 Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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I have just finished installing the mosfet R/R upgrade and wiring - being stage 4 of the charge system upgrade.  Background - I have an EFI America and I find I need improvements on the charge system. The EFI bikes use a bit more power than carbed models and they have smaller batteries (to make room for the ECU). This problem is compounded by my daily commute being very short - there is a lot of engine starting and very little running time for charging. When the charge drops below 11.6 volts the ECU won't let the engine start - and you're stuck. I also want to be able to run a few electrical accessories (audio amplifier, GPS, heated gloves) and not worry about the battery. Charge system improvements so far:Stage 1 - . Installation of a digital voltmeter to monitor battery status. This is mounted unobtrusively under the speedo. Very handy - with just a flick of a switchI can see the battery status and I know when to hook up to the battery tender (trickle charger). I got the Datel Voltmeter here.  Stage 2 - Installation of a switched bypass of the ECU's low-voltage cut-off. While this works, my battery is pretty much stuffed (too many deep cycles for the OEM Yuasa) and so the battery depletes before the engine can start. This bypass should work better with a better/newer battery. The thread for this mod is here.Stage 3 - Installation of a the headlight-cut mod - involving a relay module and a few diodes. This mod prevents the headlight turning on before the engine starts. The last thing you want if your battery is low is the headlight on before and during attempts to start. This mod works great. The headlight-cut mod thread is here.Stage 4 - Installed the R/R (regulator/rectifier) upgrade that DEcosse made popular on the RAT forum. DEcosse's detail on the Mosfet R/R & installation on various Triumphs. Quote:
Best widely available R/R on the market today is the Shindengen FH012AA used on the late (06+) Yamaha FJR, 07+ Yamaha R1 among others
What makes it better is that is a MOSFET controlled device rather than the crude SCR shunt type that is on most bikes until recently and also is a 50A rated device. MUCH better voltage regulation and runs cooler too due to more efficient devices and control circuitry.
I got the mosfet FH012AA R/R from http://www.roadstercycle.com/.
I added a copper plater heatsink for added efficiency and heavy duty wiring from Eastonbeaver. Linky
The OEM connector appears to be this 250 connector Scroll down to find the black 6 pin "Connector Set 6P250-CNA" plug for $4.73 from Eastern Beaver. I thought our bikes use the Yakasi style connector for the stator connection but I was wrong. I ended up re-using the OEM stator connection. But my battery connection now go directly from the new R/R to the battery (via a 30A fuse).
Installation: - I had to remove the rear wheel to drill one mounting hole for the R/R. The R/R mounts at the same place as the OEM but the fixing holes vary. I had some trouble getting the OEM plug out (I didn't want to cut the wires in case I need to reinstall the old R/R (which still runs fine). I found a nifty trick to get the plug and wiring out. The plug won't fit by the frame where the wires run. But the whole wiring will come towards you and fit down behind the battery frame and then it's just a bit more wriggling to withdraw the wiring down and out by the R/R.
RESULTS:
OEM Voltages (before stage 3 mods)
Ignition off - 12.8v
Ignition on - not running - 12.2v
1000rpm - 13.7v
2500+rpm - 13.7v
Voltages after stage 3
The only difference
Ignition on - not running - 12.4v
Voltages after stage 4
Ignition off - 12.9v
Ignition on - not running - 12.6v
1000rpm - 14.2v
2000+rpm - 14.4v
So I have gained 0.7v of charging. the 14.4v while running is rock solid - no fluctuations at all, while the OEM R/R would fluctuate by 0.2-0.3v constantly.
Stage 5 - Install the new LiFePo (lithium iron phosphate) battery from Shorai. It should arrive next week. I got it from
Zoran at Twin Works Factory Racing. I ordered the LFX18A1-BS12 and SHO-BMS01 charger. The battery is smaller than stock EFI and much smaller than the carbed bike battery. It's lighter and much more powerful. More importantly, for me, it handles lots more deep cycles and has a much longer life.
The Shorai website has more info - read the FAQ there.
I will update the voltages when the Shorai is installed.
Last edited by foglefar; 06/04/2011 9:04 AM.
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,150
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I'm impressed Richard. Nice work and thanks for sharing mate. Looking forward to having a seeing it in a couple of months. 
Staintune Pipes, K&N Pods, 45 pilots, TBS needles and 145 mains.
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,932 Likes: 2
Loquacious
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Loquacious
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,932 Likes: 2 |
wouldnt it have been easier to ride your bike longer?
we should do this every weekend!
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Joined: Mar 2005
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Definitely. More easier options: - get a job further away. - ride a bicycle to work instead. - get a mobility cart. - always keep the bike hooked up to a battery tender. - work from home.  
