Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech dead battery

i understand there have been a few guy's that have had this happen but have found no post about it so. i had a dead batt. this wknd and could not understand why, it was brand new in december. got it over to Chy's house and started doing a little investigating and found that it wasnt charging proper when we took the seat off we found that the connector plug for the voltage regulator/rectifier was burnt to a crisp and even had a wire burnt off. we were able to splice the wires together (side of the road type repair for then) and found charging to be ok. i wanted to post this because like i said, others as it turns out have had this problem and i think everyone should check theirs. it is the plug with 3 yellow wires on one side and blue/black on the other. cant begin to guess why they melted like that other than at some point they must have loosened in the connector and started arching?? i am going to use buttconnectors and not use a replacement plug. hope this little check keeps everyone from having this failure someplace other than home, like me. fortunetly i was with friends and not out at some stopandrob parking lot a million miles from home. THANKS again Chy!!!!!!

Thanks for the info Myke. Appreciate it when the gang shares about a solution to a problem. Glad Chy was there to help too.

That's that connector found under the plastic cover, which is under the seat, correct? The 3 yellow wires come from the stator. It makes sense that there is a lot of current there but I fail to understand what failed. It must be (as you suggested) the wires in the connector came loose. This could be something we should all check.

Appreciate the info and glad you got it sorted out.

D'Ecosse may like to offer his expertise here on the Triumph Stator/R/R connector. What I've learnt from him and others on the Rat forum is that the aforementioned Triumph plug (actually it's a Yazaki plug) is not the best quality - it doesn't offer very large or secure contacts. Aftermarket connectors like these Furukawa connectors from Eastern Beaver are a much better option.

On this page is all the improved wiring for your R/R here. Ready made wiring kit for all your R/R wiring.

Those Furukawa connectors are specifically for the FH010/FH012 R/R's Richard and not for replacement of this type of application (there is no mating half for those, just the female to connect to the R/R)

I use & recommend MetriPack connectors



I actually keep these is stock & can supply if anyone needs them - at least in the US, quicker than getting from Japan.

The problem with the Yazaki connectors is it is just an unsealed connector (which allows elements to do their business!) and they are not a tight fit. Once the problem starts, it actually exacerbates as it heats, raises resistance higher and eventually melts - and even burns!



The problem can also be seen when people swap regulators and do their own terminal install - I have seem some horrendous examples of what happens when this is poorly executed.
This poor fellow actually had his (purely proactive) upgraded R/R install, even purchasing the nice MetriPacks, done by his DEALER - you can see the consequences - he is lucky his bike did not burn to the ground.





So it's not just choice of component, how it is executed is just as important.

I should add that in both examples shown above there was no other hardware failure - when the connectors were replaced, everything worked perfectly.

i am thinking about useing standard spade connecters in different colors. was wondering if there might be a reason not to?? i really cant think of one, so if anyone has a reason, please let me know. i use spade connectors all the time in high voltage (220vac) so i really dont see the problem.

Hey Newt,
You might try a boat/marine supply store for brass, rather
than steel, connectors. West Marine, or the like.
Uncle Charlie

I never looked at mine. So that unsealed connector is the stock component? I'll have a peek and may have to buy one of those sealed plugs.

Also make sure that your R/R is still good - if it was shorted, that would also create the problem.
You should be getting ~ 14V at battery with engine running.

Yazaki connector is nothing more than spade connectors with a plastic shell on.

so my question is still the same. what would be wrong, if anything, with useing standard spade connectors?? the plastic coated/sheilded type of course and label them for when they have to come apart. i looked at those connector boards the kids use in their cars for sound systems and they look pretty solid but am still thinking about the spade type. i am thinking that that is all that plug is, only contained in a plug and if i were to use a heavier style then what is internal of that connector plug??? what do ya'll think?? am i thinking wrong on this??

well, so far so good. i put them together with standard insulated spade connectors yesterday and went out for a 150mi ride. seems to be doing fine. i will be keeping an eye on it and if something go's phooey on me i will let ya'll know.

I found the same connector burned with one wire completely disconnected. Instead of replacing the connector, I spliced, soldered, shrink wrapped and taped all three wires. Several years ago, I did the direct wire with inline fuse from the regulator to the battery. Guess that had been taking the load after the P.O.S. connector failed.

Piece of feces

This is an interesting thread. Some of you may remember I recently had my second R/R fail in just on two years. Btw, after this second time, I did the positive charge wire with inline fuse direct to the battery so I could get a better charge.

Anyway, after reading about the poor oem connectors not working as well as the quality ones, it's made me think what if any part they may have played in the demise of my second R/R? it's probably just bad luck but if not, I wouldn't mind being educated by our more learned resident sparkies so I could at least do whatever I could to prevent a third R/R going on me in as many years.

Btw, yesterday I was able to replace the second stuffed R/R and found the 30 amp inline fuse was cooked and the headlight globe also burnt out. It then made me think that maybe I should replace that 30A fuse for a 10 or 15A fuse instead? Dunno really. I'm still confused what if any part these connectors had in my situation.

So I guess my question is, was the failure of my second R/R not simply bad luck but perhaps a symptom of these inferior connectors playing a part and as it turned out, keeping me stranded in some two horse country town.

It would certainly be a bit of a LOAD off (sorry ) if you know what i mean cos being stranded waiting for a replacement part instead of riding may not be as relaxing for some as if was for 'now-retired' me.

Same happened to me... Hard wired it!