Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech Valve Adjustments

I'm creating a post in the Vault about valve adjustments here. Any of you who have experience with this, please review my post and make suggestions. In the coming weeks I'll be testing out this information as I adjust my valves for the first time. The information that seems to be a little light is removal of the camshafts, swapping out the shims and reinstalling the camshafts. Checking the clearances is cake simple (I used to own many air-cooled VWs but THEY had adjusters built-in to the rocker arms - none of this shim nonsense).

One question that initially comes to mind is number of shims. Can you stack shims or do you need to have just one shim that is the correct size?

Nope, can't stack 'em.. they are actually pretty thick and adjustments usually are small maybe .002 or .003 mm

What is a backlash gear?

In the manual it looks like the gear on the end of the camshaft.

The camshaft gear is actually 2 gears with a spring in between the two. It helps keep a more consistent pressure on the cam chain as the lobes of the cam depress then release the valves. Both gears have a hole that is easily accesible when the timing marks are lined up. Before removing the camshaft(s) you must insert the tool or a tool through these holes to prevent the preload spring from losing it's tension. If that happens then there is another tool to reload the spring pressure.
Page 1.11 in my manual has a pic of the T3880330 tool they recommend using.(dated 2001) It also has a very good step by step procedure for the whole process... I was fairly impressed.
Also,the manual says to remove the right side cover to align the timing marks and rotate the engine but that is not necessary. You can check all the valves by rotating the engine with the starter till the lobes of the camshaft are in the proper position.(Like we do on every other engine) Once you have your readings just align the timing marks on the cam and drive gears, install the backlash gear retaining tools then remove the cams to install the correct shims.

I'm going to suggest that you ask Pat (Dinqua) about the process, that is if he doesn't jump in soon and hold forth on yet another of his areas of expertise.

I was at his place a few days ago and he did mine and once you see someone do it, the process is, as was said, nuts and bolts. And the cool part is, apparently it works well with or without beer.

BB

Chy,

Quote:

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You can check all the valves by rotating the engine with the starter till the lobes of the camshaft are in the proper position.(Like we do on every other engine)

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I almost used this technique a couple of weeks ago. Chickened out though. I used to remove the spark plugs, but for the most recent job, I simple loosened them up, leaving them in the hole(s).

General Notes:
My oil crossover tube only uses 2 copper/brass washers, one at each banjo bolt. At 44700 miles I have not yet replaced the cam cover gasket. I have replaced the cam cover rubberized bolt washers, although I had not a problem with them leaking. Remove the cam cover to the right of the bike. I remove my ignitor and remove the spark plug wires as prep for removing the cam cover.

Hey...cool,

I know how the rotating the engine thing works since I got to be the helper on my own valve job last week. Put the bike up on the lift and you get a guy like Pat to stare at the lobes from the side. Then every once in a while he'll say things like "more", or "a little more" or "great...all the way around again" or "back it up again" to a guy like ME sitting on stool in the back of the bike turning the wheel around with the bike in fifth gear. Easy...

BB

I kinda figured I'd use the back wheel to turn the engine over. Used to do that on VWs. It was easier than having to get up and use a socket on the crank pulley (although less exact because at the pulley I could dial-in TDC).

I'll be incorporating a lot of this info in the tech vault soon. Keep it coming. THX.

Yes, turn the rear wheel in a higher gear. Put a screwdriver down the spark plug hole of the side you are working on and when you see maximum rise on the screwdriver and if intake and exhuast valves are loose you are at TDC. I do this on my BMW which is harder since the jugs are sideways and the screwdriver doesn't retract when you've gone too far.

The service manual has a photo of the camshafts at TDC.

Positioning the camshafts thusly and double checking that ya have the dots and dashes corralled are all ya need to position the camshafts for valve adjustment procedures.

Please note that moe tied up the wire harnesses. Makes it MUCH easier to remove and install the cam cover...

What a PITA.....Had a POS Suzuki GS1100, same thing, hated it....