Quote:

...As far as the diode, I dont know what that actually does. I had it pulled out, but the bike still started. I took it down to the shop, and they were not sure what it did either. They took a picture of the part and were going to try to get some more info from someone else in the organization. This is the one in the harness near the starter relay, not the one under the tank...



There is only one diode assembly - are you sure you identified the thing you are talking about as the diode assembly? The starter relay will not operate without the diode assembly plugged in - you must have something else in mind. I am quite intimate & confident of my understanding of the electrical system schematic - however my first-hand knowledge of the physical location of some components on the America or Speedmaster is limited.
Can you share the picture or identify which colour wires are/were connected to it?

I recognized you were not saying the ss switch has anything to do with the lights flickering/low voltage - however in regard to that issue you mention of it cutting out (which is most certainly unrelated to the charging failure), your logic is reversed;
if it does not cut out with side-stand raised, but does with it down, that definitely points to the neutral switch, not the side-stand switch.
To the contrary, it actually proves the side-stand switch is working, since if closed (raised) it enables the Igniter which should otherwise already be enabled by the Neutral Switch - with the sidestand closed it does not care what the neutral switch is doing (since this is the mode for normal riding in gear!)
So you are simply over-riding the ill-effect of a poor neutral switch with the side-stand up.

If the neutral light remains on while the problem is overcome by raising the ss then the problem would potentially be poor connectivity of the neutral signal on the Igniter, at the connector itself.
(Do you have stock Igniter or Procom?)

Going back to the stator for a moment: the simplest test is just to unplug the stator and measure resistance between any one of the three terminals in the connector (end that goes back to the stator, NOT the R/R) and engine ground - that should be open circuit, infinite resistance.
If you measure short (zero ohms) then your stator is 100% to be bad.
Conversely, if 'open', not absolute guarantee is good, but high probabilty it is OK.
As mentioned earlier, inspect that connection for signs of arcing/burning while you are it.

Last edited by DEcosse; 06/14/2011 2:27 AM.