Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods TPUSA 813 Cams & Igniter Remap

Hey, BO2S4
Currently: 07 865/270 stock pistons; OEM CVK carbs, Uni pods (UP-4229), 152.5 mains, NBZT Thruxton needles, no shims, Kawasaki GPZ slide springs, 45 pilots with pilot screws 1/3 turn out; TPUSA 813 cams; TPUSA Igniter Remap +3/8250; long TORS; IX plugs; & AI gone.

I too, have the innovate system on my bike.

LM-1 brain box; LC-1 kit; RPM kit with Inductive Clamp.

I welded bungs on a used set of headers and installed an O2 sensor in each.


My setup: 2007 America. 130 mains, 40 pilots, (1.5 turns left and 1.75 turns right) Thruxton Needles, De-baffled stock slash cuts(reducer cone still installed),Vance & Hinds baffle to soften it up a little, Uni-Filter, drilled box, Snorkel removed.


I’m currently running 12.2–12.4 Air Fuel Ratio at 900–1050 RPM
At 2800-3200 RPM cruise; 13.2-13.7 AFR
At 3200-3900 RPM cruise; 14.0-14.5 AFR
A 5200 RPM Wide Open Throttle, AFR drops down to 11.4-12.8


I’m thinking of dropping my mains from 130 to 125, hoping to remove the dip below 13.0 AFR at wide open throttle.

I invested in 2 vacuum sensors to hook up to the carbs and tie in to the Innovate system so as to monitor and balance at all engine conditions.

This is quite an investment, but the knowledge absorbed is priceless!
Once I started,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,like I could’nt stop.
I thought I was almost done a month ago. Again, I’m almost done.

The bike with all the wires and sensors hooked up front to back isn’t pretty, but, I’m almost done.

Below are some pic’s of the setup.

Are you sure you have 40 pilots? I thought the 2007 models had 42 pilots stock. Anyway, those A/F measuring devices look pretty cool and have to be a big help in jetting correctly. I'm still using the SOTP method on my 2007 America. Currently running homemade pipes, Uni pod filters, 45 pilot jets, 135 main and a shim under the stock needle, Nology coils & hot wires. I so want to do the cam swap. Maybe next winter.

I’m absolutely sure.
My bike came with 40’s. I verify each with a 10X loupe.
I’ve flip-flopped them 4 times with 42’s cause of skepticism.
42’s work, but needle settings are ¼ left and ½ turn out right.(4 times with same results)

One major improvement I cannot believe I skipped is FLOAT LEVEL.

Stock is 17mm. I raised it to 16mm, meaning I raised my fuel level in carb (da).

I never paid attention to it for 2 months till I thoroughly and slowly read this web site (I read this web site over and over).

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html


Float level affects all area’s engine performance. Idle, cruise, WOT from any RPM’s.

I’m a little slow, I’m guessing SOTP means,,,,,,, “seat of the pants”.

Quite a few web sites say 13.0 is the power number. 14.7 is the economy.

You can see(I can see) on the graphs from a 14.0 AFR cruise speed to WOT, it doesn’t really pull till it hits 13.2 down to 12.8(please, no quotes) .


I'm starting to wander,sorry

Yep, Seat Of The Pants method for me so far. But nothing like an A/F sensor to take the guesswork out of the process. This website has been like a giant tutorial on carb tuning for me too. Never would have started playing with the carbs without the guidance and direction provided by BA.com.

I am in the midst of fine tuning my FCRs using a LM2 with a similar mess of wires and cables running all over the bike, great tool, oxygen sensor in the cross over pipe. I had set up the carbs earlier this year when the weather was still bad (use the LM2 in the garage) and thought that I was pretty close. I finally got some time to ride the SM and noticed that I was running a bit hotter (oil temp) than I would care for. I hooked up the LM2 and started riding around, different A/F numbers than setting still in the garage and working the throttle. I found that I was getting A/F over 14 at 1/2 throttle and cruising. 12.2 -12.8 idle to 1/4 throttle. So I am lean on the middle and top end. I will feel more comfortable when I get the A/Fs back down into the high 12's low 13' across the board.

The tuning really needs to be done out on the road, or at least on a dyno & fine-tuned on the road. The A/F meter is great.

Mine idles high 12's to 13 when fully warmed; generally cruises anywhere from mid 12's to low 13's depending on conditions; WOT generally runs between 12 - 13, with a brief dip to 11 going from 4K - 6k (attributed to the needles, even with no shims) & high 12's to 13 nearing the limiter.

The mains are spot on. The NBZT needles are pretty good (if they could be lowered maybe .4mm or so I would do it)& have yet to find something better; & the pilot screws are only about 1/3 turn out. No decel popping.

My 07 had 42 pilots, stock.

Currently: 07 865/270 stock pistons; OEM CVK carbs, Uni pods (UP-4229), 150 mains, N3RF TBS needles, no shims, Kawasaki GPZ slide springs, 45 pilots with pilot screws 1/3 turn out; TPUSA 813 cams; TPUSA Igniter Remap +3/8250; long TORS; IX plugs; & AI gone.

This is the best combo so far. It's been so darn hot recently that I am reluctant to optimize the tuning for this weather.

I'm going to reinstall the stock springs & see what happens...

Currently: 07 865/270 stock pistons; OEM CVK carbs, Uni pods (UP-4229), 150 mains, N3RF TBS needles, no shims, OEM slide springs, 45 pilots with pilot screws 1/3 turn out; TPUSA 813 cams; TPUSA Igniter Remap +3/8250; long TORS; IX plugs; & AI gone.

The slides don't seem to open as fast with the OEM slide springs v. the GPZ springs, but the A/F is more consistent.

The motor is still a touch rich on the needle & at idle. It is so hot that it does not really matter though, as when it gets cooler the A/F should automatically lean out a bit.

When it gets cooler if the motor is still running a touch rich then I'll experiment with 42 pilots. The 45 pilots were necessary with the GPZ springs, but that is not so with the OEM springs.

I may try to find alternate slide springs that are as long as the OEM springs and have the same rate as the GPZ springs. I personally think the OEM springs are too much, & the GPZ springs are not enough.

The weather improved this PM. With temps in the mid 70's the A/F is basically where it ought to be.

The carbs have the OEM stock slides, I'll measure it next time they are out.

My theory is that mods which reduce vacuum demand on CV carbs, such as Uni pods, will require lighter slide springs to get the most out of the mods. But how much? Experimentation to follow.

I reinstalled the GPZ springs after stretching them out a bit so they increased in set about 5mm longer in overall free length. I like the overall performance of the stretched GPZ springs better than the OEM springs, so they are staying in for now.

There is still a mild lean spike with the stretched GPZ springs, which I can see on the A/F meter, but there is no hesitation & but for the meter I wouldn't know it was there.

I plan to test some other springs within the next week or two. Stay tuned!

CV carb tuning portion of this thread continued here: CV Carb Tuning