Cheers, Richard
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09 America, Staintune Pipes, K&N, Breathe, Hagon Nitros, AI & O2 removed, tune 20184 (modified), MTX-L a/f gauge
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,150
Oil Expert
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Oil Expert
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Buy a T-Bird  or a Hog  Seriously though, my regualtor rectifier shat itself mid NSW last year and luckily for me the Triumph Dealer at Tamworth ordered a Shindengan replacement. This is the first time I've heard it's a goody though. Nice to know that. Here's a pic just for interest  I've also done the large gauge wire mod direct from the R/R to the battery. Made a big difference in all charging including at idle. I'd recommend that simple mod to anyone who has carbs like myself cos the OEM wiring is too long (resistance) and to thin (more resistance). It's in the tech vault I believe.  I'd like to get that gauge to monitor my charge though. Looks real good.
Last edited by Stacka; 06/06/2011 12:51 AM.
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Joined: Mar 2005
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HArd to tell if it's the same Shindengen from the photo - but it does look like it has been mounted on the front side of the bracket. My OEM R/R was mounted on the rear side of the bracket. Not sure if it makes much difference though. Maybe not quite so exposed to crap off the rear wheel.
Last edited by foglefar; 06/06/2011 6:57 AM.
Cheers, Richard
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09 America, Staintune Pipes, K&N, Breathe, Hagon Nitros, AI & O2 removed, tune 20184 (modified), MTX-L a/f gauge
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,971
Loquacious
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Loquacious
Joined: May 2006
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Thanks for the post Mr. F. Very informative
A little off topic - I had to solder on a new lug for my brake light switch the other day. I don't think Triumph could possibly put much less copper into this harness. Seemed like a skinny little wire for 12 volt. Oh well, it's a fun bike despite it's limits.
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,616
Check Pants
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Check Pants
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,616 |
SOLD: 07 Black BA, 39mm FCRs, TPUSA stage 1 head, TPUSA 813 cams, TPUSA 10.8:1 pistons, TTP #3 igniter, Specialty Spares Long Cannons, Tsukayu Hard Bags. 82HP/55tq
NEW: 19 Goldwing Tour DCT
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Charge system upgrade - Stages 5
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Stage 5 - OK now I've installed the new LiFePo (lithium iron phosphate) battery from Shorai -the LFX18A1-BS12 and SHO-BMS01 charger.
PREVIOUS RESULTS:
OEM Voltages (before stage 3 mods)
Ignition off - 12.8v rested voltage - 100% charged
Ignition on - not running - 12.2v
1000rpm - 13.7v
2500+rpm - 13.7v
Voltages after stage 3
The only difference
Ignition on - not running - 12.4v
Voltages after stage 4
Ignition off - 12.9v rested voltage - 100% charged
Ignition on - not running - 12.6v
1000rpm - 14.2v
2000+rpm - 14.4v
UPDATED RESULTS:
Voltages after Stage 5
At fully charged 100%
Ignition off - 14.4v rested voltage
Ignition on - not running - 13.7v
1000rpm - 14.3v
2000+rpm - 14.4v
At normal charged 90%
Ignition off - 13.3v rested voltage
Ignition on - not running - 13.2v
1000rpm - 14.3v
2000+rpm - 14.4v
Review: While the battery adds 0.5v (resting voltage) over the OEM, it's real advantage comes from more cranking amps, more amp hours and more tolerance of deep cycles. The latter will be confirmed in time.
Shorai LFX18A1-BS12
CCA = 270
Amp hours = 18
Weight = 1 kilo (2.2lbs)
Dimensions: 148 x 66 x 105mm (5.8" x 2.6" x 4.13")
Yuasa YT12B-BS
CCA = 210
Amp hours = 10
Weight = 3+ kilos (7.6lbs)
Dimensions: 150 x 69 x 130mm (6"6" x 2.75" x 5.125")
Last edited by foglefar; 06/08/2011 6:40 PM.
Cheers, Richard
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09 America, Staintune Pipes, K&N, Breathe, Hagon Nitros, AI & O2 removed, tune 20184 (modified), MTX-L a/f gauge
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,228
I live in the sun downunder
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I live in the sun downunder
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,228 |
Quote:
Buy a Hog
On the right track there Stacka. 
FrankW
Ex Speedmaster rider, went to the Dark Side now riding an America.
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Re: Charge system upgrade - Stages 5
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 473
Adjunct
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Adjunct
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 473 |
Excellent results. I'm impressed. That battery has me intrigued as well. Great work!
H.
2010 Speedmaster Black/New England White
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Joined: Mar 2005
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Oil Expert
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Cheers, Richard
~~~~~~~~~~~~
09 America, Staintune Pipes, K&N, Breathe, Hagon Nitros, AI & O2 removed, tune 20184 (modified), MTX-L a/f gauge
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,228
I live in the sun downunder
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I live in the sun downunder
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,228 |
Quote:
Quote:
Buy a Hog
Check my earlier post - I've already ruled out getting a mobility scooter.
