Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech 600 Mile Service

I just got my bike back from service and I'm nearing the 600 mile service. Does anyone know what they do at this service or if it's just an oil change and once-over? I just don't want to lose my bike again!

If it's just an oil change, has anyone ever posted instructions on oil changing for a TBA. Can't be hard, just want to make sure there are no little things I need to know?

It's basically removing the break-in oil and checking everything. You could do it yourself. Instructions are in your manual. You just need a wrench for the drain plug and a plastic pan to drain the oil in. Make sure you change the washer attached to the plug every time or it may leak. The washer is about $.60 at the dealer. I had it done so I could get the dealer sticker in my manual. Dealers charge too much for an oil change. I'm using Amsoil and do the changes myself. If I can do it, anyone can

-PES

Change the oil on all of our cars and if I figure if I can change it on my benz I ought to be able to do it on my bike! I think the 600 service is $150 or something isn't it? Seems like an awful lot for an oil change. Wait, that's the benz again!

Wait till you see the bill from your Triumph dealer! Do it yourself, quite a simple task. You can buy "Triumph" branded Mobil 1 at your dealer 1 gallon for $50 or so. Or go to to your local Autozone and get some Mobil 1 MXT4 V-twin 20W-50 oil, 4 qts for $32. I used a NAPA Gold filter but will probably stick with the Triumph filter in the future.

if i remember correctly my dealer said he changes both the tranny and motor and puts full synthetic in. then he says he goes over everything with a tourque wrench and tightens everything up. maybe this is not common practice, but since he is doing all of this i will suck it up for the first time and let him do the first service.

Frank

a clutch cable adjustment is almost a certainty at 600 miles. i also did some performance crap to coincide with my 600 mile service and they adjusted the carbs for "free". i hated paying for it but it ran a boatload better afterwards.

Synthetic is the only thing that should go in anyway, your dealer isn't doing anything out of the ordinary. Our motors have a common engine & transmission lubrication system and a wet clutch. A torque list is in the "Downloads" section. I'll tighten my own bolts.

Not a good recomendation to conduct the first service on your own. I will give you the "What Ifs"
IF you do the service, and IF you experience any trouble with the bike that could be connected to not having a Triumph tech doing the service, there is a chance that waranty may have issues with covering a repair.
The first service is the most important one because the techs look for safety concerns. Loose or missing stuff that sort of thing.

(Here come the IFS again) IF you do your own service, and IF you miss anything (from a safety perspective) and IF (God Forbid) somnething happens, well, you know the rest of that issue.

IMHO, the $$ spent on the first service is well worth protection it provides in case of future issues. Think of it as an insurance thing. As for the other services, they are more descretionary. But after 6000 miles, the odds of anything being loose from the factory are almost nill.

JMHO

Frank,
Do the oil change yourself and let the dealer check the rest out. That way you get the pretty stamp in your book and it will only cost about $50. That's what I did and saved about $100 for the oil change. Rember, they will charge you an hours labor ($40-90) and huge markup on the oil/filter as well. A basic oil change for the bike is over $100 at the dealer. I think you can manage that part easily and still be safe.
If you do, remember that the oil shoots straight ahead and WAY out when you remove the plug, be warned!!

Quote:

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Do the oil change yourself and let the dealer check the rest out.

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That´s exactly what i do, i just by the oilfilter from my dealer and then do the oilchange myself, saves a lot of money and i can use the oil that i want insteed of the brand that the dealer have.

Good advice. I'll call the dealer and see if I can schedule the 600 mile service less the oil change, and what the difference will be. It's really not so much the money as it's not wanting to lose my bike waiting to be serviced. If I can ride it up there, have it done, and ride it home it will give me a good excuse to be out all day!

I'm worried when I bring my bike in for the 600 mile checkup that the dealers going to freak when he sees that I've removed the AI. I want them to do the 600 mile service because of all the safety checks but they might get pissed about the AI conversion kit being on the bike.

Don't worry about it Fish. Most of the dealers, and I think all of the dealers in GA remove the AI system as a matter of delivery prep. At the very least they'll remove it for you if you ask. It does not void your warrantee, niether does aftermarket pipes. You're fine.

both the tranny and the motor use the same oil supply. So when you change one automatically you chang the other. Don't
waste your money at the dealer.

My dealer would not remove them either, but it's just a legal thing, they don't care if I did it myself. Besides, only 5 days left on my warranty anyway.
Hey, time for a birthday party! Maybe we'll have a few beers tonight. But since Speedy is too young to drink, even in bike years, I'll force myself to down a few for her.

The dealer can't do anything illegal or encourage you to do anything illegal. However YOU can do anything you want to YOUR bike, as long as it passes any tests your state might have, or you are willing to take your chances. The dealer is fine with that. They aren't going to scold you and make you feel bad because they want your business. Besides, if you screw something up you probably will pay the dealer to fix it for you. Everybody is happy.

On the 600 mile service the dealer probably checks the air in your tires. Don't forget that valuable and skilled service. <Now removing tongue from cheek>

John

My Speedy will be 2 in April. How much is that in people years? Is the bike birthday the day you sign the papers or the day you bring it home?

John

I had lots of problems from my dealer when I asked if I could remove the AI, they said it would invalidate my warranty, so I said fine I will bring it in for you to do then. They refused to remove it, until I telephoned Jack Lilley (JL), they said they would remove it and my warranty from Triumph would be fine. I then telephoned the dealer I bought the bike off again and told them that JL would be prepared to do it. They telephoned Somebody at Triumph, then came back to me and said it would be fine. They charged me £47.00 ($90.00) but at least I keep my warranty and no blue pipes. Oh and I bought the AI kit.

thanx dinqua, but i am just going to let him do this first service. just to amke sure there are NO way i can have warrenty issues. just a little piece of mind. but after this everything thsat needs to be done i will do myself.

