Quote:

Ryk,,,,

Did ya use the parallels before you put the chain on(sprocket to sprocket), find a reference measurement. Then assemble with chain and measure off the reference?

There can not be a hell of alot of room with the chain on, with a parallel, on the sprocket together.

I have the same tools available to me (no laser) but i'm having a problem picturing the set-up in my head right now
with the chain on the bike.

I don't mind spending the extra time fine tuning if the tools are available.

it's not A-Nall to me, it's the challange

thanks,Les




I had the bike on a stand, chain, guard and shocks off and new sprockets installed. Raised and lowered jack to get the best access to sprockets with the rear tire on the floor. Then ascertained the points to attach the parallels to my straightedge ( marked with a sharpie), I attached the parallels with duct tape so as not interfere with readings (it will be obvious where the tape needs to go), established best possible parallity via the chain tensioners and established with a feeler gauge that my input (front) sprocket needed 18 thou shim behind it to come as close as possible. BTW,I took 10 readings, noted each one, averaged out the values (spun the sprockets 90 degrees each read). Rarely will these kind of alignments come out perfect, but the harder you try, the closer you will get. We now use Lasers a lot now in industrial apps. (Rotolign & Optilign) but the old ways still have validity, IMO. This all came about because at 6000 miles my chain and sprockets were shot. When I installed a new D I D chain and new sprockets the chain refused to center on the rear sprocket, it would hug toward inboard side of the rear. Coincidentally the wear on my original rear Spr. was on the outboard side and basically validates the misalignment I found and re mediated, did I leave any thing out?