Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech front wheel removal

Help me out folks. I am needing to remove the front wheel for service interval things like fork oil, fork spring swap and cleaning the fork lowers. What do you use for a 12mm hex tool to remove the spindle bolt?
My Hex bit & Allen tools only go up to 10mm & a quick search does not show a 12mm bit. Tried 2 nuts on a bolt and it just spins. Welded the nut to the bolt and just sheared the bolt
Do I need a "specialty" tool, did gorilla Gus tighten the thing to ridiculous tightness on the last service or am I overlooking the obvious?

IIRC, Loosen the two allen pinch bolts on the right (Alternator side) spread the fork end SLIGHTLY with a flat blade screwdriver and leave the pinch bolts tight on the other to get the axle capture end off, then loosen the other side and you can fish the axle out, but maybe also go to Sears or your local Tools, Tools, Tools store and buy a 1/2" Dr. allen to fit. Not bragging, but I have a 1/2-3/4" drive allen set up to 36 mm from being a turbine mechanic, bigger ones, the powerhouse provided. So I assure you 12 mm allen wrenches do exist.

There is a set here. I bought a set off of Ebay in a case. I was using a bolt that I bent as a wrench.

I have looked on line today and 12mm Hex bits can be found on Amazon & ebay. Guess I'll order one and go on to other things while waiting for delivery.
If I had a long bolt the right size I would try bending it for a tool. Ran to WallyWorld & my preferred home improvement store last night, also checked at 2 auto parts places. All the tool selections for Hex bits & Allen wrenches stopped at 10mm. Checked Sears on line today and the same.
*I did try loosening the pinch bolts but made no difference. Both my manuals say to remove the spindle bolt and then loosen the pinch bolts.

If you leave the pinch bolts tight you can remove the axle bolt without holding the other side.

Listen to Ian, if you leave the pinchers tight on one side you negate the need for a wrench on the secured side, and by leaving a flatblade in as a spreader wedge to release the tension on the other side fork, all you have left to overcome is the torque applied to the end cap. Personal confession: I flunked every damn english class I ever took, so I am doing my best to communicate here. Oh, and put anti seize on every thing you will ever take apart in the future unless it calls for loctite and the next time it's easier.

Update, front wheel is off.
Harbor Freight had a set of 9 Hex bits with 12, 14 & 17mm bits. Went ahead and grabbed the similarly priced 25" breaker bar (overkill for this but will need to get at the steering stem nut). While I have never been impressed with the quality of their tools the price for something I'm only going to use a couple of times is right. Harbor Freight to the rescue once again.
Spindle bolt loosened with a bit of pressure. Holding the axle itself was not an issue, removing the bolt from the end was. That job is now done.

I have a set of factory wrenches for the fork preload and jam nut if you need to borrow. You pay the freight

I have a few of the Pittsburgh tools they sell now, just bought a long swivel head 3/8" drive ratchet that seems as good quality as Snap on or the Cornwell one I have or the MAC one I have and was only $24 and lifetime warranty. I have quite a few things from Harbor Freight that are surprisingly good quality and have lasted years so far, I have also purchased other things from them that are junk. I loved the MIG welder I got from them, lasted me 11 years and can't find one like it for less than about $3,000 and I got that one for $150. It was Russian made and very robust. I replaced it with a computerized Italian one that so far I really am not happy with for $400.

Not much pressure on the fork caps, you can easily hold them with your hand, just be sure the bike isn't sitting on the front wheel when you remove them.

Wow, just convinced me I should not mess with this.

needing a front tire. wondering if I could do it, sounds like, no.

simple job

Agreed, once I had the 12mm bit, the front wheel removal was easy. I do have the 19mm axle tool also but figured it was only needed for installation. Did not need it for removal.
Now the hard work begins for me. Messing with fork oil (getting the proper level back in) and scrubbing, buffing or polishing the fork lowers.

A while back, someone recommended I use a spark plug socket reversed. Just run a 3 inch extension thru the socket. Works great.

Make one of these for setting fork oil height. Super easy.

if you jack the front wheel off the ground,fork caps aren,t a drama to remove ... i smeared a bit of grease on the thread when i reassembled it as i reckon that thread might be pretty easy to cross thread .. just my thought thou.