Thanks to
Mike at BellaCorse for clearing up the installation issues vis-a-vis the supplied gasket and sealant.
-The Pingel petcock I sell does not require any drilling, filing or and other modifications. It's a simple bolt-on install.
-Pingel claims 30% more gpm flow rate than the stock Mikuni petcock. Now, as to how that relates to power, I'd say that there is no real tangable performance gains with a stock engine, carbs etc. If you've spent the megabucks on FCR's, big bore kits, camshafts and pod filters, then's what's another C-note?
-Increasing the size of the Pingel to 3/8"NTP gains you absolutely nothing, performance wise. If you want skulls & flames milled into the sides, then you're covered.<sic> This larger size DOES require opening up the fuel tank opening by drilling or filing. Clean that tank thoroughly!!!
-The ergonomics of Pingel's smooth acting horizontally swinging lever is far more intuitive than the rotary dial on the stock petcock (IHMO). All the way forward is Off. All the way back is On. 1/2 between the two is reserve. How many of you ran low on fuel only to reach for your petcock and NOT remember if reserve is 9:00 position, or 12:00?
-The stock Mikuni petcocks are prone to failure. I base this comment on the feedback I get from my customers who are replacing them for no other reason than failure.
-The stock Mikuni petcock is not rebuildable.
-The paper gasket provided with the Pingel has been a source of problems with some customers. The sealant that Pingel provides seems to dissolve the paper UNLESS you allow it to tack-up first. Installing a fully wet paper gasket on both sides will cause to to tear once the base plate is tightened.
The proper technique -(IMHO)- is to apply a very thin coat of sealant to the gas tank surface and allow it to almost completely dry (still sticky to the touch, but not runny). Apply a thin coat of sealant to ONE SIDE of the paper gasket and allow it to almost dry, but still tacky.
At this point, you can install the base plate with the sticky side of the paper gasket facing the fuel tank. There is no sealant used between the base plate and the gasket. This is important should you ever need to remove the petcock. Tighten the two Allenhead screws lightly and allow the sealant to fully dry in a couple of hours. Then you can tighten the screws to the required torque and thread-on the petcock using a wrap or two of teflon tape.
-Do not overtighten the petcock as you can crack the threads if you go too far. A couple of exposed threads is perfectly fine. Use common sense (HA... that's laughable).
So there you have it. I'm the first one to tell you that if your stock petcock is working OK and you're fine with it's operation, then there is no reason to replace it. If you are having some petcock issues and/or you want to add some practical bling, them the Pingel is by far-and-away, a great item to have.
Mike
