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moe is right, after investigation, the switch is not like the Thruxton switch which has no stud on it. You will need 2 new washers and need to bleed the system. Good luck.



Well, yesterday, after the rear brake switch checked out okay per a continuity check, I got on cinnamon girl and rode her a bit. So what it took me 9 weeks to get round to it. While at a red light, I side-standed her, dismounted to the right and observed a brake light on. grrr. Went home let her cool a bit then using a 1/2" drive 22mm socket on the switch (the ratchet could not fully engage the socket -clearance issues) and an open end 3/4" wrench holding the brake fluid junction steady, broke the switch free. Real easy.

Easiest to work on the switch from the right side of the bike while the bike is on the sidestand not on a jack. Great angle of view and real easy to get it all cleaned up. Don't want any debris around when the switch comes off so the new one can go right back on. Two new oem sealing washers (banjo washers) and one new switch. Lost about 4 teaspoons of brake fluid. (1 tablespoon and 1 teaspoon). Did not have to bleed the system afterward either. Topped off the reservoir more due to worn linings than due to what dripped out. Can't really get a torque wrench on the switch (15Nm) but 15Nm is an easy feel.

Fixed the lectric issue with the lightbar too. Chafed hot wire right bucket.
Dropped a K&N filter in and pulled the snorkel. Great Sunday. Too bad it was 94 degrees.

130/42 3.5 no shims,no snorkel,single K&N,D&Ds

Blowing gravel off rural roads