Dinquas instructions are very thorough. I printed them out to have on hand, and had no problems by following them to letter. The job looks tougher than it is until you get in there with the wrenches, then it all makes sense. The toughest part for me was getting my hand and the allen wrench in between the tire and the fender to loosen then tighten the airbox screws, but it was no big deal.
Take your time, and you'll do fine.
"Do I also need a Carb Tuner to complete this project?"
If you remove the AI, (which is a good idea) the left side is going to have much more draw than the right. A method to balance the carbs is advisable. Some have used home made balancers with great success.
"Idle is normal set at 850-1000?"
I prefer around 1000, for when the bike is a bit cold, it stays running better at 1000 at stop lights.
"If it is just the mains, and I drill out the airbox and use the Uni, will there be a need to make these adjustments?
And with one baffle out, how will this affect the air/fuel mixture as well?"
See Pat's jetting calculator for advice. I'm thinking three turns out on the carb adjuster screws is a good place to start.
The carbs on my 05 Speedmaster can be adjusted while in place and mounted up. I sprung the $20 for the D tool.
The screws that hold the bowls in place apparently have offered issues to some folks. Mine felt glued in with Loctite, but if you remove the bowl screws while the carbs are off, you should have no problems removing them with a short stout screwdriver and a firm hand. A screw driver with a mashed and wrung tip may offer problems. I used a flea market cheapo screw driver, but the tip was in good shape.
