I did the 1.38mm throttle plate air bleed mod. I simultaneously adjusted the float heights & pilot screw settings, thereby breaking my own rule of doing only 1 carb adjustment at a time. That said, I estimate that the larger air bleed alone moved the idle AFR a full point leaner.
I was shooting for a float bowl gasket height for the floats, as measured by the sight-tube method (clear hose hooked to bowl drain); the fuel level ended up being slightly higher (more fuel in bowl) than my intended target, but it's OK.
I don't see the need to drill the air bleed holes any larger. I'm sticking with this combo for now.
I also checked the carb vacuum to make sure they were properly sync'd, as I expected them to be off as a consequence of drilling the air bleed holes. To my amazement, however, they were still spot-on from the last pre-drill synch. Go figure.
To summarize, engine/power mods include the following:
TPUSA 813 Cams
TPUSA +3 Igniter
Uni 4229 Pod filters
Chevy 605 LC pipes
PVL (Nology) coils
TPUSA Magnecor Wires
BC AI Removal Kit
NGK IX Plugs
152 Keihin Mains (the brand matters)
45 Pilots
N3RF (TBS) Needles
Polished Slides with stock 2.5mm transfer port
Pilot Screws approx. 2&1/8 out
FZ1 slide springs
1.38mm air bleed holes in throttle plates
The motor is now much more responsive to the pilot screw settings with the throttle air bleed holes. Things are apparently now much better balanced for the lower vacuum demand (pods & cams), & the CV's are doing a good job of metering fuel. And I learned a few things along the journey.
This is now one happy, responsive motor.
