Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech CLUTCH REPLACEMENT -- '03 Speedy

Hiya, folks! It's been a long time!

So I'm getting ready to do the clutch on my '03 Speedy this weekend. Reading along in my trusty shop manual I see that I'm supposed to get a "clutch tool."

I've seen a few threads on here saying "you don't need it if you have an older model," but like I said, she's an '03...

Anybody have experience doing this with or without the tool on the same year (or earlier)? I REEEEALLY don't want to drop the $70 for a gizmo I'll only ever use once, especially if it's not critical. That said, I want to do this right.

Suggestions? Thoughts? (Anybody in the DC Metro area have one I could borrow if needed?)

--Jaeger

I've had mine out twice. Never had a tool and have had no problems. Getting the springs compressed to get the bolts in may take a little force but nothing an average guy can't handle. Put your bike in first gear and have someone hold the rear brake.

Thanks! I stopped by my local dealer and they said yes, I'll need it -- but they're also interested in selling me one, so I gotta question their honesty.

I think I'm going to take my chances and see if I can get it to work -- I need to read through the manual one more time and look over some videos that hopefully have suggestions. Thankfully I have a buddy who's a much better wrench than I am coming over to help.

Thanks!

--Jaeger

I can change our clutch packs and springs without "The Tool",sounds like marketing to me. When you go back together, just make sure as you wind the stay bolts in, the throwout rod stays unbound. I have just got to get a look at one of these indispensable tools, to see what I'm missing here.

no need for the tool here either, replaced all clutch plates and springs

Well, I can confirm that the magical clutch gizmo is NOT required for installing a new clutch. It might make it a bit easier, but I'd just as soon save the $70.

That isn't where I'm screwed. :P

In the process of trying to get the clutch cover back on (for the second time) the #$%%^&* crank-case-breather tube broke. Right at the base, where it meets the press-fit bit on the outer case case. Nice and smooth and impossible to "grab."


[EXPLETIVES REDACTED]


So... we're exploring ideas on how to patch it-- spicing it together with JB Weld and tubing. It's not under pressure or subject to being super-super hot, it's just the crank-case hose. It's just a low-pressure vent... right?

We can't figure out how to detatch it from the clutch-cover, and I don't really feel like selling my first-born for a whole new case. I'm already trying to keep this on a serious budget. The factory shop manual doesn't describe how to remove either. Eek.

Suggestions? If we kludge this thing, am I going to unwittingly grenade myself? It's going to be a PITA to get this thing spliced, but it looks like it's just a friggin' tube.

--Jaeger

You will have to do some serious degreasing and cleaning to get any king of glue to adhere. Petroleum products tend to soak into the pores of metals, specially heated ones. Use the hottest solvent you can lay your hands on and be patient and thorough. I would go with an epoxy type like Dev-Con or JB. It's just a vent tube, just like you said, but you don't want it coming loose in there.

Aluminum is especially pourous and really soaks up the oil too. If I could see what you are working with I may have an idea or 2.

UPDATE: JB Weld is set, seems to be holding nicely. The tube itself is not obstructed -- I can blow into it freely.

I have some pix, I just need to get them up in the cloud somewhere. I'll post them when I can. It ain't pretty, but it should be perfectly functional.

We de-greased the hell out of it. Between that and the tiny little flange we put on, it looks like the JB had ample purchase on the aluminum.

The plan now is to let the JB cure for the rest of the day. We'll figure out a time this week for my buddy (the guy who actually knows what he's doing) to come back over and help reassemble.

--Jaeger

I nipped the heads off 8, 6mm cheap bolts, so when I pull or install either of the covers, first I wind out some of the bolts, up, down, left and right and hand thread in, my made up alignment pins. Now the covers effortlessly go on and off straight and even, and the new gasket has something to hang on, too. Start the rest of the staybolts, hand tight, wind out the pins, replace and begin your star pattern torque up.

For your viewing pleasure: https://goo.gl/photos/yQdLT2VqV4JPvnoa9

It aint' pretty, but it should hopefully never see the light of day again -- at least not in my garage.

--Jaeger

I was interested in seeing it since I was thinking you could bore the hole slightly over size and put a collar in it to accept the breather tube.