Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech First valve shim check

Check your Yamaha dealer before going in. A huge DC-area dealership looked at me like I was an alien when I asked about the shims. Apparently that dealership just orders what they need. I guess they are not doing V-max valve jobs that often....

Hi Greg, I must be doing something wrong. I can't get the cam cover off without moving the coils. Is there a way of getting it off that I don't know about?

If removing the coils works for you then no reason why you can't do it that way. Just saying that I don't, that doesn't make your way wrong.

Nope Frank, You're doing nothing wrong. It would probably be easier to remove the coils but after working in the auto and heavy equipment industry as a mechanic for 18 years before getting into management in 1988, I always tried to get the most done with the least amount of work.

If I am set up, I can have the bike jacked up, the seat, tank and cam cover removed in less than 10 minutes. Remember, there are only 2 bolts for the seat and tank, a fuel line and 4 bolts for the cam cover ro remove. My cam bearing caps are all numbered with a center punch so there are 12 torx bolts along with 2 oil line banjo bolts to remove. Stick in the anti backlash spring pin retainers and go. The biggest job is fishing out the shims from the buckets.

If I was on flat rate, I could do it but since it is being done for pleasure, I take my time and enjoy. BTW, my wife complains that I caress the bike more than I do her......go figure

I have worked in the auto industry for many years as well Gregger, and I have also trained myself to disassemble as little as possible to do any given job.

Me, I'm a leftover parts - "where the heck does THAT go" guy. Glad to know that it's only a 1 hour job.

I've recently ordered some parts from the local Yami dealer and am having him rejet and dyno my bike. We'll see how that works out.

3+ years and I'm still ticked at my Triumph dealer's horn/brakelight diagnosis. I just can't let it go.

Steve, I wouldn't count on it being a "One hour job".
I KNOW it won't be for me.
If I finish in a short day, and it's SUCCESSFUL, I'll be happy!

I'm still a few thousand away - which means I should be out riding more, right?

Fellows,

The whole point for saying it can be done in an hour is just that....it can be done if you are familiar, have all the tools, parts and nothing breaks while removing. If it your first time, plan on an afternoon.

I looking forward to doing the valve adjustment myself. I've Gained a lot of confidence from you guys saying it's not too tough added to all the tips I've read here on the subject. And believe it or not... I'm gonna work on the carbs too for the first time. I'm enjoying getting more and more familiar with my bike from a mechanical pov. Couldn't o' gained the confidence without this site, that's for sure.

Hardest part of the valve adjustment for most has been getting the screws out of the bearing caps. Have more than 1 torx bit at your disposal. I only needed 1 but I am an experienced mechanic. Also DO NOT over tighten the banjo bolt for the oil feed to the cams that will break easily. Keep everything clean and I use a permanant sharpie to number the bearing caps and put and arrow on each pointing forward before removal to ensure they go back on the same place and way. DO NOT take the marked shim thickness for granted use a micrometer on every shim, both the old coming out and the new going in to be sure of the thickness. DO NOT use vaneer calipers. Intake and exhaust cams are different too so be sure they go back the same way in the same places. Once you have the new shims in and cams all tightened down make sure the sparkplugs are either out or at least disconnected and spin the engine a few times then check your clearances again.

Appreciate the info Ian... thank you!