Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods Air/Fuel Mixture screw

I am installing a new set of D&D slip-ons on my '06 America and they came with new main/pilot jets and .020 needle shim. The recommend adjusting the air/fuel screw to 3 turns.

My question is, I have found the location of the screw but am not sure if it has a cap or not. I looked on Dinqua's site and he mentions that for a '04 they have a 'D' shaped plug. Mine looks like a 'D' shape too.

Do you remove this and the screw itself is a 'flat' head screwdriver? Is there a tool for this? Can you adjust this/remove the cap with the carbs on?

Any help would be appreciated.

Nope,

The screw in itself has a D shaped head.

You will need a special tool if you want to leave them in and adjust them accordingly.
http://www.fasteddysports.com/?page_id=3&product_id=697

Me, I used a piece of clear plsstic tubing that provides just enough friction to get them out, then replaced them with a thumbscrew... much easier!
http://www.fasteddysports.com/?page_id=3&product_id=682

The D is the head of the screw, you either need a D tool or you can flatten the side of a piece of brake line to make one. A thir option is to use hemostats or small nedle nose pliers to remove the screw and carefully cut a slot in it for a flat head screw driver. I did the latter. If you are 3 turns out or more you should replace the pilot jet with a larger jet.

Thanks, just purchased the tool from FastEddy.

The main jet sent is a 115 and the Pilot is a 45.

Do you know if I have to remove the carbs to take out the pilot jet? I have removed the bowls before and replaced the main, but not the pilot.

Thanks for all the info (Dog too)

If you have a 115 main in there might as well order a bigger jet too. 45 is the main you want but you will probably need a 135 more or less if the air box is still stock if the air box is modified or removed then larger according to the amount of change done.

Thats the jets that came with the pipes from D & D. They also sent a K & N filter which I already have. Also included was an AI removal kit which is already completed.

The airbox is stock except for the snorkle removed, ordered a bellmouth.

I'll start with them as they paired these with the pipes.

Thanks for your info.

These bikes come stock with 120 mains. Should have gotten at least 130 with the pipes. With air box mods probably 135 or so. I used to run 130 mains with stock de-baffled pipes and a hole in the bottom of the air box.
You don't have to remove the carbs to change the pilots.

Lon,
I ordered 130 mains 2 years ago. I haven't looked too closely at it yet (although it will need to be done after the Bubs are on), but do I have to remove the carbs to change the mains?? I think I have a pair of 45 pilots somewhere as well. I know I have the D-tool.
Thanks in advance,
Steve

With a little patience and armed with the proper screwdriver (and I do mean a perfect fit for the pilot) and 8mm wrench you can drop the bowls and change all of the jets. A small mirror, like one from a woman's makeup compact, is an able assistant; also, a white towel on the engine cases to catch the errant screw can be very handy.

To me the most difficult moment came with the two float bowl screws that double as the idle adjustment holders. It's tight quarters and the screws just seem a skosh short for the job.

Hmmm...sounds like it might be best to take the fuel tank off for easier access around the carbs. Maybe just pull the carbs, make things really easy!!! After struggling, this weekend, with trying to re-install 2 stupid bolts for the beautiful Dart flyscreen (now I know why they assemble the bikes in Thailand, they have small hands over there!!), I have no patience/tolerance for dealing with tight quarters or little brass pieces dropping on me.

I'll probably install the sweet looking black finned "carb caps", that Brent sells, at the same time. They should complement the black finned oil filler cap I put on.

Do I need to re-balance the carbs if I change the pilots and mains?

Personally I advise to remove the carbs the first time so you can familiarize yourself with them and the layout of the parts also makes getting the screws out the first time much easier. I would then replace the bowl screws with stainless allen head screws for ease of future work.

Wouldn't hurt to balance.

Be careful with the length since some can bottom out and strip easily, I had to grind just a little off of some of the ones I bought. Can't remember the length anymore but the thread is 4mm X 0.7.

If you're going to pull the carbs (which I think is a great idea) you can't go wrong with Pat's most excellent pictoral tutorial.

Quote: Wouldn't hurt to balance.

I've gotten to where I check the carb balance after making any adjustment to the carbs. I check it at idle and run it up to around 3400 steady and average between the two if different. It makes a world of difference cutting vibration and running smoother.

OK, I started to work on the carbs, Figuired I start with the left side, seemed to be the hardest, anyway, I started with installng the shims first, unscrew the cap, pull the spring and holder, pull the needle out, put on shim, put back together. Go around to the right side and do same thing but when I pull the needle out I see something on the needle. What's this? a shim? What this about?

I had TORS installed on the bike by the Dealer before I picked it up. Did they put the shim on? Do they come stock with shims?

What happened to the one in the left side if there was one? If there was its most likley in the bottom of the needle area.

I didn't see one but there could have been. Also, the top sections of the needles had a lot of black 'soot' on them. (Running rich I guess)

I think I'll have to redo the left side again to check for a shim. They appear to be fatter than the ones I am installing (.020)

Any thoughts?

I have TORs too and when I did mine it was exactly the same,no shim on the left and one on the right side.That cant be a coincidence(can it)
I wonder if it was a dealer standard practice....cant be right,it makes no sense.

Yeah, I agree, My left pipe did blue abit and the right is ok.

I'll check this weekend to see if I 'dropped' the left side in the body.

Yep, it was there in the bottom.

Thanks Moe for the advice.

Looks like you have done some 'tinkering'?

Never put the 115's in. Running 135 mains and 45 pilots. stock needles with a .020 shim. Seems to be running fine. Air screws at three turns out.

I have the K & N with the Bell Mouth

Yes, the D & D's do 'Growl' don't they?