 Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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Question for the class: Anybody try the new drop-in K&N filter? NewSpeedmaster.com has 'em here: http://www.newspeedmaster.com/html/k_and_n_air_filter.htmlExperiences? Comments? Better/worse than the FREAK? --Jaeger
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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Don't have one but have a UNI. I do however have an opinion i think has some validity. The stock filter's "screen", or the metal surround obviously inhibits the amount of air that can get to the element itself. So no matter how well the paper element itself can flow air, the metal screen inhibits it by only allowing a certain amount of air to get to the element. Look at it and you'll notice it probably only leaves 50% of the area covering the element open. Something i've yet to see mentioned but is obviously a big consideration. The UNI has a screen that is like a chain link fence and probably leaves a good 75% of the area open to airflow if not more. The K&n from what i can tell from the pics has no screen at all which i believe would allow more flow than either. However, from what i've gathered about the K%N it also allows larger prticles to pass. Therefore i bought the UNI figuring that from what i've read it's element traps smaller particles than the K%N and the screen covers a pretty small area that is probably negligable as far as air flow.
the point is that no matter how good a filter's ability to flow air is, the screen can inhibit it no matter how good it is. In my mind the UNI traps smaller particles but allows air flow good access to the element due to the screen. the K%N allows more due to no screen but also supposedly allows larger particles that from what i've read seems to be detremental.
2 things to consaider from what i've said..... 1)- the particle size thats allowed thru the various filters as i've stated is not fact, but just the general consensus i've gotten by reading a lot on the subject. I may be wrong
2)-the screens.....this is fact. the Uni is much more open than stock, and the K&N is more open than both, assuming that there is no screen, which i get from looking at the pics on brent's site. But it could be a fine mesh that the pic doesn't reveal so i'm not 100% sure.
In any case, i felt the UNI was the best compromise between an open screen and filter element ability to trap small particulates. but again the element's ability to do that is just my feeling from all i've read. But i feel good about my UNi. It did give me a boost and allowed me to jet richer and get even more power. If the K%N gives a bit more i don't care because i feel i'm safer with the UNI.
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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We use to run K&N filters on our off road cars. If they're good for the Baja 500 and 1000 then their more than good enough for our bikes on the road. I personally run a modified Uni filter and like it. I don't believe the wire chain mesh inhibits air flow to any degree measurable. The Uni and K&N are both top of the line for aftermarket filters.
bigsteve
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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Saddle Sore
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I haven't tried it yet and I don't have the freak,, but 1 K&N filter in a restrictive airbox cannot hope to equal the airflow of the Freak with a K&N lashed to each carb. You may get some improved performance, but the Freak maximizes the airflow. Once you apply performance exhaust (outflow) and proper jetting (fuel/air ratio), you are there.... The engine will breathe as well as it can, next step, bigger lungs.... 
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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Loquacious
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i am ging to try the K&N and drill the bottom of the box. already have great pipes so i iwll let you know the difference when i do it
Frank
(Former)05 BA tbike pipes, ai removed, Freak, mikuni hsr 42's, 904, ported/polished head, 1mm oversized valves
NOW-2010 silver and black tbird
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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I got the first K&N that Brent sold ,according to him.I find no seat of the pants difference in the way my America preforms.If that is your reason for buying one save your money and stay with a sock filter.
"Big" Jack Wilson
Mishawaka,IN.
2010 Thunderbird
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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The filter alone won't get you much if any performamnce. It's the jetting that does. The filter just allows you to jet richer. So put one in and you'll feel the difference, but not till you up the jetting. I'm jetted way richer in the needles than the bike would allow with the stock intake amout or even near it. I've tried to add intake flow in the past with leaner jetting than i have now and the bike just stumbled.
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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I asked the question because I've done all the jetting I can do for now with the stock air setup; I'm running 130/45s (finally checked), TOR longs with a snorkelectomy... I'm stuck with what more to do without mucking with the O2 end of things, but I don't have the $300 to drop on a Freak anytime soon. This question comes on the heels of my buddy doing a NARC on his Bonnie, where he dropped 150/49s in the carbs, and I suddeny became wildly jealous. --Jaeger
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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Well then why not go for the max mods you can....get a filter, drill the airbox and filter bottom and rejet. You'll get a good bit more. I can tell you that theres a healthy difference between my bike how it was with the stock filter and no drilled airbox and how it is now after i did those 2 things and rejetted for them, mainly the needles. It brought the acelleration up to where i was finally happy with it. I used the UNI filter tho. From all i've read it seems as tho it's better at trapping particles and still flows much better than stock.
