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...The manual doesn't say which way to turn the screw to reduce the left carb opening; which way should I turn it to get back closer to balance again?...
clockwise increases the right carb. Counterclockwise the left carby, e.g., if left tube is higher than right tube turn screw right ever so slightly.
Ever so slightly indeed! I used a vacuum gage alternating sides turning the carb balance screw with the engine off so I could push down on it, and got the readings close (about 9 Hg at 1000 rpm) before connecting the manometer. (I also put a 1/4 set screw - grub screw for you English blokes - in each hose to try to reduce the flutter. Now the MM oil is slightly higher in the left tube at idle and a couple of inches higher in the right tube at 3000 RPM, and the light oil is very sensitive shifting a foot or two difference either way as you increase and decrease RPM and doesn't always settle at the same level at idle.
S0...question - should I try for equal vacuum at idle or at 3000 to 4000 RPM where it usually runs on the road? And for you Speed Master guys, is the OEM Tach accurate at idle and is the first mark really 1000 RPM? It sounds like it is barely ticking over there.
Oh yes, if the AF screws are up inside the boss right by the carb heater connectors, mine are round with no slots but a very slight flat on one side so I suppose they take a special tool to adjust.
Phil in Northwest Arkansas
04 America, Black, Corbin seat, TORs, no AI, 34K
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