Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Exhaust Drilling from front of Pipe?

Can you use the hole saw from the slip on side of the pipe? I would like to leave my stock taper. I have removed the rear baffle, and want more. The hole saw is on its way, but I dont want to cut the end of the pipe. Anyway has anyone done it?

I'm assuming you're talking about saving the tapered rear-end of Speedy pipes. I started doing that on a set of eeebay pipes recently. Its difficult, because the first thing in there at the header end is a narrowed section about 1" in diameter about 4 or 5 inches long. The problem I'm having is the remaining weld material on the baffle tubes is a little larger than 1". I got the one out of the first pipe, the second one is proving to be a real bear. If I ever get it out, I'm going to drill enough holes in baffle plates to chisel them out. I'm assuming that initial narrowed section is there for back pressure.

Yes I meant speedy pipes, just trying to do it without cutting the end off. So you were able to remove that narrowed portion? I drilled a number of small holes in the 1st baffle (from rear of pipe), and was able to chisel it into pieces to remove. But with such a small area to work in I cant drill or chisel the next one.

No, I didn't remove the narrowed piece. I currently have stock America pipes with 3 out of the 4 baffles removed. When I took out the third, noticed much more of a performance improvement. With my spare set, I was going to try removing header end baffle and the tail end baffle leaving 2 middle ones and see what happened. I think what really needs to happen is take all the baffles out, and replace with larger diameter baffle system. The stock baffles are only 1/2" tubes.

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The hole saw is on its way,

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Dill - the hole saw is not on the way - it could be if you send me your address. Please let me know or we'll send it on down the line.

Thanks.

Jeff

Dill this site might help you out with some of the questions you have about converting your stock speedy pipes.

Ian

http://members.bluefrog.com/~pwhitbec/Triumph/pipes0.html

Let us know how you get on, I want to either remove or add holes to the front baffles when I remove the pipes in favour of the standard ones for it's MOT in September.

I've been searching through the archives to see what I could find as I'm trying to do the same thing....keep the reverse cone ends on my stock Speedmaster pipes. Here's what Skillet did....

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I use modified stock SM pipes because I like the taper.
I only used a 3/4" rotary file in a drill to modify my SM pipes. The file cut into the tube at the rear and removed enough of it to wiggle it back and forth to remove the tube from the second plate. I used the rotary file to work down the endplate until right before I got into the chrome. I used a 6" and a 12" drill bit extention to drill a 3/4" hole in all the plates, beside the tubes. I wish I'd have knocked out all the plates except the front two, leaving the connecting tube intact. These plates are thin and the welds break free easily, so a good long chisel and hammer work great. But the SM pipes being tapered creates a challenge for removing the loose metal. Get lots of compliments on sound.
Ride Safe,
Dennis
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In the next week or so I'm taking my pipes over to a buddies house who does pipe mods on Honda VTXs as a hobby. He's got more tools than I'll ever dream about.

Just take the three out first and try it out. Then if you need to get the forth out. they tap right out with a long piece of whatever. I used a 3' 3/4 copper tube. I pounded the edge down like a chisel. It took very little to knock those baffles out. The fun was bending them to get them past that nub in the middle of the pipe, but you can put a small rod through the front and tap the baffles out the back, n.p.
If it's just that 4th baffle your cncerned about, just hit it from the front, it will break right out. No need to waste your time drilling.

Well I did my stock pipes today. Took a bit to figure out how to get past that end of the reverse cone, but finally managed to ham fist it. I drilled a series of holes around the inner pipe, and then cut between the holes with a dremel. Then I pried that inner pipe out of the way a bit until I had enough room to get my beater bar in there...which was a 1/2" round drill rod about 2 and half feet long that I had laying around. Picking up my 3lb sledge hammer I just beat that drill rod until I could pull out that first baffle/section of inner pipe. From then on it was a piece of cake just beating more holes though all the baffles. I flipped the pipe over and beat a few holes through the 4th baffle.

To finish off the end of the pipe, which now had rough edges from drilling and dremeling, I got a rotary file and smoothed it out in a nice even circle. Then I took some flat black BBQ paint and masked off the chrome and hit the very end of the tailpipe with the rattle can.

The pipes sound pretty good. Not as loud as the Epcos I had on, but they still have a nice deep tone and growl when you twist the throttle. Haven't taken it out for a spin yet, because I'm waiting for the paint to dry.