I wouldn't worry about the warranty, you can reset the ECU back to standard with the program at anytime and no-ones the wiser.
I have k & N pods on. As far as the loss in HP the graphs I posted are without the turn outs on. I don't know why it drops off before the rev limiter cuts in! I can say after riding many bikes in my life it is a sweet ride throughout the revs for the size of cubes that it is.
I mean it's not going to pull Jesus off the cross but again quite torquey for its out put.
I have left the O2 sensors insitu just to block the holes.
AI is completely blocked off. Unlike the carb models though you do not plug up the hoses running from the injector housing (fake carbies) it will run like crap if you do.
I still have the unit sitting up under the tank, I just put some bolts in the head (apparently nissan sump plugs are a fit).
If you still have the air box insitu a 17mm ball bearing in the hose running from the box will do the same.
In hindsight I wouldn't spend the $300 odd dollars on a freak airbox removal kit, I think the battery relocation mod looks the go, but because of all the wiring to the ECU it is going to prove to be a bit of a headache I think to reroute.
The other option is to keep the original airbox, add a K & N and bell mouth, You will gain just as much in my opinion.
I hope that all makes sense, I have been on the Wild Turkey.
Bloody crikey I love Bourbon