From what I here you already ride one.
FrankW
Ex Speedmaster rider, went to the Dark Side now riding an America.
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Joined: Dec 2006
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Well you wouldn't believe it but 2 days after reading this post, my bike wouldn't start due to it being a relatively cold -3 degrees C or 26 degrees F, and my battery not having enough juice. So luckily for me Richard's post gave me the opportunity to order my own Shorai LFX18. You beauty. Now, given the last of my bike's charging woes are behind me, I'm thinking that will be the final time my bike doesn't start due to our oem charging problems. 
Staintune Pipes, K&N Pods, 45 pilots, TBS needles and 145 mains.
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Hey Stacka. From my experience so far - and DEcosses excellent review of the Shorai here on the RAT forum - you won't be disappointed with your Shorai. NOTE: there is some differences with the LiFePo battery versus lead acid battery in very cold starts. The following is lifted from the Shorai FAQ (linky) ... Quote:
Lithium do increase in resistance more as temperature drops, compared to lead-acid. However, they also react to cranking under cold conditions in a much better way. Lead-acid will increase resistance on each subsequent cranking attempt, until it won’t turn over. If your LFX fails to start the engine on first crank, that first crank has warmed the battery, and the second attempt will be much stronger, and so on until you get a good start.
Shorai LFX are much better in cold-weather conditions than other-brand lithium starter batteries, due to our eXtreme-rate formulation with low resistance. Down to about 20 degrees fahrenheit (-7C) most users find that they can start normally on first crank. If your headlight comes on at key-ON, it is good for the batteries to flow some current before cranking in cold weather. The suggested headlight-on time before cranking depends on the temperature. If starting at 40f (5C), 30 seconds will help wake the battery and increase cranking performance. If at 0f (-17C), leave the lights on for 4~5 minutes before cranking. The result will be a better first crank, and longer battery life. Any other accessories that can be turned on before cranking can also be used for this purpose, such as heated gear, radio, etc...
The latter part - turning accessories on before starting - is counter-intuitive with our experience of lead-acid but obviously it works.
Last edited by foglefar; 06/11/2011 2:00 AM.
Cheers, Richard
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09 America, Staintune Pipes, K&N, Breathe, Hagon Nitros, AI & O2 removed, tune 20184 (modified), MTX-L a/f gauge
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Joined: Dec 2006
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Oil Expert
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Thanks for the link to the ratnet thread Richard. I guess for once I got lucky with the timing and not buying a lead acid last week for instance. Mind you the lead acid in it now only lasted a year. My suspicion is, The high load headlight bulb added with a gps and iPhone was drawing more than the charge system could restore. Then I only got a chance to divert the smaller and thicker gauge wire after nearly draining the new battery which I've read isn't good for it longevity wise. Now considering OzBam time is creeping up, Im now pretty confident this new lithium battery has the potential to last me years. Then as you rightly point out, these batteries treat the cold with contempt which is why NRMA get so much business during winter in Canberra. For me then, it's almost too good to be true this New battery. Yay. I do want to put on a volt meter though.
Staintune Pipes, K&N Pods, 45 pilots, TBS needles and 145 mains.
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Finally got round to taking a photo of the new R/R mount.  This is taken from below the rear wheel looking towards the front of the bike. I have tucked the drain tubes up out of the way for the benefit of the photo. They normally hang down over the top of the connectors. Only the left OEM bolt position is used but is hidden from view between the two connectors. The white paste on the copper heat sink is electrical heat transfer goo. The new R/R is mounted sideways - the OEM R/R was mounted with the wiring coming from the top. The copper heat sink is not essential in the R/R upgrade because the mosfet R/R runs a great deal cooler than the OEM R/R but, because the OEM mounting holes don't line up with the new R/R, a mounting plate was necessary and it may as well serve two functions. The copper plate is bent in an "L" shape.
Last edited by foglefar; 06/13/2011 6:21 AM.
Cheers, Richard
~~~~~~~~~~~~
09 America, Staintune Pipes, K&N, Breathe, Hagon Nitros, AI & O2 removed, tune 20184 (modified), MTX-L a/f gauge
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Joined: Dec 2006
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Very tidy Richard
Staintune Pipes, K&N Pods, 45 pilots, TBS needles and 145 mains.
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Re: Charge system upgrade - stages 1, 2, 3 & 4
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Joined: Sep 2005
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Freelance Jedi Knight
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Freelance Jedi Knight
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,816 |
this might be my next mod depends how my stock reg will work with bypassed hot wire
Last edited by Grzegorz; 11/03/2012 9:13 PM.
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