Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods Zmilins build *finally started*

BIG TIME!

OK... here it is...

No - I have not ridden it yet. I was only able to get to the dealer, pay and pick up keys and paperwork. Ill pick it up later this afternoon.
Yes Dwight, those numbers are at the rear wheel.
From what I understand these numbers are also a bit on the conservative side due to the SAE.
I have a handful of dyno sheets but am only going to post this one for now. Im going to ask if he has one or can configure it on paper to show RPM instead of MPH and add a/f to it.

I have zero complaints (except for how much this tuning session cost me but I needed to have it done for my own peace of mind and lack of time).
The TPUSA parts are top notch!
The service and support from Carlos is nothing short of spectacular.

All that said here it is on paper for your own eyes to feast upon. Sit back from the monitor so as not to drool on your keyboards people
What your seeing is the run from 2-8 (baseline before all the mods) and 5-11 (max Hp/Tq after mods).

I'm impressed and yes he can give you engine speed instead of mph and a/f ratio (they have some scroll down menu)

.....I'm going friday to my man to get new print of my last dyno with torque and rpm instead of mph

AH,nice one Zman!

It sure will be nice to be able to just twist that throttle and have the instantaneous power to pass a car or three on a stretch of two-lane road when ya need it, Z.

(...which is the only aspect of our bikes I've always felt was lacking in 'em)

And that's not even a 904. Very impressed. Congrats on a great result to the whole post and for keeping us a part of it.

If I were Carlos, I'd give you a big discount on the next engine upgrade you plan based on the free advertisment you provided.

Great results, however, I have to ask, why did the operator choose "Smoothing : 2" instead of the customary 5?

It was the services guy that printed it. I got one that is better with a/ f on it but won't be able to post till later tonight.
I also chose one (they have 13 runs on record for me) that is slightly less HP but is a better run.

what is your redline set to?

Very respectable numbers. Nice going, Z!

Dave,
I thought redline was at 8k but after this it looks like its 8.5k.

ok... heres one of the other runs in a format we are all a bit more used to seeing.
Hp on the left, Tourqe on the right. RPM at the bottom. SAE at 4 (makes the lines look smoother).
They said they didn't stab the throttle on this run, more of a roll on to WOT.
I really like that torque line. It gets there and stays there across the run. Funny... on the short ride home this evening I was thinking that it felt more consistent.

Anyway... more eye candy for you all...

Heres the chart showing run 12 and 13 (the one I posted above).
In run 12 they did a stab to WOT and the a/f curve was all over the place till about 4500rpm. They said it was due to those carbs sucking in so much air initially. At first I thought BS but the more I think about it the more Im convincing myself that it makes sense. I mean how often am I going to be stabbing the throttle to WOT from a dead stop!... right

Im wondering how this will translate to real world riding. This is also the run that makes me want to install one of the Innovative Motorsports systems to monitor the a/f during real works riding. Ugggg... the idea of spending more money right now makes me ill.

ok... Ive made a modification to the title of this portion of the thread. I changed the HP to 82 because its more accurate and consistent. Of the 13 runs they did only one made it to 83 Hp.

I rode a bit yesterday and a bit today. I have not had the opportunity to get it out for more than 50 miles at a time.

Initial impressions are as follows:
- Im glad I wear a full face otherwise everyone would see the stupid grin on my face. Seriously, no exaggeration, Im grinning ear to ear even when Im hang on for dear life.
- The sound is deeper. More pronounced and seems to be less "twangy" out of the pipes.
- I hate to admit it but when I really get on it its intimidating. Im getting used to it but none the less, its a lot more bike than I had before. Id also be lying If I didn't admit that the first time I really got on it that it dint scare the snot outta me. I simply didn't expect it to be like this. I had an idea due to the one time during break in that I got it up there but I partially dismissed that to being giddy.

