I used the
SRS Chrome dual horn wiring kit which includes a relay, fuse and all the wiring (plug & play). It is excellent - and made in Brisbane.
I forgot that the Stebel horns come with a relay so if you're handy with a soldering iron you can easily make your own. There is wiring diagram on the back of the Stebel box.
INSTALLATION:
Disconnect the stock horn and bracket. Feed the wiring back through the frame to the relay (which I zip tied to the frame under the tank). The power feed comes from the positive terminal on the battery. This wire needs a fuse (20-25amp) on that line (I positioned the fuse connection under the seat and on to the relay. Feed a new wire from the relay to horn A. Bridge from the same connection on horn A to the same terminal on horn B (those are your positive feeds). Connect horn B to earth somewhere on the frame. I used the bolt for the rear brake reservoir. Piggyback the earth feed from horn B to the earth on horn A. That's wiring done.
I fabbed a couple of simple brackets. There are some brackets supplied with the Stebel which could do the trick with some simple mods. I positioned the horns pretty much where the stock used to be. One mounted off the same bolt as stock. The other (with a slightly longer bracket bent in a slight dogleg) monted off the top left oil radiator bolt.
I will take some photos this weekend of the brackets and positioning if you want.
I also painted the silver backs of the horns black.
IMPORTANT: If you have LED bulbs in your dash they MAY flash momentarily when you use the horns because they are on the same earth circuit as the horn switch and these LEDs are sensitive little buggers. This had me freaking out thinking I was about to fry my EMC. But finally, after a few desperate threads on this site, worked out that this phenomenom is harmless - just a momentary miniscule power surge I guess - or electrical backwash (some electrical engineers might like to give a more technical explanation).
