Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods Air Box Removal Kit

This is my first post here (though I have been lurking for a long time) and I am getting ready to remove the air box on my 08 BA. Ordered up a bracket from Tom, got my filters in the mail, already fabricated a carb supeort,etc. I have been trying to find a resource for the main and pilot jets abd ran across several recomendations to NOT remove the air box. One of these recommendations state the following:

"If you scrap the Triumph airbox you're going to have to find some pod filters to fit the carbs and either fabricate some sort of mounts for the side panels on the bike or scrap them too. You will have problems with pod filters because the CVK's are airflow operated and any slight variation between the inlet pressures can cause radically different behavior between the carbs. Inlet pressure differences can be caused by variables such as rain on the pods and airflow patterns around the bike when it's moving."

Any thoughts or comments from those of you who have done the converstion.

Did the same to mine last spring and haven't had any issues. Got caught in the rain a couple times as well.

many owners here ride with pods on their bikes with no issues. I own the freak kit which is decent and accounts for the brackets etc, also leaving a nice little cubby for storage and such where ther air box used to reside.

Installing the Freak with covers will prevent side winds and turbulence from blowing into K&Ns causing miss fire at high speeds.

Huh. Never noticed it myself.

Well I got everything pulled apart and removed today. Air box is out in one piece as is the old battery braket. I have lots of unused plugs in the harness, so I am thinking I might completely remove the harness and clean up all the wiring I don't need.

I was also wondering what everyone's solutions have been for the ingnition switch? There is only one screw available now that the bracket is out.

The ignition/fuse box portion is still used in the same spot and mounted with the lower bolt. I cut the battery tray so that the ignition portion is still intact, and reusable.

This was a revision based on another members suggestion. He assures that the lower mounting bolt is all thats needed. Since then theres been a handful of members with this setup and Ive never heard any complaints.

Feel free to PM me with any other specific questions, its not a problem.

I sent Tom a PM, but maybe some others have some recommendations for getting the K&N filters to stay on the carbs. As I tighten the clamps, it just pops the filter right off. There's got to be somethign silly I'm overlooking or not thinking about....right?

dont think I got the PM

the trick is to not tighten them really at all...haha. Its crazy but it works. Too much pressure just squeezes them off. I had problems when I first got the bike, lost the right side down the road once or twice. Then stuck some wire on the side just in case and played around with how tight I'm making them. Its been since 07 since I lost one and I dont have the wire anymore as a safety.

Also you get yourself some wider hose clamps. I cant remember if I'm using the k&n ones or some wider stainless ones that came from the original owner. A wider clamp will get you a bit more bite at the end of the rubber edge. Thats really where the pressure needs to be.

yup its a bit of a trick, push them in all the way and then tighten them to the extent that the rings are snug but not crushed, you don't want to squeeze those boots to hard anyways you can split, crack or let some air in past the filter, just nice and snug. I have a friend of mine (and i might try this) who puts a little bit, like a smear of shoe goo (bought at any hardware store) around the inside of the filter opening then seats it on the carb snugs it up, waits for it to dry and done, water tight, won't hurt any rubber, and when you remove it it peels off sort of like when you put white glue on your hands.

Peronally i think shoe goo is way up there with gopher tape.

hmmm...well I guess I will just snug them ever so slightly and see how that works. I'm gonna use the safety wire though...just in case.

Hope you haven't deformed the end already or you may need to replace them to get them to stay on.

Well today was the first ride and I beat it up pretty good trying to find flat spots in throttle response and the filters stayed put...I'd of never bet on it, but just as you guys stated, a little snug is all ya need.

Now I have tio fidd;e with some things to get the carbs dialed in. I get a backfire through the carbs every now and again when I'm sitting at idel and rev it a tad. I started with 42/135 and no shims, but let the mixture screw alone...maybe a half a turn in will do it....we'll see tomorrow.

sounds like youre probably lean on your idle circuit. Air mixture screws need to be let out a bit if I remember correctly. Max to let them out is 3.5 turns. If youre still lean, bump up your pilot and screw the air screws in and work your way back out.

Its been a while, I'm just testing my memory at this point. Someone will jump in if I got it wrong. Ian the dogg taught me this ****** a long time ago...haha.