Now something really interesting...
- I thought I had an issue between 1st and 2nd. It felt like it was bogging after shifting into 2nd. I did some more runs today (a combo of roll on and WOT) and figured out what was happening...
-- The torque comes in close to 3k and stays there (within a couple ft/lbs) all the way to redline. For as awesome as that is it creates a situation... Normally we can feel the need to shift the bike because we feel the power drop off. Our brains tell us its time to shift at that point. Most of us do this even if we have a tach... we don't really look at it and the tach is really only a security blanket or a tool to help us know where our idle is and maybe at what RPM we are at when we balance carbs.
Imagine taking away the power drop off and having an odd angle view to the tach (sorry if you never noticed that because you will from this point forward). You know what happens... YOU HIT THE REV LIMITER ... a lot and it makes your bike cut out when you do that and THAT makes you think that your bogging down in the next gear. The very moment you realize that your power is so dang consistent all the way to redline and that you may actually need a shift light is when your grin tries to get bigger than your face can handle and your cheeks hurt. :fat grin:

There has been some inquiries about how smooth the bike really runs at idle with the carbs and cams... silk! Like silk! I might even go out on a limb and say it runs smoother than it did before. Ill get this on video as well.
How easy is it to start with no choke... pfft! Who needs a choke! I believe I described this in a previous post but its even easier now that the carbs seem to be right. Of course the weather has warmed up so I can't tell you how easy it is to cold start it but Ill let you know when it gets cold again in a few months.

I can go on and on and on but I won't. I have decided that its ok to brag a bit so Im going to do that for a while and not feel guilty about it, not one bit.

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I mean how often am I going to be stabbing the throttle to WOT from a dead stop!... right

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often just for fun factor

So the next step will be a brake upgrade.
After riding this weekend I came to a rather inconvenient realization that my current brake set up will not do, especially if Im hot rodding the bike around like I seem to be doing.

Keep in mind Im a larger guy (300#+) so the bike has a bit more stopping to do when it needs to slow me down...especially at speed.

When the bike was stock I went with better EBC pads. That did the trick.
I did some typical mods (pipes, Freak) and the above set up was ok but adding the EBC floating root was the ticket for sure.
Now the bike has some serious go power and needs some better stopping power. If Im riding normally its ok but since the bike has a tendency to get moving a lot faster and seems to be at a faster speed (I wonder how that happened all of a sudden) I will not be able to stop the way I want.

So after a conversation with Carlos today I learned that the America caliper and Bonny calipers seems to be the same. (damn, just remembered I forgot to ask him something). This means the Beringer calipers (4pot or 6pot) are a direct swap. Good news.

An upgrade to one of the above is good but to get the real performance out of them requires a master cylinder with a bigger diameter valve. Damn... I had forgot about that part of the equation!

The brakes (pun intended) are on this portion of the project for a coupe weeks at which time I will be ordering up a nice 6pot caliper and R3 m/c. Maybe even a new rotor just to be safe. Not sure yet.


Why the 6pot... cause Im still in the market for a 994 BB next year and if I do that I will need the 6pot then so I may as well do it now.

I know I could have waited for all this but what the heck... I like baiting you all along

Stop it.

Order officially placed today...

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So the next step will be a brake upgrade.
After riding this weekend I came to a rather inconvenient realization that my current brake set up will not do, especially if Im hot rodding the bike around like I seem to be doing.

Keep in mind Im a larger guy (300#+) so the bike has a bit more stopping to do when it needs to slow me down...especially at speed.

When the bike was stock I went with better EBC pads. That did the trick.
I did some typical mods (pipes, Freak) and the above set up was ok but adding the EBC floating root was the ticket for sure.
Now the bike has some serious go power and needs some better stopping power. If Im riding normally its ok but since the bike has a tendency to get moving a lot faster and seems to be at a faster speed (I wonder how that happened all of a sudden) I will not be able to stop the way I want.

