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Ignition Coil T1290046 (Supercedes T1310008)

Maybe the old part number had something to do with the bad batches of coils? Anyway, OK, What is it with prices? Seems that the infamous H.O.P. wants $125 for one and Cycle Riders of Longwood wants $122.99 while Big4Cycle wants $165.75! Freewheeling, Team Triumph, Great Bay, and Palm Beach Triumph are all closed on Mondays....

So I call back Big4Cycle and ask them what is up? They counter with $129.00 shipped. So again I'll need to start shopping around and not rely on Big4Cycle for the best price. Catalog items are one thing, but non-catalog item prices can swing without any check and balances, UNLESS we call around. An uneducated consumer is a dealers best friend?

Well leave it to H.O.P. to say that the superceded part number was blah blah blah. After reviewing the micro-fiche, it turns out the part number T1310008 is the part number for the starter solenoid.

I had a coil go bad on my 02 BA. Triumph covered it under warranty although the bike is 21/2 years old. Actually the bike was manufactured in 01. Check with dealer an it might be under warranty an save you $120.00 or more. Dealer told me coil was $120.00 if I had to pay for it.

Hi Stash, What were the symptoms of the coil failure in your case? The dealers in my area are, well I would rather have a tooth pulled. Had my ignitor been bad, I would, but for a coil, I am going to buy one and may mail off the defective ignition coil to Triumph's headquarters in Newnan, with a cover letter.

moe,
You can have your coil tested if you think it is bad. They are rarely intermittent as they are basicallt just a coil of wire. They use a ring tester to check for proper inductive reactance(XL). I used to have one and used it for transformers all the time.

Hi Pat, you wrote in the archives:

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A defective coil is pretty hard to detect without a nice electronic "ringer". A regular ohmmeter may work with certain problems, but a ringer will actually check the conductivity and effectiveness of a coil under a loaded condition. An ohmmeter can tell you if it's just open or shorted though, not an intermittent state as others are reporting.

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So far I have not been able to locate anyone that can conduct a load test on the coil. I have tried the Hardley dealership, a local alternator repair shop, Steve's cycles, some auto parts stores etc. You got any ideas?

Greybeard wrote,

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Symptoms of a weak spark are pretty consistant. At higher speeds, the iron core of the coil will have less time to reach magnetic saturation between sparks, so the spark will get weaker with speed.

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Vera has issues at 4K rpms. Like she hits the rev limiter, although member tcvance put my ignitor on his ride with no problems.

So, I have ordered a new ignition coil and will play the "remove tank replace tank" game.

Chy wrote,

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...problem sounds more like air intrusion and it may be at the rubber boots between the carbs and cylinder head. Let it idle and spray that area with something like WD40 or carb cleaner, if the idle changes while you’re spraying, you have an air leak. Some of the folks here have had problems with that area leaking air, either at the intake manifold or the rubber boots themselves.

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I've looked for vacuum leaks but will try one last time while holding a can of carb cleaner or WD-40. I'll even as chy suggested,

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Try this... Let the bike idle and take a piece of hose ( maybe a 2 or 3 foot section of garden hose or something similar), hold one end to your ear and while keeping the hose as straight as possible, move the other end around all your exhaust connections, if you have a leak anywhere you should be able to hear it.

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I really think it is an electrical problem, because of what Greybeard said a while back,

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In the case of a failing coil or other ignition problem, the symptoms will be tied to operating conditions and/or temperature. If it is fuel flow, it will be tied to running time/fuel usage.

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Vera's condition appears to be tied to operating conditions...


The Archives are a great resource!

Does anybody know the resistance offhand on the stock BA/SM coils?

From the archives:
Tbone wrote:

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After testing the coils [600ohms cold and 780 ohms hot as per specs], nothing to loose, and out of ideas, they changed both coils, mechanic happy after doing test runs, and a whole month later I get my ride back, 1st August racehorse birthday.

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Bob Wrote:

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These inductive pickup systems are common on bikes but, as an added point, they are found as both single or dual pulse systems. Our TBAs are SINGLE pulse systems. Ride on.

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You know those cheap neon timing lights they have in the bargain bin at the autoparts store for $2 - $5? They are useless for adjusting timing except maybe on a pre 1954 Chevy parked in a mineshaft, but they are a really good tool for sorting out ignition problems. Hook it up to one sparkplug, tape or tie it where you can see it, and take a look when your bike starts acting up. There are several things that it will tell you about.

