Paul,
Thanks for the remarks. The pix are all sort of mixed up for now but I'll get it sorted in a bit.
As far as the shims, this is the very first time I pulled the camshafts or even checked the valves. This is at 12k miles as well. I was very happy to see the vast majority of them were dead nuts in the middle of the specs. The only two that are out are both tight too, one by 0.026 and the other by 0.051 (when compared to the others). I did some math and came up with the new values needed, something like a 2.825 and a 2.875 should get all of them to be exactly the same and right in the middle of the specs.
If you got your valve caps off with a cheap torx bit, I say good for you. Everyone I spoke with said this was a critical tool to use. I couldn't believe how tight mine were on. I had to rig up a long breaker bar to pop them suckers loose. Oh, and the cam chain tension guide blades (now that's a name for a part eeh?) use the same 30 torx and they were also really snug.
I would rather spend the $7 and be sure I have a good tip, it is really hard and sharp and didn't even think about slipping at all, even with the extreme torque needed to loosen them suckers up.
Now I need to order a crapload of O-rings, washers and 2 shims from my dealer. I figure my butt will be sore after they tell me how much the Trump parts are. This is where the excel sheet will come in real handy. I will do some looking for all the washers as I know even the stupid little oil drain plug one is about $4 but something like a Honda one is about 35¢. Same friggin part, just a simple copper washer. There are a lot of them needed with all the oil lines disconnected. I need to install my SS brake lines too and I'm sure they are the same thing going on there too. Lots of them appear to be the same sizes too, maybe a pack of 5-10 from a hardware store will suffice? Hmmm.
Bring lots of beer in May, I'll be thirsty. I'll even share it with ya.
