Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods WiseCo 900 kit

Hi,
I've looked at Dinqua's website, and read about the 900 kit.

Has anyone got any feedback on this once it's fitted?

Especially in the UK, as I've just seen that Norman Hyde will fit it?

Cheers

Steve

So far, all I've heard about those has been positive. There is one "gotcha" though, but it applies equally to any cylinder work. Don't fool with the carburettors beyond minor tuning untill the engine has been fully run in. If you start experimenting and end up with a very rich mixture early on, the excess petrol will coat the cylinderwalls with a 'glaze' and prevent the rings from seating properly.
Oh, there is one other thing. From what I hear, after a few thousand miles of hanging on for dear life, your forarms will become so muscular you will start having problems getting thenm into your shirt sleaves.

Don't fool with the carburettors beyond minor tuning untill the engine has been fully run in. If you start experimenting and end up with a very rich mixture early on, the excess petrol will coat the cylinderwalls with a 'glaze' and prevent the rings from seating properly.

Less of a problem if you use the hard break in method . You should also use pure mineral or semisynth oil.

I've always thought that breaking-in an engine too easy would result in a ridge
in the cylinder walls from the pistons/rings not extending to their fullest.

But, what the heck do I know anyway?

That's an interesting site.

Charlie

Excessively rich mixtures wash the cylinder walls of lubricating oil, thereby promoting premature wear - not "glazing".

Cylinger ridges come from very long running time, usually in softer metal blocks, such as Chevrolet V-8's. Air cooled VW flat 4's would get this condition, too.

The "hard break-in" method is a viable one, but the key to using it is to back off the throttle long enough to let the engine cool down. Since the rings are new, when they get hot, the ring end gap can close, with the ends butting, and cause severe ring failure or even engine seizing!!

Using too-slick oil, such as synthetics, or regular oil with friction reducers added, can delay or even thwart, proper break-in. What happens is that the normal wear that goes on between the rings and cylinder walls is inhibited. (Early water cooled VW's and Audis, c. 1974, had both hard cylinder block iron and hard rings. Some of those engines never did get broken-in!)

I'm still a fan of using single weight oil, especially a low detergent one, for break-in. Change it and the filter after a few hundred miles and use a quality oil from then on.

REMEMBER: Multi-vis oils tend to seek the lower viscocity rating early on, and IMHO, should be avoided. Disclosure: I've been know to use 10W-40 and 20W-50 in my cars. For bike use, though, I really like the Shell Rotella T diesel formula, in either regular or synthetic version. And yes, Rotella T is a multi-vis. Whaddya gonna do?

Since the Wiseco kit has a cast iron sleeve, it's absolutely OK to use a non-synthetic oil!

G'day Matt, er, mate, er....

Anyway, the oil requirement concerning the clutch is that the oil not have friction reducers, which would cause the clutch to slip when it's not supposed to.

The synthetic stipulation is there to protect the aluminum bore, as that type oil better handles high heat without losing its lubing ability.

Remember, stock engines are designed to run very hot, as a concession to meeting smog specs. That heat is hard on everything, especially the oil.

Fortunately, guys make various mods to their engines, especially carb jetting (richer), which helps cut down on total heat. When that's done, the stress on the oil is lowered.

Thanks for your comments, Matt!

Quote:

---

The synthetic stipulation is there to protect the aluminum bore

---

Papadean, what about the Cams and Crank, which ride directly in the aluminium that the head and crank are milled from, without any kind of replaceable journals. Wouldn't it still be better to run synthetic since the heat from the piston and upper end is transmitted (somewhat)to the lower end (not to mention the cams sit at the highest point in the engine so heat from combustion rises to that area) to prevent premature wear of these journals?