Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech rotella T6 5W40 synthetic?

Anyone use it and results? or the rotella15w40? ride a 06 speedie w/865 engine and thinking about using it.Know there used to be some talk on here of the rotella but haven't seen any in quite a while. Have only ran synthetics(mobil, amsoil, & castrol on this last change, seemed to get a lot more topend noise w/ the amsoil) & only have 13,000+ on the odometer.Change oil every 3000-3500mi. Know can go more but just personal preference. Would like some feedback. Not trying to start a pissing contest,as most oil questions turn into, just want some feedback from users. Live in ok,(aka hotter than hell). Ride yr. round.Thanks for all responses.

just found an oil report for a member user name blackwind for rotella 5w40 in the tech vault. Pretty good report.looks like he is from Houston so probable comparable weather most of time. Would still like feedback.THanks,

Sooner, I've been using RotellaT Deisel Synthetic 5w/40 for about 3-4 years now and it does fine in St Louis heat and humidity. Not sure what the T6 designation is for but you don't want to use automobile oil with our wet clutches.

Thanks Tony, for the reply. thought the full synthetic 5w40 had the T designation with the 6 after it, perhaps not.

In the API service box, note JASO MA spec

I kinda wish they had put a little motorcycle picture on there too,
but I guess you can't have everything


I use the stuff in my pickup and lawnmower too, if Walmart doesn't have the recurrent $25 for 5 quart Mobil 1 deal going on. The price is right for synthetic.

Shell developed this oil in response to the increased heat and demands for the 2007 emissions campaign as imposed upon class 8 trucks. http://www.dieselnet.com/standards/us/hd.php#y2007
One tiny error in that link - it was calendar year, not model year, in case anyone is keeping track of these things.

I think this relevant to rotellaT vs. T6 ....

Quote:

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It is important to note that as an oil classification is superseded by a newer one, that the newer one provides improved benefits over the older one in such areas as high and low temperature deposits, wear, rust and corrosion for example and is perfectly suitable for use. All quality motorcycle specific oils should also carry the JASO Motorcycle Specifications, which are either the JASO-MA specification (no friction modifiers) or the JASO-MB specification (with friction modifiers). The JASO-MA rating specifies that no friction modifiers are used. Note that the JASO-MB motorcycle does have friction modifiers, but is designed for motorcycles that specify the JASO-MB specification. If the oil does not carry one of these specifications, even if the other specifications listed above are present, We recommend finding an oil that has the proper JASO specification clearly labeled on the bottle.



http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/motorcycle_oil_technical_facts.htm

For what it's worth, T6 is a group III oil

http://www.synthetic-oil-technology.info/

"Full Synthetic" is marketing talk.

That's not to say it isn't good oil, it just isn't PAO or ester based.

You guys run what you want I'll stick with Amsoil. The extra money is worth my peace of mind.

I've used nothing but the Shell Rotella T Full Synthetic since I dumped the break-in oil at 500 miles. Somewhere along the way, Shell added theT6 designation. I researched it al at the time, and was satisfied that the change was an improvement, and therefore I keep using it.


I send in a sample at every oil change to Blackstone Labs. It's $20.00, but piece of mind. The viscosity may be lower than recommended, but my oil reports have all been very reassuring. My latest was at 73K, and showed nothing remarkable. I change at about 4K mile intervals, sometimes sooner by a bit, rarely later. My 2004 Owner's Manual showed to, before they later went to 6K recommended intervals.

I really liked what I read about Rotela on the Shell Rotela forum...there is a forum there for motorcycles. Bottom line is, it works, and it's reasonably priced.

I've used Rotella T6 in my Honda Shadow for a few years; it seems it's the oil of choice over at the VLX forum, as is the Walmart Super Tech oil filter. The new Speedmaster, OTOH, has had only 1 oil change so far, done at the 500 mile checkup. The dealer put some fancy oil in there — name begins with an M, but not Mobil, the other one — so he could charge me $293 for an oil change. In deference to the Triumph owner's manual, I think I'll stick with Castrol MC oil. It's a lot more money than the Shell oil, but I can justify that by going 4000 miles between changes instead of 3000.

Motul

It is not only so much cost as also what I have read about the smoother shifting and overall performance of the oil.

From all the testing I have read Mobil 1 and Amsoil are top of the heap.

I'm with Ian, Amsoil is the good stuff.

Like I said, I've tried Amsoil and it seemed like more top end noise with it. Ran Mobil 1 too. Was not displeased with either, except more noise & a little stickier shifting with the amsoil which surprised me, because I was really hepped up to use it after all I read & talked to people.But not enough to say I would not use it again. Thanks for the replies.

