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Greetings to all.


back at ya!

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...I ride a Heritage Softail :0 but here lately, my wife wanted to get her motorcycle endorsement so; after this weekend's safety training course she'll now have a new bike...


Won't be long before you trade bikes with her.

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I "think" I got this pretty cheap. The bike has for starters, 27k miles but (I only paid $3800 for it) and I have no idea what someone did to get that kind'a mileage on an 07 but there it is.


27,000/4.5 = 6,000 miles per year. Just about average for yankees.

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First off, as tires go, it has an almost new (1k miles maybe?)Metzler 100-90-18 M/C "ME-880" on the rear, and a completely worn out (no center tread whatsoever) Metzler 170-80 B-15 M/C 77H on the front.



the good Friar observed that you reversed the order of rubber. however, you mentioned a wobble at speed. Usually, this is due to cupping of the front skin. So, if it is the rear tire that is almost showing cord, and the front tire is new, replace the rear tire and then see if you get rid of handling issues. Inflation pressure is a major factor in premature tire wear. Usually the tires are inflated front/rear 36/40 give or take due to the brand.

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I don't find that to be a common size... so what's up with that?


18" tires are indeed uncommon. The newer models did away with that size.

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What IS a good size front tire for this bike?


Usually you have two choices in 18" tires: 100/90-18 or 110/80-18 due to Manufacturer decisions. Either works fine. You want a bias ply tire. DO NOT get a Radial tire. You do not need W rated tires.

for example: http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/tire/p...tId=&mmyId=

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The front rotor is fairly worn. is there a good aftermarket one?


ditto purchasing a rotor and pad 'kit' from fastfreddy. BUT measure the thickness first. Just get new pads if the rotor is in specs. So what if there are grooves. The new pads will bed in. Your wife is not going to race it eh? and LOOK AT THE REAR PADS. these are the first to go.

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I'm going to need a windscreen.


You? or your wife! Once you opt for a windscreen, you will realize the true meaning of buffet. Then you'll need lowers and, well, shields are for those who don't wear full face helmets. (I'm being polite)

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When you turn loose of the handle bars at between 70 and 40 of course, you get the dreaded "wobble". I really don't know the scientific term for this physics phenomenon, but it seems much worse than my Harley; is this common to this machine?


see above

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When you let off the throttle, then accelerate, it seems to jerk a little, could that be chain tension? It has been adjusted out some already but there's room for more so's to take up slack. Or, should I remove (can you??) a link or just get a new chain (expensive! no?).



Cush Drive or worn chain. With the chain properly tensioned, try to lift the chain off the rear sprocket while grasping the chain at the 9 o'clock position. If you can lift it off the sprocket an appreciable amount, then the chain is shot. If you adjust the chain then ride the bike and have to adjust the chain again: the chain is shot.

Cush drive. Grasp the rear chain ring. Rock it back and forth to measure the play. There should be little to no play for a tight cush drive. 27K on the bike? Well you have to be on the second chain. Hum, average 20K/chain kit. look for a riveted link. if you chain doesn't have one, you sir, have the original 'endless' chain and you better get your ass a new chain kit. Order an oem chain kit. http://www.hermys.com/ has a good price.

Change your oil and filter. Check the condition of the air filter. Check the header pipe to jug nuts. Have fun and congrats to your wife for getting her endorsement!


Blowing gravel off rural roads