Frank

I guess it boils down to your faith in your ability to do the necessary mechanical work. No way I'm letting a Triumph "technician" work on my bike. I've read WAY too many horror stories on this list about these "trained mechanics".
Case in point: when I had my starting troubles, the VA dealer near me was supposed to order a starter solenoid. Instead, they ordered a relay. After a 50 mile drive to pick up the wrong part, I bought it anyway as it was only $11. On the way out of the shop, the mechanic asked if I had the solenoid. When I told him a relay came instead, he commented that I wasted my $11 as there was "no way" it was the relay. Went home, figured since I had the relay I'd pop it in. Never had a problem since. Yeah, they're "trained technicians" and will check for safety concerns. Sure, and I can fly. Can you tell I don't exactly trust these guys? <g>
Btw, I'm still waiting for that VA dealer to call me and tell me my solenoid and shop manual has come in. (October)

TBANGA,

A lot of good, though opposing, info in these posts.
It really depends a lot on how you view your dealer. I have no qualms about my dealer doing anything on my bike. I let them do the first service because they need to make a buck now and then. If you have a good dealer, it's a 2-way street. I also do a lot of my own maintenance and mods, and I do all my oil changes, but I let them do the rest of the required services beyond the oil changes.
I call them up and see what their schedule is, and they usually try to accomodate me so I can either wait on the bike or come get it in a day or 2. In other words, we have a good relationship. I may need to use that someday, so it's worth it to me to give him some of my money once in a while.... but your results may vary

i agree w/ grump. change your own oil and let them do the torque wrench once over and clutch cable and chain adjustment. it's good insurance that they look the bike over, i think.

if i need parts i go to my dealer. they have to make a living, too. my dealer is a small family run shop and they seem to do good work and are very nice. my dealer even sells amzoil on the side.

tbanga, how's the bike running now? was it the coils?

btw, w/ the new oil, the bike will run even smoother, shift smoother.

a few things to invest in for the future wd. be a sears-type jack (on sale for about $90) for oil changes and chain lube/adjustment, a torque wrench (i think i paid $60), and an oil filter wrench ($5)and a set of allen sockets ($15-20). these bikes are easy to work on. i just put some new rear brake pads and it took about 20 minutes.

torque settings are posted on the main page somewhere.

there are different theories on oil changes: cold/warm; drain overnight. for me, i warm mine up, (not hot ouch) then jack it up and drain the oil (someone mentioned it shoots forward and it does) and then take off the filter and let it all drip out while i clean and lube the chain. don't forget to put the oil plug back in. i also fill the filter before i put it back on. my oil filter will leak if i don't tighten it up pretty snug, which is about a good strong turn w/ an oil filter wrench after it's hand tightened. there are k & n oil filters w/ a nut welded on the bottom to make this easier, but i'm not sure if local dealer have them i know brent does at new speedy.com. i can't recall what the oil filter torque value is, and if you use a filter wrench, snug is a good acurate term. make sure you rub some oil around the filter's rubber gasket before you reinstall it.

i also think it's a good idea to put a new oil plug crush washer in each time. i was able to match mine up at napa where i also get their napa gold filter. i can't recall for sure the filter number, but i think it's 1538...??? but they can look it up. i have a magnetic oil plug that i bought that will go in w/ my next oil change. i like the amzoil 20/50 for my bike. i've heard good things about other syntheitcs including mobil v twin 20/50.

you want the bike level and it does take 4 quarts. there's a oil site glass on the right side and when full the level will be between the low and high marks, not up to the full mark. the oil filler plug is on the right-- the big chrome screw right below the right carb. it will scratch easy, so be carefull.

my first service was just over 100 dollars, including the oil change. but it's the downtime that you are concerned w/; i'm the same way, even though i'm lucky and my dealer is 6 blocks away.



cat

Cat:
Great point: the right tools of a good quality is a must.
Tell me more about the magnetic oil plug, where did you find this item?

There are good dealers out there, you just have to search. Grump's dealer is a jewel, as is the mechanic at that shop. (Collins Cycle, PA) MCS near Philly is also a terrific shop. There are no doubt others out there, I just haven't run across them yet. At the two shops listed above, Triumph is their one and only passion. Most of the others have Triumph just as a sideline and it shows.

ssjones,

here's (link below) the info i have for the magnetic drain plug. half the cost was shipping; i got 4 crush washers too, at 30 cents a piece...

someone said he just puts a strong magnet on the oil filter? not a bad idea.
some guys are using them on their bonnie standards over on delphi; that's where i got the info. same engine.

i haven't installed it yet but will next oil change.

cat

Code Description Quantity Unit Price Unit Tax Net (excl.)
1002M 1002M DRAIN PLUG 14MM-1.5 MAGNETIC 1 $3.60 $0.00 $3.60
2402 2402 GASKET 14MM ALUMINUM 4 $0.23 $0.00 $0.92

Sub Total $4.52
Tax $0.00
Shipping $5.50
TOTAL $10.02 magnetic drian plug

My plan is to have the shop do the initial service this way while things are bedding in and any weeps or other problems arise it goes straight back to them without an issue. Then oil changes and minor maintenance will be done by me, mainly for the fact that I get to know and learn the bike in my shed rather than trying to learn it on the side of the road in the never never with minimal tools. Speaking of which what have people found to be the best tools to carry. ie sizes of spanners, allen keys etc above the normal tapes, zip ties blah blah blah.

Cheers 'n' Beers
Nico