Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods Rejetting the carbs

I have looked at Dinqua's site and read a lot of posts here and have noticed some differences. Dingua's site and the instructions contained therein describe a minimum 2.5 hour procedure. Posts I have read here and on triumphrat.net say members have completed a rejet in 20 minutes. What gives? That's a huge time difference in performing the same procedure. Are some of the members her just THAT fast, or do they know something that isn't common knowledge?

If i recall Dinqua's tutorial shows him removing the carbs to do it. IF i recall that is, but i could swear i remember that. And that would indeed make for that huge time difference. You don't need to remove them and i think the reason he probably did is so he could take shots of the jets for nhis webpage cuz ther'd be no way to take pics easily with the carbs on.

i've done it a number of times and it never takes more than 20 min/Half hour at the most. needles take even less unless i drop a shim in the slide and have trouble getting it out. look at it this way.....loose3n a screw on the carb to drain then bowl, then take off 4 screws and your there. it would only take about 2 minutes if not for the trouble of removing the screws in such a tight area. thats why you really MUST get those allen head screws when you first do it or subsequent times will be much tougher.And if you have small hans it might even take less time. But in any case 2-1/2 hours is enough to rejett many times !

In my opinion, after you've done it once by sliding the airbox back and removing the carbs, and replacing the bowl screws with the allen head screws, you should be able to do it in less time when you're familiar with the procedure.
I believe others have even done it by removing the bowls with the carbs in place. I have not, so I can't verify the time needed, but unless you have the hands of a teenage girl and eyes mounted on stalks, I would think it would still take more than 20 minutes...... just my opinion.....

If you've removed the airbox there's alot more space available to get to the bowl screws. And as stated above if you've replaced the screws with allen heads then its still easier. So yes it could be dont in a half hour. It usually takes me about an hour, but I take alot of breaks.

Anyone have the size of the replacement allenhead screws (thread, diameter and length)? I want to pick some up on the way home from work.

M4 x 14 quantity = 8
M4 x 8 quantity = 8
M4 Washer quantity = 16

Brent has them for $6 for the whole set.

http://www.newspeedmaster.com/html/carb_screw_kit.html

Cruiser,
I think Dinqua documented the long route, which was his intent so rookie wrenchers could figure it out.
I can rejet in 20 minutes now, with screws from Brent.

The screws for the bowls are M4-.7, 15 mm long.
None of my regular suppliers had them so I had to stick with the Phillips head screws for now. Now I have 142 main, 45 pilot. Took it for a ride afterwards and it seems to run fine. I didn't get a chance to really get it moving as it was 17 degrees here when I rode and I didn't feel like taking it on the highway at that time.

And tonight I'm drilling the airbox BWAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!!

Just a little tip before you do. Stick something, probably some cloth or the like in the 2 restrictor plate holes that lead to the carb side of the restrictor plate so no plastic shavings/dust gets in there. Anything that does get thru there you won't be able to remove and could get sucked into the carbs. Then once done do a painstaking cleanup of the box in the filter area to get every spec of dust out.

Also, to get max flow dremel the bottom of the filter after you cut it out to enlarge it to the same size as the top and so the hole is smooth and oval shaped the same as the top. Then dremel the bottom of the airbox to match leaving the little stops that stick up and hold the bottom of the filter in place. I've seen some other who posted pics and the holes weren't as large as could be. And if you're gonna do this it seems wastefull to not get all the flow you can. Good luck. (oh, and get a UNI or K&N if you don't already have one)

Also, if u have a shop vac, u can run it as u dremel to suck it out as you go.

20 minutes?
I can swap my jets in about 10 minutes now, really!
Allen wrench and jets, badda bing, done.

The first time you do them it does take a lot longer, twice as long as you think it will. After that, you get the feel of it and can do it blindfolded if you do enough of them.

Really, 15 minutes if the ss allen heads are on the carbs, Airbox or not.

A HUGE time saver, remove the rear shocks so you can get to the rear airbox screws. If the bike is on the lift and you drop the rear wheel down (remove pipes too so you don't bang them up) and zoom...airbox slid back.

But "Why?" you ask. You need to,(ok, should)completely remove the carbs one time to swap the screws out to the allens, after that, just drop the bowls to swap jets. That is the whole reason behind the allens.

