Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods jets??????????

ok here we go i just got off the phone with the dealer i bought my bike off, they piped and jetted it there. They said my bike came stock w/ 115 or 120's in it and they upped it to 120 or 125's, left needle alone and did nothing with the mains? Why does this sound so wrong or is it i have been reading to much info and clouding my brain.if im using the jet calculator correctly it says 149 main jet. That to me is a hugh difference. thanks

you could be using the jett calculator wrong or the stealership could be screwing ya.

the mains were changed. perhaps you meant the pilots? Although the mains are too small.

Hey Todd... just ran your setup through Pat's jetting calculator and it shows 144 mains with TORS and duel K&N+Freaked. Is it possible the dealer rejetted BEFORE Freaking?

they said 120 or 125 those have got to be mains right? He said and im pretty sure i heard him right they never touch the pilots or the needle. which reminds me what do they mean by a thurxton needle is it just that the carb needle out of a thurxton and whats that do for you? The reason im asking all this is im having my bike dyno tuned in april and want to have all my ducks in a row so i dont look to stupid.
thanks

so should i wait till they run a dyno before i go changing and pulling jets out ( which i have never done alone)cause yes it was freaked after the 1st jetting. i honestly have no idea what the folks that put the freak in did to the jets?????
again thanks to you all for your info an patience with me never got into the tech side of riding but the older i get the more it calls to me.

How does the bike run? Probably like a lame duck.... If you aren't sure, you should let the fellows dyno tuning your bike set it up (sooner than later).

1. Your mains should be in the 145 to 155 size, give or take with your setup.
2. Your pilots should be 42 or 45 depending on where you set your idle screws. If you have the idle screws turned out more than 3 turns, go with the 45 pilots.
3. Your needles should be stock with a couple of shims or TBS needles for a richer mid range or Thruxton needles for the richest mid range although placing shims under the TBS needles will make them act like Thruxtons. The TBS and Thruxton needles help elliminate the mid range bog these bike tend to have once they are allowed to breath better.

These are just general settings from Greg's book....not written in stone.

+1. If you have the freak on there, small mains and nothing was done with the needles, it'll run like a slug. Do you know who put the freak on? That sounded wrong...

I would want to know what jets were in before the dyno.
You need to establish a starting point.
Review the info in the dyno threads, and charts.
Lots of good results there.

Hi Todd, the info you've given us is a bit confusing but we can pretty well safely say you are running way too lean if the stealer only upped your mains to 125.

This is my take on it:

We have had many stealer stories like yours where either they didn't know the difference between the settings of Thruxton to a SM, just didn't know much at all or just didn't care much.

That you are giving us confusing info may be a case of them being confused also and trying to bamboozle you with Bullsh*t.

Whatever, I suspect it's a case of a combination where if you really want your bike done right you have to learn to do it yourself.

To start with there are heaps of variables in setting up your machine to make it purr. With this in mind, and I'm sure Pat would agree, his calculator isnt gospel but a guide given it's been collated from other's experiences. The beauty is, our motors will run pretty well even if its not spot on.

Keep in mind there is at least two different types of Tors pipes for example. One thing is certain though, they are a tad more restrictive than other aftermarket pipes.

So with this in mind and your dealer not really knowing what the blood* h*** he was talking about, it's maybe time to take control of the situation and learn for yourself just how easy it is to change your own settings.

I'm assuming you've got the Triumph manual and if you don't, write me a pm and we'll discuss that one further.

As far as knowing if your running lean or not, from your info I'd be surprised if your spark plugs weren't scarilly light or even white. Meaning your running lean,which is not good for your valves.

From my experience I'd rather be running rich first and tweak for improvement from there.

I really can't stress enough the importance of teaching yourself how to do your own maintenance. Anyway, from my experience with my type of Tors, you really couldn't go wrong with 42 / 45 pilots, oem needles with a shim and 140 mains.

If you do decide to take things into your own hands, purchasing a set stainless steel hex screws is the very first requirement given the oem phillps heads are a joke. Also a set of pilot circuit air/fuel thumb screws are a must have.

Next is to procure the Triumph Manual followed by ordering Your parts and go for it.

Just keep in mind you have many well experienced fellow members only too willing to help.

Btw, pm me about the manual cos I may be able to help.

stacka

by the sounds of things i need to pull my carbs and jets before i go the only problem with that NEVER done it and not real confident in doing it. So i am at a loss atm.
Do i buy a dyno-tune jet kit or just afew single jets? Is the thurxton needle worth haveing installed?
i do appreciate all the help and insight into this "project"
thanks

You can buy the jets and needles individually for a lot less than the dynojet kit. You can also do the carb work without actually removing the carbs by pulling the float bowl. It's a bit of a PITA, but can be done. Sounds like you need to invite some local BA members over for a "Tech Day" and let em show you how its done. Not as hard as you probably think.