I work for a Shell RDC in KC, MO...and the Rotella T6 5W40 is a fine motor oil for most all recommended applications. Recently the folks from Shell came out to our site with their tech van & I had and interesting visit with the tech rep re: higher temp viscosity breakdown and fluid wall adhesion. Seems that the Rotella outmatches preformance of the Castrol equivalent vis oil. So when I get ready to do this years oil change/winterize my bike I'm gonna be using the Rotella T6.

Lot's of good info here

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

I run Rotella T6 in all my bikes. Puralator oil filters.

if i worked for xyz light bulb mfg, whose light bulb would i say was best?? read the non bias stats and reports from users before making a decision

and I thought it was ONLY for Diesel ??

It has additives for diesels but not limited to that and it doesn't have friction modifiers so it is OK for a wet clutch but I personally wouldn't run it when Amsoil and Mobil 1 cycle oils are available.

I would have two issues with using Rotella diesel oil in our bikes:
1. It's an oil designed primarily for use in diesel engines, which are all water cooled. Our bikes are air cooled, and that does make a difference in the way the manufacturer designs the oil.
2. Rotella oils like Castrol, Vavoline and even most Mobil 1 oils are mostly Group 3 petroleum based oils. Legally Group 3 oils can be called synthetic, but technically there is a very large difference between a Group 3 petroleum and Group 4 & 5 syn oils. One of the biggest you will see is the rate of change in Viscosity (due to volatility), which can be made even greater if the engine is air cooled.

Bottom line, if you like it use it, I would only recommend that you change the oil every 4000 miles or 4 months (which ever comes first).

Tom

I started out with Mobil 1 R 20W50 from the dealer I got my 06 America from. The dealer talked me into trying the Amsoil because it was a little cheaper, still in the 50 weight. My mileage dropped way off. Probly not the oil because I went back to the Mobil 1 and the mileage never picked back up. Since then I've used Mobil 1 fully synthetic automotive oil with no adverse effects with my clutch or engine but preferred the Mobil 1 R synthetic but could only get it in 10W40 at my local parts stores. Thats what I mostly used in the bike but the last oil change I wanted to go back to a 50 weight oil to dampen down the top end noise that is typical with our engines so I used Valvoline fully synthetic 20W50 Motorcycle oil. It quitened down my engine's top end. Immediatley after changing my oil to the Valvoline I put 1132 miles on my bike on a ride to Dallas Texas and back. It purred like a kitten there and back. It's got over 42K miles on it now and running great. I usually put around 7000 miles on my bike between changes. My clutch is still strong and not slipping (I weigh in at 300lbs). I have my valves adjusted regularly per maintenance recommendations. I feel confident to load up and head out in any direction at any time on my bike with minimal prep. Any oil that meets the standards outlined in the owners manual should serve you well. The only 50 weight Mobil 1 oils my local auto parts store will carry is for V-Twins. If the Rotela is cheaper I may try it next time I change.

Been using Rotella for 5 years on my TBA and 3 years on my Yami RSV
without any problems . I believe as long as you change your oil regularly its all good no matter what brand of oil you use . One thing tho ,we all know we are being gouged at the pumps for gas/ petrol ,so why are the oil manufacturers seemingly trust worthy with their claims of superior products . $20 for 4 ltrs rotella ,which is motorbike rated or 14 ish for 1 ltr of the other types . Seems like just another scam to me

since I started this hoorah, changed to RotellaT6 last oil change from the Castrol 10w50 the day before yesterday. Only a couple of hundred miles so far but smoother shifts and the ticking on start up that has been there since bike was new seems to have stopped. Time will tell but could tell immediate difference. Thanks for all comments.

Okay, I did a 3000 mile interval oil change on my 07 BA, with the rotella t6 5w40 with a mobil m1-108 filter. on my first ride after the change I noticed much improved clutch performance / cleaner shifting up & down the range. There is a tad more top end noise at idle, but nothing alarming at higher rpms. A heavier viscosity grade T6 (10w40) may be the ticket in reducing the top end noise, but I am loving the improved clutch/shifting response.

Pee will work if you can get the viscosity correct and keep it from boiling/evaporating. Can't beat the price and it's readily available... But on Pat's(Dinqua) recommendation several years ago, Rotella (now T6) 5-W-40 synthetic (also can't beat the price and readily available at Walmart) has kept the America from self destruction.