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If the other poster is correct then removing the needle has no effect whatsoever on idle mixture. Is that correct? After all, whether the needle is shimmed or removed is just a matter of detail if the needle has no effect on idle mixture, all other things equal.
What I actually said is that the mains circuit should have no effect on idle. I can only guess what happens when you modify the factory circuits by removing essential parts. Maybe removing the needle altogether allows a small amount of fuel to dribble out of the jet, even when there's no airflow. Let's try to keep this in perspective, eh? The main circuit is not your problem - assuming there actually is a problem. It sounds rather like your carbs might be very close. Incidentally, lots of high-perf motors soot the plugs during extended idle. You know, I really dislike the plug-color voodoo that seems so popular in these forums. It's an urban myth that's absolutely useless on machines like these. In more than 40 years of working with hi-perf motors (only as a hobby, thank gawd), I've yet to meet even one street driver/rider/builder who could tune a motor correctly by examining the plugs. The quarter milers and other WOT racers get it right sometimes, but the rest of us don't ride that way. If you're concerned that there's more to gain at this point, and/or you're disappointed with the performance of the motor, do the dyno. Nothing else will tell you what you want to know.
'08 America Blue/White; Custom Headlamps, Custom Lowers, Clearview 20", Bafflectomy
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