We finally got together to run the tests, and here are the results;
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testing the connector with 3 yellow wires coming directly from the stator. With the engine running test the voltage (set your multimeter to AC) across all three possible wire combinations. You should get a reading of 60-70 volts as I recall.
The voltage we measured at 4000rpm was 35 across each of the 3 possible wire combinations. Is 60/70 where it should be?
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that connector above is the one I wanted you to inspect to look for any signs of burning/damage
(also - how did the connector the R/R plugged into look?)
No signs of damage or burning. Connecters were all nicely greased.
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Next, at same connector, do the test I outlined earlier - measure the resistance between any of the three pins (does not matter which one) to engine ground - should be 'open' i.e. infinite resistance.
They all had infinite resistance
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If that is good (i.e. not short) then you can start it;
with meter on AC Volts measure from pins 1-2, 2-3 and 3-1 in turn (doesn't matter which you call 1 etc)
All three should the same at any given rpm - at idle expect ~ 20V. As you increase rpm the voltage should rise, but again, if you fix the rpm (say 4000 rpm), all three should be the same - the absolute numbers are less important, that they are balanced is what indicates one leg is not 'down'.
- Again, the voltage measured was 35 at all of the combinations.
Bill wanted me to mention a couple of other things.
- With that connecter unplugged, the bike ran smooth. With it pugged together, it was a bit choppy.
- he said if already running, the bike should be able to run with the positive disconnected from the battery. While it would idle, reving it caused it to stall.
