I first saw an ad for Classic Bike Provence at least 10 years ago in Classic Bike Magazine.
http://www.classicbikeprovence.com/ It seemed like a wonderful idea, bike touring on vintage brit bikes in the south of France, so it went in my “someday” file. Every once in a while I would look at their web site and think “some day”. So this year, I decided to go through with it. I laid out a plan for my wife Claire that involved a week in Paris over her birthday, scooting down to Provence on the TGV, a few days there, and, oh yeah… my bike tour.
The week in Paris was great and after a few days in Provence Claire headed home and I linked up with Classic Bike Provence for a three day tour. The owners of CBP, Neil and Sarah Thomas, are just about perfect to play the part. Sarah runs the business, and Neil runs the bikes. They operate a Ural and Enfield dealership and rent modern bikes as well as running the tours.
The tour circles the Gorge de Verdon, a spectacular mountain area about 200 km from St Remy de Provence where CBP is located.
There were four bikes besides Neil’s Ural on the tour: a 1966 BSA A65, a 1973 Honda 750 K2, an 850 Norton Commando, and a modern Bonneville. A friend of Neil’s rode with us on another commando on the first day.
I had originally planned to ride the Ariel Square Four but I test drove it the day before the tour and, although it was a wonderful ride, the seat didn’t agree with my back. I could have chosen a velocette, one of two guzzis, or a triumph but I always wanted a 750 four so I went with the Honda knowing I’d be comfortable and that we’d switch bikes over the three days.
These bikes aren’t garage queens but they’re scrupulously clean and totally reliable. They all had stories: the velo had been neil’s as a young man, the commando had been his dad’s. He was just super at making sure everyone was comfortable on the bikes before we started and he never missed a trick on the road. He would check kickstands, petrol taps and ignition keys, help with getting a bike on the center stand and generally do whatever it took to keep us out of mechanical grief. Meanwhile he was pointing out the sights, leading us to the best café or restaurant, and arranging hotel check-ins. He made it look easy but he must have been exhausted when the tour was over.
The other folks on the tour were from various parts of England, generally younger than me but not kids. There were two couple and two solos besides Neil. We had lunches and dinner together every day and swapped bikes and bike stories. Good food, lots of wine and lots of laughs. I would say everyone’s riding was about the same level. Keithon the red commando might have been a better rider but the small winding roads evened things out on.
The roads and the scenery were wonderful – If you’ve watched any of the Tour de France you’ve seen the little country lanes we rode. Not fast but lovely bends. The Gorge de Verdon is a canyon 1500 feet deep and many miles long. The road around it draws bikers the way the dragon and the cherohala skyways do in Georgia. Every day we stopped in these impossibly picturesque little towns. One was Bonnieux where the Russel Crow movie “A Good Year” was set and just down the road from where Kate Middleton was getting her naughty bits immortalized on film.
My absolute favorite bike was the BSA: the engine was responsive and solid and it cornered like a dream – even if I was sloppy going into a turn it was nothing to reset the line and carry on. The Honda’s engine has a lovely howl at 5,000 RPM and it cornered well but it had to be pushed a bit to start the turn and then it wanted to dive in and turn tighter than needed – not a problem but not as splendid as the BSA. I was hoping I’d like the modern Bonneville but I didn’t. The motor is great, of course but the cornering just felt heavy. I mostly rode the bsa and if I could have brought one home that would have been it.
I can’t imagine a better biking experience and I strongly recommend CBP. I’m seriously thinking about going back next year.
