto the top yoke. 1-3/16" is darn close fit, and Sears does sell a craftsman set that includes a 1-3/16" deepwall socket, though unfortunately I haven't found one individually. I'm going to find and use a socket, because I'm paranoid about being able to use a torque wrench to properly secure everything, whereas I'd have to swag with a crescent wrench.

Just an fyi.

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are there gauges that display both the oil pressure and the oil temperature?

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There are guages that will tell you all kinds of stuff. Some of them can get very expensive.

-brent

Thanks. I have no 30mm socket.... Trip to Sears?

Belay my last Dood, just picked up a Deepwall 30mm socket from autozone for just under $14 bucks. Apparently 30mm is a pretty popular size for axle nuts for FWD cars. Try your local autozone, O-Reilly's, Advance etc... cheaper than paying almost $40 for a 6 piece Deepwall socket set from Sears. My set-up should be installed here within the next coupla hours!

Wow! Took a little bit longer than I thought, mostly because I ignored the directions with regards to routing the house, and then realized the error of my ways. Gauge reads 50 psi at idle!!! A little bit optimistic, but it's like a little mini-tach, the revs go up, the pressure goes, it's fricking awesome.

Thanks for the heads up!! I have a ton of sockets already, no need for a whole set of anything. 14 clams I can handle!!

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Gauge reads 50 psi at idle!!!

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That's cold, right? Mine reads that when cold but about 30 when hot.

-brent

Good point, that was right after cold start-up. My compliments to the coolness of your oil pressure gauge kit, the thing is tiiiight!

Thanks, Brother.

-brent

Mine's going on in the AM. FYI I have a Ma's signal relocation bracket, so I will be making sure it works with that or making any necessary mods to fit it.

Did either of you have a hard time screwing the pipe fitting onto the bottom of the gauge? Mine is REAL snug, I douibt I could even come close to bottoming it out...

Mine was the same way, I was about 1/16" of an inch from making full contact. Threads are very tightly cut. I tightened the two together until it physically hurt my hands to push on the wrenches.

Install complete. Test ride complete, all is well.

Todd and Brent called me back and they explained that the pipe fittings are steele so we can garilla them down. I did the "squeeze two wrenches togehter with one hand" metho. Nice n snug. My hand;t didn't hurt at all, and I didn't get any leaks, not even a drop. Only thing I didn't do was orient the gauge right, so it is sideways, but I'll fix that.

Brent I'll e-mail you all my pics, and post a few too.

Overall impression, GREAT set up. Real simple as long as you are smart and think ahead a litte. I have a Ma's Signal bracket, so I had to drill a hole in that, and I installed a rubber grommet I had laying around in the hole, REAL clean looking, and no chafing.

Now going into this I wondered why the America would be any different than the Speedy, well it was made apparent when I went to remove the stem nut. SHORT RISERS! Duh. If you look straight down on that stem nut, you'll see there isn't much room between the bars and the nut for a SOCKET to slide on there. So I had Kim hold my bars, un-did the riser clamps, and had her hold the bars against the speedo. I installed thenew nut, had Kim hold the front wheel steady with her legs, and torqued it down. No problem.

Here's my "think ahead" list:
-Run the set screws into the fitting before you install it, then back them out to install the gauge. Running them in with it install requires dislocating a few fingers to get at them!
-Extra set of hands for the bars.
-Don't tighten the hose to the gauge untill you have the holse fully plumbed, then get the angle you want on the gauge and tighten it.
-Drill the hole in the rubber plug and signal bracket (if you have one) fish the hose down THEN slup the plug over the end and into the neck, THEN slip the hose thru the bracket and re-install it. The hose doesn't like going thru rubber, so you need to be able to manipulate it.
-BEFORE you remove the banjo bolt from the motor, blow some compressed air around it to remove the grit from around the fitting, it;s a little recess so it collects.

Suggestions:
-it is tight against the bars, so I cranked two of the set screws down to hold the gauge as close towards the tank as I could. It would be handy to have one slightly longer set screw on hand.
-Take the tank off. It takes 5 extra minutes, and makes running the oil line real simple. I zip tied it up by the AI bracket. Nice S curve to it now. I then ran it down just to the left of the rear motor mount, right next to the carb balance adjustment screw and to the banjo fitting which is oriented to the left (opposite the stock oil line).

Also, the double banjo bolt that comes with the kit is WAY better than the one for the other pressure gauge. Brent, you should sell them separately. There is a ridge between the two ports so the copper washer between the two fittings doesn't need to be futzed with. It basically self-centers. Good times.

That's all for now, more to come with the pics.

OK boys here's some pics for ya. I know the gauge isn't straight!!

Here's the difference between the banjo bolts, Brent's on the right.



Here's how the oil line goes un between the down-tubes, but above the oil cooler.



Here's my rig for drilling the hole in the signal bracket. LOVe the step drill bit, didn't even chip the chrome! Good times.



Here's the hole...


Here's the grommet in the hole.



Here's the oil line coming out of the neck/bracket and going up under the tank.



Here's a shot of the fitting on the neck. See how close to the bars?



Here's the gauge, see how close to the bars?



Here's a head on shot of the gauge.




I want to get some better shots after I align it so it is upright. I also may take the tank off again and get some better shots of the line routing.

Any questions?

Benny - I've been kickin' this idea around - but I've got the Rivco risers, which places the handlebar squarely over the stem nut. What is the height of the gauge? I doubt it will fit

You can see in this pic, it is just above the top of the bar in the stock location... whatever that measures out to be.

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You can see in this pic, it is just above the top of the bar in the stock location... whatever that measures out to be.

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That was just a little to obvious for me to figure out....thanks...

So the stock riser is about 2-1/2" to the top of the bars and the Rivco's are 2-1/2" to the bottom of the bars.....

Brent, if you're listening...some of us are interested in mounting location plan B!!

The gauge assembly is 2.625" tall. Just barely too high for the Rivco bars. We'll look into an alternate fitting for use with those.

-brent

Unless you mount the clock off-center...

Brent I would think that stem nut fitting could be made shorter if need be, but even so, the BARS with the rivco risers would obscure the gauge anyway, no? Unless you figure out a way to mount the gauge TO the bars and just use that fitting for it's hole.

OK. So does the guage thread into the stem?
Or is it a press fit type deal?
How about threading the inside of the neck and doing an
S-curve type adaptor to take it higher and towards the tank
for Speedys and such?

The entire inside of the piece is threaded as it screws onto the neck. BUT the gauge is held on by 3 set screws that grab the fitting, and the gauge itself sits on top of the fitting. This is good, because I could cheat it down towards the tank all the way to clear the bars. It fits speedy's just fine because they bars are above it. As for the S adaptor, anything is possible

Would the bars block the view any on the SM?
In your opinion, Suck Up?