Quote:

I have done three bar changes, one was a 1 1/4" - 1" bar and I have all ways got NON DIMPLED and drilled the wire holes where I wanted them for internal wires...seems like the problem is you are getting dimpled bars



Hi all,

Thanks for all the good suggestions, I will keep this on the light harted theme. Here is what the problem really is.

So you email subway sub and ask for tuna, no olives and cheese. You pay $300 for this and wait for it to arrive, where you find you have:

chicken, olives and cheese . At this point you can either take it back or cut out the chicken (re notch handle bar) and the olives (re internal wiring) , and buy some tuna on the internet(re new master cylinder).

You decide to take it back and get what you originally wanted, after all you have paid for it.

When you get home you find this time that you have chicken, no olive and no cheese, so you go back again and this time you get Chicken, no olives and cheese – i.e. 2 out of three. You decide to acept it and heat the chicken as its now cold ( re local fab shop torch the handle bars to flatten it) but burn the absolute crap out of it and the sandwich is well and truly *@&!

You are still hungry so rather than go and get a sandwich you let some one else get it for you and then AND HERE IS THE PUNCHLINE

After all this You realize you should have made the sandwich yourself as you used to work in a subway sub (re fab shop) but didn’t have any knives (re welding kit and pipe bender).

I suspect there is a guy out there with my tuna, no olives and cheese sandwich , who wanted chicken. Wouldn't be a problem if I could visit the place that makes them, show em my switch gear but I guess they are making so many they are in auto pilot

But yes it has nothing really to do with dimple or not, but the problem is when they don’t drill the bars where they weld the risers to the cross section of the T handlebar, there is absolutely no when of doing internal then.

That is the bar is bent and welded straight onto the riser, the riser is 10” long, bent and welded at the bottom with a bolt so you can’t even drill up the riser. His bars come as dimpled and holes drilled before welded at T bar section or non dimpled, if you drill at the collar all you will have is the wire coming through at the other side.

I know there are bars made for internal wiring, non dimpled, but I want dimpled, not a big difference I know but I am the kind of guy who likes all the slots on all his screws facing the same way

Last edited by BigNoseG; 09/23/2011 5:14 AM.