Also, I see you have a 2007 which is set-up (at least right now) similarly to mine. I'm running pod filters, freer flowing exhaust with 45 pilot jets one or two shims under the stock needles (i forget) and 135 main jets. The newer carburated bikes generally don't accept as big of a main jet as the earlier 790 motors, so if the jetting calculater is saying a 145 main jet, your bike might be better with a 135. That's just what I've learned through trial and error. I'm hoping once I get my new cams installed I will be runnign a 145 or bigger main jet.

wish some of you folks lived closer so i could get some hands on knowledge. I want to my local dealer and i use that word losly and in order to buy a jet i have to get 4 (stupid) cause they have to get them in a 4 pack. When do they do tech day and do they do any of them in maine?
again i cant say enough how much i apperciate all the help

Spot on. I've never had to remove my carbs. It does take a little while to get the knack but not an issue at all. For some reason a few are under the impression they have to remove the carbs because some on here suggest it. I reckon the suggestion puts any thought of carb work in the too hard basket. One thing I think is funny though is looking back
At my settings. Talk about a waste of fuel

It is really pretty simple once you get in there to the carbs. I'd love to come help you but I think the guys have given you great advice on 140 mains and 42 pilots. Make sure you check out pat dinquas site in the tech vault if you haven't yet. Gives step by step on changing jets. If you get stuck just ask. And I highly recommend pulling the carbs to change the jets. Heck my carbs have spent more time off than on this early spring. Haha. I'll send you a cool chart Brett from Australia sent me a long tome ago about how the carbs work tomorrow.

so say i put a 135 and a 45 and 1 shim on stk needle how will i know that its what i needed and not say a 145? it kinda seems like trial and error.anyone know what the stock pilot jets are for a 07 speedy?is putting a shim in going to anything bad?just trying to maximize the use of the dyno when i go. its looks to me like this 135 equals more fuel,1 shim equals more fuel,and not sure weather i will change pilots or not but more fuel seems like a good thing as long as the (mixture screw?) is set right or am i way off here?
thanks
Todd

http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_tuningparts.jpg

Ok I'm sorry I forgot to post this. Your main jets are effective from 3/4 throtle to WOT. A shim will improve 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. That mid range you hear about. Pilot jets are idle jets so only affect up to 1/4 throttle. Hope it helps out.

clean your pipes and watch for any soot deposits, if you see soot building up then you are way rich. For the pilot, disconnect 1 plug wire and ground it. Turn up the idle enough that it will stay running on 1 cyl. Turn the mixture screw on the cyl. that is firing in until it runs rough then back out until it runs rough. Count the turns between the spots where it starts to run rough. The correct setting 1/2 way between those 2 points. Repeat for the other cyl. and don't run it too long while working on it or you will eventually over heat the engine. A fan blowing on the engine will help with that. If you end up more than 3 turns out you should increase your pilot size.

Here is a chart I saved from this site that shows how the jets interact and when they come into play.

On behalf of all us apprentice types here, I sure appreciate your offerings here, Ian!

well i think i got it now keyword being think.From what i can gather i am going to get in there and see what is actually in there, going to move up to a 140/145, add 1 shim,and a 45, 3 turns out.Then send her to the dyno they should be able to do any fine tuning there once they run it with the sniffer on it correct?I would think the sniffer will be more accurate then me with the finer things.
I once again want to thank all of you folks for all your help.I am sure i will have many more questions before all is said and done.
Thanks,

Just got of the phone with my local funny farm (dealer) asked them if they could tell me what the stock pilot jet was in my bike and they couldnt!! Now i might be way off here but isnt that a question a dealer should be able to answer?

Good to know that we aren't the only ones with dealers like that.

I called my dealer a few days ago looking for mains and he didn't know what kind of carbs an America had and never called me back to sell me the confounded things. So post the dyno results and get some opinions to go along with the dealers suggestions. I'm just saying....

120 main and 42 pilot was stock if I recall.

I was just roaming around this site http://www.bikebandit.com/2007-triumph-speed-master/o/m17652#sch569096 i noticed that #9 main jet says its a 110. Are they saying it should have a 110 stock cause that would mean the dealership went to a 115 and from what i have been reading that is way small.I also find it funny that bike bandit can find the stock jet but my dealer could tell me what it was!!!!

I remember there being some bikes that had a 110 main stock but can't remember if that was later bikes or earlier bikes. our 04s both had 120 mains stock.

120 stock on my '03.

120 mains and 42 pilots on my 03 BA

My 03BA came with 42/120.
At the one GA RALLY I attended, I remember a bike from the
local dealer getting re-jetted, and it had diff jets from
one side to the other from the factory???????????????????
Think sneaky pete and others worked on it. I watched,
ate, and went back to the Raj Mahal to get shushed.
So, like with the valves, it's hard to determine change,
if you don't know what you started with.
This post will make sense to someone,
Uncle Charlie

hate to ask this but, i know i read it on here some where and couldn't seem to find it under the search.I was looking for a post on adjusting the air/fuel screw.Just so many threads
Thanks

Dis connect the opposite cyl to the one to be adjusted and ground that plug wire. Turn the idle up just enough to keep the bike running on 1 cyl. turn the mixture screw in until it runs rough, then back out until it runs rough counting the turns between those 2 points. The correct setting 1/2 way between the 2 rough spots. Repeat for the other cyl. Don't let the bike run too long while adjusting, don't want to over heat. You should have a fan or even 2 bowing on the engine to help cool it if possible.

Thats it i have been looking for hours lol.
thanks very much.I know this is a silly question but here it is anyway what is the best and safest way to ground the wire i pull off?
thanks again

Could put another plug in it and use a piece of wire to ground on some metal exposed part.They sell a spark tester like that, all it is is a plug with an aligator clip soldered to the threaded area.