Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods Carbs Sync

Well this past weekend I went and made the nice cheap Carb. syncronizer. Last night I got to use it. About a 1 1/2 months ago I had the dealer rejet and sync the Carbs., so I thought. Well when I hooked up the one I made they were way off. So I proceeded to adjust them which was fairly easy. On my test ride boy was I surprized!, the bike seemed to be really smooth and it might have been my imagination but was peppier. The best thing about doing this was that I did it myself. As soon as my Carb. screw set arrives I'm going to check what jets I have, buy a couple of different sizes and then I'm going to remove the last baffel in my stock pipes. I will also try and modify the air box. Wish my luck.

Be very carefull with those S.S. Carb screws!!! They will eat the threads right out of the carb if your not carefull.
Put them in straight and don't be he-man on 'em.

Thanks for the heads up, I will be very careful.

Do you need a special tool to remove the main jet?

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Do you need a special tool to remove the main jet?

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Nah, a short screwdriver will do the trick. For the pilot jet you need a long and narrow screwdriver to get in the pilot hole.

long, narrow, and with a thin blade.

Just do the mains for now, you should be fine.
I put in 132's and have a lot of room still. 2 3/4 out for me well maybe more like 2 7/8.

Thats what I thought. Thanks Reid

While poking around the carbs I noted that the stainless allen screws were too long for the lids at the inside holes. They bottomed out with one lockwasher, and I had to use two to cinch the lids down tight.

Sure you are using the right ones? There are a couple different sizes I think, for the tops and then for the float bowls on the bottom.

No Problem. My next 'Lil upgrade was going to be TBS needles, so now you'll be one up on me. Let me know how it works out. The left carb rear inside screw is the hardest one if you leave the carbs on when you rejet. Other than that 1 darn screw, it's a piece of cake with the carbs left on.

The carby screws are M4x14 & M4x8.
The 8's should fit fine on top.

This weekend I tried to replace the screws in the Carbs.. Well on the right side one 3 of the screws came loose easily, the front left side will not unscrew. I'll need to remove the Carbs. I guess. Oh well, so much for an easy job.

Try needlenose vice grips

I had one also (right front outside) the darn phillips head stripped it was so stuck. I did like Phil says, needle nose vise grips, And whala.

A little valve grinding compound on the tip of the screw driver helps it grab better as well. Saved my butt a few times......
Make sure its not a worn tip screwdriver

That would be a good post how do you make one.

there is post here somewhere with photos. I used it to make one and it works good. lay a yard stick flat on the floor take 20' of clear 5/16" plastic tubing and mark it at 10'. tape the tubing at the 10' mark to the bottom of the yard stick then run the two legs of tubing up either side of the yard stick and tape to the top of the stick. you now have two clear tubes one on either edge of the yard stick with the remaining tubing hanging free from the top. now draw enough automatic trans. fluid to fill 3' of tubing.draw it through so it is about equal on both sides of the stick. now hang this unit from the top in your garage and let it stay over night. the next day the fluid will be free of air bubbles and equal on both sides(about 18"). remove the rubber plug on top of each carb and slip on an end of your tubing. now use the carb sync instructions on pat's carb web site

Did I read cheap carb snyc? Would like to know how do to it, I have more time than money so anything I can do myself gets my attention

Here's the cheapest you will find:

$1.55 Carb Synchronizer

Definitely find something to restrict the tubes though. I tried this and my carbs were so out of sync, it sucked all the fluid out of the tubes in a heartbeat. I had used ATF so it smoked like crazy!

I now own a Morgan.

Thanks, will try to make this soon. With my luck I will use two cycle oil as weird oil in the carb is not a good thing.

Homemade synchronizer worked great for me, but has a few quirks. As fluid is drawn up one side, you turn screw to balance carbs. That's fine, except when they are balanced, fluid is still not even in tubes. So, turn screw the other way to draw it back down, back and forth like that a little at a time til perfect. Or, kill engine every time and wait for fluid to settle back down evenly. I used 25' of tubing so drawing it into carbs wasn't a problem. Plenty of time to kill it if they were way off.
Also, don't forget to elevate idle a little while synchronizing.

I used Sta-bil, fuel stabilizer, it's dark red so it's easy to see, plus if it gets sucked into the carbs it doesn't matter. It will make the bike smoke a little and smell funny, but it won't hurt anything.

The TBS needles are good, but the Thruxton needles might be better. While you're ordering needles, you may as well get both sets. Each pair should run you less than $15.

I ordered Snap-On screw driver #SDD306 for about $10 including shipping per Dinqua and, like he said, it fits perfectly for the recessed pilot jet as well as for the main jet.

A $10 screw driver is certainly not the most inexpensive screw driver, but I shudder to think of the string of explicatives I would scream if I woopsied something inside a carb.