Bart,
Read Dinqua's carb 101/rejetting guide. It's
right here I just went through rejetting my 07 TBA. It's really a fairly straightforward job, but plan on allotting extra time to get the carbs out & back in. I spent more time taking things apart and putting it all back than the actual rejetting (that was darn easy.). I figured it would take me an afternoon, I ended up spending all weekend on it (plus a few other changes to my bike). You will need an extra long (~6") allen head wrench to access the screws holding the air filter housing from the rear wheel well. And make sure the bike is up on a list, securely tied down.
Dinqua's carb 101 is good, but I found some discrepancies. For instance, I had to remove the chain guard to access the allen head screw. He also said it was 8 mm, mine were 6 mm.
Disconnecting the TPS was a pain, best have someone help you with that and use a small flat tip screwdriver to unclip it.
Be very careful with the bowl screws. 7 of them came off no problem for me. The last one, the phillips head slot gave out and we had to work to get that screw off. Have new SS allen head screws ready to replace them, do not re-use the old bowl screws.
You will want M4x0.7x8mm for the carb tops, M4x0.7x16mm for the bottom ones that hold the idle adjuster and M4x0.7x14mm for the others.
I still ended up with a leaky left bowl and had to call my friendly dealer to bring the bike in the shop and fix it. They said it was dirt in the float preventing the float from working properly. I dunno, I checked the float twice and she seemed leak tight.
Do not play Neanderthal man and torque the bowl screws. Tighten them snug, don't overdo it or you can end up having to buy a new carb.
If you're really apprehensive, best to call the dealer and ask them how much to do it the first time.
Good luck!
