And now for the q: many of you knew was coming....
How hard and how much work is changing rear brake pads on a 2009 America for a guy w/ a modest garage and tool set, but has changed brake pads before on other bikes, e.g., Moto Guzzis and Viragos?
It looks like flip the assembly out of the way, pull some clips, swap the pads one at a time, replace the assembly, done.