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I was in the alignment business for a good while and I burnt some time into just how well the front tires on my bikes were centered (same center line of track) with the rears and both were close enough not to fool with although I did have to shim out the front primary sprocket on my 06 65 thou to get a good marriage with the rear. If you want to check yours, remember, your bike must stand perfectly plumb, and your handlebars must must be tied perfectly straight, both of which is harder than it sounds. I replaced the tank bolt with a (8mm?)eyebolt and rigged that to my overhead hoist, then attached two knee brace lines to the same eye that went to the floor 3 feet to the left and right for stability. Now, take a look at the frame, where do you ascertain level (plumb) from? One likely spot didn't completely jibe with another, so I ended up going with a adjusted consensus from three readings on that. After I was happy, just for sh!ts and giggles I removed the valve cover and put my Starrett 98 on the engine itself and decided that another differing opinion of straight up and down was too much. You can tie up the steering a number of ways, but it must be adjustable and static. After all this, now you can ascertain whether your front and back are on the same centerline, with a string, or I have two hand picked drywall straight edges I use for various things, when my 48" ground straightedge won't reach. Conclusion, retired people have too much time on their hands when it has been raining for a month straight in January.

I forgot, another check is to see if your front and rear rims are in the same vertical plane, check that after you are satisfied the bike is standing plumb and forks are straight. And if they aren't, it will take some corrective surgery to adjust that.





Wholly crap man don't do it!!! Life is to short!



It might be reasonable if you are going to the Salt Flats and go 200 MPH or something like that.