1. Light still flashes at the proper rate, but gets brighter:
Sure indication of a sparkplug fouling or shorting.
2. Light dims as engine speed increases:
Either a bad sparkplug or weak coil. Or, the dwell angle (breakerpoint ignition) is too small, which is caused by a worn breaker cam or exessive point gap.
3. Spark gets erratic or stops:
Really bad sparkplug, plug wire or coil shorting when hot, bad ignition module, loose wiring.

Hi Greybeard,

"But God hath chosen the foolish things of the world
to confound the wise..." First Corinthians 1:27

I did hook up an old Sears Penske timing light only to not be able to read it! It flashed but at the 4Krpm of the problem all I got was almost a steady light on. Either side too. No difference in intensity. At idle, the flash rates were somewhat odd though. Maybe due to the wasted spark principle? I'll look in the cheap parts bin for the cheapo light and try that. I replaced the plugs. Redid the elctrical connections to the battery and the coils using dielectric grease replaced the vacuum rubbers, checked the gas, drank a beer and mowed the lawn. Oh well.

Now tell me if I am over-educated please, as from some on-line research, I am concerned that of the four parts of the ignition system: Trigger coil, Source coil, Ignition coil and ignitor, one of these is bad. Do we have all of these components?

I put my ignitor on Tom's bike and Tom's bike ran fine.
I've got an ignition coil on order. If that doesn't fix it I'll take a new spark plug and bend the side electrode out straight, solder a small clamp on the side, clamp it to the cylinder head and hook up the spark plug cap. Crank the engine and observe the spark. Still twarted in my repair attempts I'll tape a cheap neon timing light to my handlebars and go for a ride. Look at the light. If the light looks bright and steady when the misfire occurs, then the problem is in carburetion. If it goes out when the misfire occurs, then the problem is with the ignition.
Then to test/replace the Trigger coil
Then to test/replace the Source Coil.

I got the verbage from a website that discusses such issues. Dan's Motorcycle "Electronic ignition"

Mike (mikemm03)had a similiar problem and they replaced his ignition pick-up coil (that would be the Trigger coil?). Ran great after that, then it happened again. I look at the microfiches and cannot locate the ignition pick-up coil. I'll look in the service manual as I believe it to be behind the alternator cover. I also believe that the Source coil too lurks behind that cover as well.

Frustrating problem. Kinda makes me long for the points and capacitor days of old... What is really frustrating is having to wait for parts. NO ONE has anything in stock. No One...

Moe,

Call Bob down at West Palm Triumph. I am sure he would be happy to give you some advise or guidance or get one of the mechanics to talk to you. They might have seen this problem in the past and know what the problem is.

Tom

Hi Tom,

I just got off the phone with Bob. Wow. I wish I had a dealer like that in Brevard County! He answered what he could then gave the phone to Rich, one of his mechanics! They both seemed to think it is a coil but said that the Trigger coil or the Source Coil may fail but usually only when they get hot. And those components are on the right side of the motor behind the alternator cover. "Follow the yellow brick road, err wires". So thanks for the tip. Both Bob and Rich remember Nobby too! Seems like he made quite an impression.

PS: I tried to order the coil through Jeff, but he is working... Spoke to Ann who sounded a bit under the weather.

Ride safe,
Moe

Moe,

Jeff won't be back in town until the 25th. Let me know if replacing the coil(s) works.

A good dealer will talk to you about problems and possible ways to correct them. They aren't worried about making a dime up front. They know good customer care will bring you back. Unfortunately the dealers in central Florida haven't figured that out yet.

Tom

Vera Update
Bad Ignition Coil, Left Side.
Replaced with new coil today and she is fine.

Happy Easter weekend to all.

By now I hope you have your bike fixed. When I had the problem my bike would start an run but when I gave it gas it would not take it an just die. Also remove the plug an lay it on engine to see how much spark you are receiving. If there is not much of a spark than more than likely it is the coil. Why spend the money for a coil if you can get it to dealer they will give you a new coil. I had to drive 31/2 hours one way to dealer but I guess it was worth it since coil was free.

Moe, glad to hear that new coil done the job. I figured that was the problem. I feel like Triumph has a problem here an hope they take care of it. I read where an 04 only a few months old had to have both coils replaced even though it was covered under warranty.

Update: Vera's problem was on the fuel side. The right main jet had a 2mm square
piece of paper towel or cotton obstructing the jet.

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