Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Exhaust Off Road Triumph Pipes Debaffle

There have been a lot of posts where removing the baffles from stock pipes have been documented. I have the short slash cut "off road" Triumph pipes and pulled the baffles out of there. It was quite a bit different from the process described for the stock pipes, so I thought I'd post my saga. It definitely wound up taking longer and being more complicated than I expected.

The first thing I did was take a 2 & 1/2" hole saw and cutting through the back of the pipes while they were still attached to the bike. That exposed the baffle and filling:



I borrowed a tool from a member here that had gutted some stock pipes and my plan was to drill into the pipes around the baffle until the first one came out. What I didn't know at the time is that there is only one baffle - an extremely long one that can't be drilled out the way I was trying to make it happen.

I spent a few hours trying some different tactics like trying to use a pry bar and hammer to knock the welds loose, but to no avail. That's when I got smart and decided to take the pipes off the bike and remove the baffles from the front end. When I removed the pipes I noticed what looked like a metal cup wedged down into the pipe with a baffle in the middle. My 1 & 3/8" hole saw was a perfect fit to drill a hole right in the center. Once the metal cup was loose I used a screwdriver to pop it out of there. It looked like this when I was done:



I then took a 1 & 1/2" hole saw, cut it in half, and welded some pipe between the two pieces. This was the end result:



The tool was exactly the right size to slip over the baffle and still fit inside the small end of the pipe. I used slow RPMs and cutting oil to finally pop that baffle loose! The insides of the pipes were covered with a fiber fill that was taped to the inside of the pipes. I scraped the tape loose from the wall of the pipes using my pry bar, and pulled the stuffing out with a pair of plyers. Here's what it looked like with the baffles removed:



The pipes sound super awesome now. I still need to rejet and will be doing that very shortly. I ordered 130 mains and 45 pilots. I have the AI removed but the factory airbox is still in place. That will probably be one of the next things to go. For anyone interested here's what the baffles I pulled out look like:



Hope this was helpful and I'll post back to give an update on my rejetting efforts.

There was a member on this site that did the same exact thing with his hole saw. Then for the longest time his tool was circuling thru from member to member until it was never heard from again. Maybe you could re-start the tool lending tradition all over again.
Anyway, nice imformative post.

That metal cup is the reducer cone that I and others have said should be left in for back pressure so you don't lose your bottom end torque.

Reducer cone eh? Well it's in the garbage now so I'm just going to have to do without it. As a side note, that cone was sitting pretty loosely in the pipes, so I'd worry about it rattling free and clanging around in there. Maybe that's not an issue.

I rejetted from the factory 120s to 132s and like the results. Going to rejet again after I remove the factory airbox.

The earlier ones were straight through like glass packs. The newer ones have a baffle system similar to stock pipes, maybe 1 less baffle or something.

So, are they a good deal better than stock, or would
you be better off with after market pipes?

Although it's supposed to have the opposite effect, this thread baffles me.

When I bought my bike new in '05 the parts guy showed me the accessory leaflet and there were long TOR's and short ones but he told me there was a third one that was only in the parts listing so he got me them. when the box came the tag said "short silencers, Extra loud". They were the short TOR's with the straight thru glass pack. I'm guessing the other ones listed in the leaflet were the baffeled ones? My 2 cents...

The long TORS on my 07 SM are straight-through with a core presumably wrapped with packing.

+1 on the extra loud not being too loud but in defence they are probably the loudest you can get direct from Triumph for our bikes. I run straight pipes now with out a loss in bottom end or any trouble from the 5-0...

The part number on the box for the "extra loud" ones is
p/n A9608027

So is this the way to remove the baffels from the s-tor's? Go through the front? How do you replace the reducer if you wanted to?

Well, it's not necessarily THE way, it's just the way I did it. You would have to replace the reducer cone with a home made one since I drilled the center out of mine. I haven't noticed any loss in power with it gone. I also rejetted from 120 mains and 40 pilots (stock) to 132 mains and 45 pilots.

Or I suppose you could pop that cone out, weld a piece of sheet metal over the opening and drill out the center to the desired size.

I debaffled my TORs. Well, a partial debaffle I guess. Just take the silencers off the bike and use a 3/4" hole saw in the front (the end that mates with the header), there are two plates you have to drill through, then you're done. Nice loud pipes and very free flowing; they also preserve that low end torque - it's like they were made to be drilled. If your not satisfied (which I'm sure you will be) you can go on to remove the insulation and then to remove the perf-tube. Before performing a complete gutting, try putting on a pair of straight pipes or no silencers at all, this will give you an idea of the sound and performance - I did this (you can buy a pair of tips for about $30) and didn't like it, huge torque loss, and sounded too much like a tractor.