Go to a feed store... they have vet supplies. Get a LARGE (but inexpensive syringe. Put a small clear hose in the syringe end and GLUE IT WITH SUPERGLUE... If you don't it will blow off and you will wet your bike with brake fluid. Both DOT 3 and DOT 4 are excellent paint removers. Get a 1/4" piece of clear hose; about 2" will do and put it OVER the thinner piece of clear hose. GLUE IT. OK, now to bleed.
DO NOT USE SPEEDBLEEDERS; they have a one way check valve.
Get a bottle of brake fluid and pull it into the syringe by pulling out the plunger. Put the 1/4" hose piece over the open bleed valve. If the system is completely empty, no problems but if the system already has brake fluid be aware that you should open the bleeder with the 1/4" hose already on the bleeder as the system has some pressure in it and the bleed valve will weep (drool brake fluid). You may want to use some teflon tape to seal the bottom of the bleed valve while it is loose... they will leak there under pressure using this method. If you retain the bleed valves after bleeding, you can just leave the teflon tape in place.
The cap on your master cylinder should be off. With the bleed valve open, push the plunger on the syringe in and this forces brake fluid WITHOUT ANY AIR BUBBLES through the caliper and brake line and then into the master cylinder. This method ensures you don't have to sit there pumping a brake handle till you get blue in the face.
You can install speed bleeders at this point and they will work as advertised. They have a red fluid sealing goo on them and that stuff works better than teflon tape which tends to goo up in brake fluid. The syringe method of pushing brake fluid through a system works better than any variety of pumps... I do a lot of vintage stuff and work with dry systems that have been rebuilt and recommend it.
