It wasn't long ago I Suggested to the author of the jetting calclator (Dinqua - Pat) it might be an idea to update the J calculator and he agreed but having done so much earlier on in the game, he just rightly believes someone else should be stepping up to the plate. Fair enough I reckon.
You see, the calculator was collated from a number of members at the time (like 6 years or More ago) when we were still learning heaps about these bikes and there was still just a little bit of subjective opinion in the mix.
So now whilst some may disagree which is par for the course, I and Pat did agree the calculator was and does suggest jets should be just slightly on the rich side than the opposite. Better that than lean though.
Anyway you asked the question so IMHO and after having SS pipes myself which are pretty much identicle to Bubs In there breathing capacity being straight through pipes, and with K&N's etc, my suggestion as a start would be:
1. 45 pilots (definitely)
2. Stock needle with 1, perhaps 2 shims ( 2 cos of elevation) and,
3. 150 mains.
My reason for these suggestions is, I had my bike dynoed with these settings and the numbers and a/f ratio was sweet.
The reason for the 45 pilots is, I couldn't even get my bike to run properly with the 42's.
The stock needle with one shim helps in not trying to do too much too soon, otherwise you can end up chasing your tail.
Finally the 150 mains gets back to the calculator being a tad rich. I realise you don't want to run lean at your altitude cos I was at 2000' but if in doubt another shim on each needle should prevent any doubts there.
Then when you feel the response from nil to wot on your bum dyno is good, work out your fuel consumption and check your plugs as a basic indicator to previous readings to see if you're on the right track and if so, I'd see how thruxton needles go with no shims and debateably 42 pilots. I've found the mid range using the thruxtons are brilliant but I have staintunes now without restrictors which change things a bit.
It also wouldn't be a bad idea to have a look at the dyno table (sticky at the top) to compare the various results and settings to get a good picture on what and why. After all, that's the idea of the thing in the first place.
Of course you still can't beat an experienced operator on an up to date dyno to confirm you're on the right track once your bum dyno is satisfied and other readings correlate.
Yeah, it's a bit of a puzzle to start with and sometimes different bikes just have their own mind but once you feel you're close to nailing the sucker, there's no better feeling (except the obvious of course LOL)
Good luck
staffo
Last edited by Staffo; 03/24/2010 8:39 AM.