So after a conversation with Carlos today I learned that the America caliper and Bonny calipers seems to be the same. (damn, just remembered I forgot to ask him something). This means the Beringer calipers (4pot or 6pot) are a direct swap. Good news.

An upgrade to one of the above is good but to get the real performance out of them requires a master cylinder with a bigger diameter valve. Damn... I had forgot about that part of the equation!

The brakes (pun intended) are on for this portion of the project for a couple weeks at which time I will be ordering up a nice 6pot caliper and R3 m/c. Maybe even a new rotor just to be safe. Not sure yet.


Why the 6pot... cause Im still in the market for a 994 BB next year and if I do that I will need the 6pot then so I may as well do it now.

I know I could have waited for all this but what the heck... I like baiting you all along

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After looking at Baringer web site it got me thinking. If our bikes use a H12a and most Honda's use a H12a and the Honda's that use a H11a use the same disk but come with a 4 pot from the factory. I wounder what the difference in mounting is.

The Honda three piston (Europe models fit). Wonder what models have the 4 piston....

http://www.bonnevilleamerica.com/forums/...e=0&fpart=2

I think I am going to find a cbr forum and talk to them maybe I can get a lead on something.

The cbr's here run a radial brake and that doesn't fit...I think that started in 06 or 07...before that I think they are two piston

This one is four (I think)...two on the outside and two on the inside

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-cbr-600-...e#ht_500wt_1202

Damm we may be on to some thing here:
Statside
http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-03-HONDA-CBR9...#ht_3536wt_1214
This shows 4 pistons:
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/1057-honda-2002-cbr954rr-cbr900rr/assemblies/13876

So who has some cash to blow to try this lol!

Did you guys not see the thread that Grzegorz started a few days ago...?
Brake upgrade 3 piston caliper

Theres also a write up on rat.net but I got banned (I think).

yes but they are only in the UK need to find something in the us that will work. So leave us aloan Z oh wait this is your thread... im leaving now

I wish I saw this earlier...I dropped $80 on a '87 set that is just two pistons..which is what I have now on my speedmaster...any one what them ?LOL

I know we all like finding something that works and is cheap but there are certain things I won't screw around with. Stopping is one of them.

I was thinking of bidding on a R3 master cylinder on eBay and going with a take off caliper but the more I thought about it the more I decided that saving a bit longer and being able to have the utmost confidence in the mods I made, as well as not wanting to take a chance with my life, I opted to go new and conciquentially bigger (6pot over 4pot).

I just came across this thread today (I usually spend my time at the RAT forum) and wanted to say that I really enjoyed following your progress through the engine modifications. I also agree 100 % on Carlos. I've delt with him on a number of modifications and found him to be very customer oriented and very tech savy. He's helped me solve problems over the phone, sent me parts so that I could keep my bike running while I sent him the cores, and has taken the time to follow up on things to make sure all was well. TPUSA has a great representative in Carlos.

And Z, I think you're modifications are going to be costing me some money in the near future! I love your dyno figures.

Right out the box...


Comparison... size maters boys and mine is bigger than yours
Now if I can learn to use it properly...


Installed and ready for use...


BTW... if you haven't checked your brake fluid lately you should. Ive checked my pads, fluid levels and rotors often over the last few years and never noticed the change in color of brake fluid. What I thought was fine actually drained out in a watered down coffee color.
Ill be draining and refiling the rears later this afternoon... since Ill be checking the rear pads anyway

You should change the bake fluid at least once per year or when ever it becomes a dark color. If you want optimum braking with no fade..When I had my sport bike and doing track days I would change the fluid every 2 months..

Speedmasters come with 4 pots and 2 rotors to boot, both should haul up 'bout the same, as long as the America is upgraded, such as Z s bike.

Sorry to wake the dead but what an awesome build, and great results. Any recent updates?

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I like to play so the BB is still in my future, just not this year because Im getting married (in a few weeks actually).

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you got priorities wrong