Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech irrational power loss

I thought you meant the original CDI, so you got a new CDI from Procom on Wednesday and its already there and installed? Everything worked fine for a day? It ran on both cylinders, had power etc. If so don't mess with anything until you call Procom. The CDI did not burn out your ignition coils if it all worked fine for a day.

Are all of your connections tight? Also simple things like the gas is on, gas is in the tank, vent tube is not crimped from tank being off then put back on.

Primum non nocere?

Oh the oil was wet clutch bike specific. The Lucas additive was a suggestion from a hear head friend. Won't do that again. But I'm going to do a quick test on the electric today. If that doesn't work I guess I'll have to open the crank case and take a look at the boss.

In English please

Yeah checked all the basics. The only excessive mod I did was drilling out the back silencer baffles. I got a little over zealous in trying to figure out my problems. Sounds nice though when running. Still has it inners. So maybe a lack of compression. Oh not sure if I mentioned when it was running, post new cdi, it had trouble at the bottom end of the gear but when the rpms got higher it ran smooth. The bottom end actedlike when you aren't giving enough gas in first gear start off. Like a lurching. Behaved that way at the bottom of all 5 gears.

Hey. Just looking around the net for other safe start reinforcements. But can't find anything beside the one at ttp and a few home made solutions. Can you direct me to other safe start company/distributors. I want to do price comparison.

If you looked at TTP you did your comparison. Do not use throttle when starting. Also you may need to adjust the pilot screws to start if you are starving for fuel off of idle, may even need a larger pilot jet. Is the intake stock?

There is too much going on here for me, I am getting lost. I am thinking at this point he needs to know if he broke that boss. If the bike started several times with the new CDI there really is no logical reason it won't start now. As the old one broke down when hot is the old available to try to start the bike. If the starter is just whirring thats bad, if the bike is turning over but not starting that is good.

It does sound like the CDI is set a little wrong with the bad performance at early throttle.

Okay, I guess that I will wade into this mess. First, since you messed with the evap system I would make sure that you did not pinch the the vent hoses on the "T" fittings between the carbs. I pinched mine when I rerouted them after removing my airbox and it gave me power loss type systems, like the bike was running out of gas when I rolled on the throttle.I would also ditch the the tip over valve for good measure, you can always reinstall it later if you determine that it is not a problem. When my cdi went bad I had intermittent loss of the left cylinder and only the left cylander, it did not change sides when coils and wires were swapped. I replaced mine with a Procom as the Firestarter was not available at the time. The Procom has a lot of mixed reviews such as bike seems to run like before, bike runs ok but takes a while to warm up, to problems with cold starts, to bike will start but not run right, to bike won't start at all, etc. I have never seen a stellar review of a Procom and I have read of multiple accounts of people getting bad ones. So IF your Procom is bad as well as your stock one you're not going to know.

The Procom I put on Wendys bike worked OK but when I first got it and installed it the bike would not start. I beat my brains out trying to figure out why. The Procom came with one pin bent over preventing spark.

When the boss on mine broke it jammed right up,no turning over at all.

So to catch up with y'all. Dogg33, the procom I got had 1 pin bent I noticed it at install. I straightened it out it started, the main issue after that start was real poor bottom end like there wasn't enough rpm for the bottom of the gear this was from engine cold all the way to fill operating temp. After riding about 20 miles. I got off to do an errand when I went to restart had difficulty. Whole lot cranking but no turn over without persistence, messing with choke and fuel mix. I don't believe there's any pinch involved with the t valve setup atleasy not that I can see. I've been curious about the tip over valve how would I go about removal? And do I need to dummy jump that system ( cross wires )?

Oh and would a standard universal single outlet ignition coil be ok to use in the interim of of orderi g higher quality coil. I don't quite have the loot to cover 80$ coils at the moment but need her running.

Yeah the wires seem ok. The insulation and boots aren't worn or cracked. I just don't have the money to but oem/aftermarket specific coils. That's why I was asking about universal ones those I can did 25$ a piece. Just wanted to know if they are actually gonna work. I need her back running as my job is an hour and a half away. That's why I got her to save on a gas 4 gal in the bike brings me to and from 2 days in a run where 4 gal in my car gets me there 1 day. Hence why I also need a cheap fix so I can actually get moving and have money to save.

So I put the old cdi back on and she fired up she is getting spark. My next test I put the new procom cdi back on and test each setting starting at 0 until she started. Instead of manufacturer suggestion being 4 it started at 6. To be sure I ran all the way through and checked all settings. Put it back to 6 and yep started. So I put the bike back together ( had cdi in bolted and hanging down ) to see if it was still having the bottom end issue in the gears ( being sluggish until the rpms got higher ) backed out of the garage turned the key hit the button and cranking but no fire again. Too late to do more tomorrow I'm gonna open up the wiring cluster to see if there's a bad wire.

I used setting 6 too.

Hey about the tip over valve is there anything special I need to do to remove it?

Just take it out of its inline position in the hose and replace it with a plastic vacuum line splice. That sucker stranded me for a couple of hours, atop a mountain pass in a snowstorm, I say, sh!tcan it. If you can't hit the kill switch after a spill, then it probably doesn't matter anyway.

Just so I understand right. Vacuum line splice= run the vent line to the t line the valve connected to on the carbs. Correct?

I think you are not correct but I find your sentence a little confusing.

Find where the continuous hose is interrupted by the tip over valve, remove said valve , rejoin the hose with a plastic hose union/double hose barb, some people call them dummies because they are male on both ends of the fitting. Get the fitting at any auto parts store, usually in a bubble pack and you will find small plastic hose fittings for rubber vacuum hoses, the straight thru unobstructed one of the proper diameter to fit the ID of the hose is what you seek to eliminate the valve and remarry the line. They are sized by the shank of the hose barb, not the larger appendage on the end. Did I leave anything out?

No that makes sense. And finally got her running. After I replaced the bad cdi. And doing numerous unnecessary tests. I also had 2 foaled plugs and a bad mix on my carbs. But got her put back together and running then took her out for a test run after a good 5 minute warm up. Ran through the gears with no lurching. Thanks for all your help. This place is a god send. Can't wait to get on her in the morning for my ride to work.

Good on ya, we hope the bike gives you some pleasant and uneventful transportation for a good while.