It got up to 36 degrees here last night and the snow melted/roads dried up. I was finally able to get the bike out for a good eval on how it's running now. The setup is now stock pipes with three baffles gone, K&N drop-in, snorkle removed, AI gone, 132 mains, 45 pilots, air screws still stock setting (access still blocked by the factory plugs). I got it on the highway and opened it up. Pulls strong through full RPM range and hit 100mph(160kph) faster than before. Felt VEDDY nice all through the gears. Popping on decel is less than before. All in all, I'm rather pleased with my results.
Next - throttle control and gin up a modified "Freak" at half the cost.

Someone told me local Honda dealer had jets for the Klein carbs. I need to rejet but have not taken time to call. If he does not have them where would be a good place to start looking. Closest Triumph Dealer is 31/2 hours away.

My local honda dealer did not have the Keihin CVK 36 jet's in stock, but was willing to order them for me. Takes about the same amount of time as Brent's to arrive and they were a $1 cheaper a pair.

No offense Tom but I'd rather give my money to Brent as he supports this site.

keep in mind that extra 1 doller you spend gives brent that much more to keep developing parts for our bikes. we do not have to many options out there and he has developed a lot of stuff we have asked for

Frank

I've given plenty of money to Brent and will continue to do so for unique items. It's every man for himself in this free-market economy for common off the shelf items, or ideas for local purchases or work-arounds. I'm not compromising loyalty by shopping around.

On that note, you can save a couple of bucks on shipping if you order directly fom the K&N site for the drop-in filter.

Regards,

Cruiser,
So, how long did it take the first time?
And, yes, as stated above - the long version was written for rookies.

Dinqua, It took me approx. 75 minutes to complete. I've really got to find one of those right-angle, ratcheting screwdrivers before/if I do it again. On the other hand, I'll be working up a homemade Freak (call it "Freakish" if you will) intake system before too long and a lot of the problems will disappear in the process.

I've only changed my jets once, using the "rookie" method, and I've been happy ever since.
As to 20 minutes to do it again since I have the allen head screws installed, it ain't gonna happen.
It takes me twenty minutes to find the keys to the wife's Blazer, pull it out of the garage, re-arrange the S10 parts my son has laying everywhere so I can get near my tool box, then drink a beer so I can cut the can in half to have something to drain the carb bowls into...... then move the bike from against the wall to the middle of the garage, go to my tool box and find the tools I need to do the job are "missing", then find my son who tells me he lent them to his buddy so he could work on his Kaw crotch rocket, and he isn't home because he had to go visit his grandma for the day. Then I need a half hour to drink another beer, throw some stuff around and listen to my wife telling me to calm down.... then another 20 minutes to put the bike back where it was, put the Blazer back in the garage, move it back outside to pick up the S10 parts I ran over, then put it back in the garage and throw the S10 parts out in the snow, then drink another beer as the steam shoots out of my ears.....

You "super fast mechanic" types must not be married or don't have a teenager living at home....

20 minutes my ar$s........

ROTFLMAO!!!

Well now I've got a small problem. When I finished the jetting, I took the bike for a quick ride to see if it worked. No Problems at that time. A few days later I took the bike out for approx. 30 miles of highway and had a blast - still no problem. Now here comes the problem. Saturday (two days ago) I went to start it and the bike wouldn't start due to the battery being affected by the cold weather. I ran the battery down bad. So, I put a charger on it and charged the battery up and it started without a problem. Problem is - the bike is, well NOT backfiring, but there is a "PFFFT" coming from the carbs at low RPMs. It isn't steady, and it's not ignited gases, but there is definitely a quick 'pressure release' coming from the carbs at intermittent spacing. Doesn't happen at high RPMs that I can tell, just at idle.
I would be thinking that I was running rich now, but the first two rides with the new jets were flawless. I'd think I flooded it while attempting to start it when I ran down the battery, but the 15 miles I put on it afterwards would surely have corrected any type of "flooded" condition. Maybe the temp - 39 degrees? But the two previous rides were at colder temps.
So I'm stumped. I'll take it in tomorrow to have the dealer look at it unless any of you smart guys can help before then.

Check to make sure your vacuum port plugs are not cracked and your rubber manifold boots are on all the way around. Those buggers are hard to get on when you remove the carbs. Sometimes they're not on all the way around and you can have air leaks.

Grump, I used to find a lot of my tools by hitting them with a lawn mower where the son's and their buddies used to work on their bikes in the yard. the last straw was when my son used a 14 oz. can of high dollar Remington gun oil to oil the chain on his dirt bike!

Well lookie there! One of the carb vacuum caps I put on when I removed the CA Emissions unit had split. I must admit that they were a little too small. I just replaced both of them with correctly sized ones. I'll see if it works tomorrow when its warmer than 19 degrees.