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Ok Gents, the only time I could get a current reading at all was when I did what the instructions said and plugged the RED test lead into the 10A jack in the multi meter. The instructions also mention this connection plug is used when the current is larger than 200mA. Whatever that means.

Then with the red test lead's probe touching the negative terminal and the black lead's probe touching the frame, the reading showed 17. What was not expected though was the negative probe sparking when I touched the frame and both leads getting seriously hot to the point they felt like they were going to melt.

Anyway, because I'm not sure of what is going on, I might see if the battery drops any voltage overnight. I just want to make sure again there is definitely a drain happening and provided there is, go to plan B. What was plan B again ha ha

It also may mean I have to take my bike to a mechanic this time cos electrics probs like this does my head in.

So I'll write a post tomorrow after I check the battery's voltage.
Thanks again for helping me out.

stacka


Just to confirm, Stacka... this test was done with the key off, and the negative lead disconnected from the battery, right? If so you definitely have a short somewhere. The next step would be to find out which circuit the short is in. One by one, pull the fuses and each time you pull one, run the same test for each fuse. Eventually you will have pulled a fuse with a 0 reading on the meter. When that happens you will know which circuit the short is in.

Btw, mA = milliamps which is very low current. A clock running off the bike is an example of something that would draw a very small current from the battery. Anything running on mere milliamps would not cause the spark you spoke of.

Live to love, love to live.