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I'm just nervous about punching holes in the airbox that close to the rear tire  that just seems like a really good way to blow a lot of crap and water into the filter.  Believe me, I was sitting there looking at the drill and thinking about it, but... just makes me a little oogie. Besides, can't really undo that one. :P Anybody have any problems with punching holes in the airbox? --Jaeger
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never heard of a problem, planing on doing it myself to. wouldnt worrie about it to much if i were you
Frank
(Former)05 BA tbike pipes, ai removed, Freak, mikuni hsr 42's, 904, ported/polished head, 1mm oversized valves
NOW-2010 silver and black tbird
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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Quote:
Besides, can't really undo that one
Sure you can. Just install a new filter. That seals the hole. If you're worried about water i can understand that. But nothing else short of water will get thru the filter. I don't ride in the rain so it doesn't bother me.
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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Hahahah!! Oh, DUH -- you're in L.A.! No, I guess rain isn't a big problem for ya.  But you don't have problems with other crap gettin gin the filter? Hrm. That does make it more promising, I suppose... Still nervous about the water, tho.  --Jaeger
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You can always do like I did, I drilled the hole in the filter and the bottom of the airbox with a 1 3/8" hole saw. I didn't see a whole lot of improvement, so I installed a button plug in the hole in the airbox.... 
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Hrm. Also a good idea. I like the possibility of plugging the hole fairly easily.
Here's a thought -- has anyone tried running a ram-air pipe into the stock airbox? Something like an air scoop on the outside of the case to try to drive more air into the filter? I don't quite know how do do it "nicely," but I figure it was worth asking...
--Jaeger
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Quote:
But you don't have problems with other crap gettin gin the filter?
No, and what we're talking about are particles way to big to get thru the filter anyway ! Anything that COULD get thru the element could also get thru the top where the snorkel was because particles that small are suspended in the air anyway. Things like sand or pebbles or whatever, if they DID get in wouldn't matter because they can't possibly get thru the filter. And if things big enough to cause restricted flow get in it'ss be obvious and you just remove the seat and remove it. But that hasen't happened and i doubt it will. besides, if it really worries you you can always put a piece of screen over it like some others have done. I just don't see any reason to. And even if a rock or something big got in it would likely be sucked against the elemnet till you stopped and at idle it would probably fall right back out.
Hey grump.......did you rejet after drilling? If not you may find this mod DOES help. It allowed me to change the needle size and get a richer midrange which translated to quite a sizable power boost. I couldn't do that before because it would get too rich. You might wanna shim the needles and try removing that plug. I think you'll find yourself happy you did.
Last edited by iknowjohnny; 11/14/2005 1:38 PM.
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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The problem I have had with the UNI is because it is not a pleated filter it has far less surface area than the stock filter or the K&N. Because of this I have to clean the thing ALOT. As soon as the surface gets covered with dust performance drops off rapidly. The pleated filters, besides having more than 3 times the surface area, will trap the dirt in the valleys first leaving the peaks cleaner to let more air flow past. I'll be getting a K&N this winter.
2002 Bonneville America
1995 Speed Triple STC
1996 Speed Triple
1999 Daytona 1200 SE (2)
1998 Sprint Executive
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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Saddle Sore
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ikj,
I'm already running 130 mains, Thunderbike longs, TBS needles, and snorkel out. The bike's running good as it is and the plugs are a medium brown color. The drilled holes didn't seem to make a difference (s-o-p) in performance, but they did cause my air filter to get dirty a lot quicker. I blame that on where I work as we have a lot of dust and dirt there. So I elected to put the button plug in the air box. I bent all the tangs out a bit to make sure I got a real tight fit, as I put it in from the outside - bottom of the air box.
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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I put the K&N drop in filter last night and so far it seems to run much better, even in this cold & damp weather we are having. Now all I have to do is save up for the Thunderbike Pipes! 
Martyn
If you have to ask why I ride, you wouldn't understand the answer!
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Martyn -- thanks for the update! I'm really curious to see how folks react to the new filter, as I want to upgrade the air system without doing anything expensive and/or irreperable.  Please give an update once you put a couple hundred miles on it! --Jaeger
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Hi Jaeger Just got back from a round trip of 580 miles & IMHO the K&N filter has definately improved the performance. The throttle seems more responsive, today at 90mph, fully loaded it was still pulling going up a drag  Now all I have to do is cut out the baffles in the spare pair of silencers I got off ebay & it will sound as good as it looks  The more I ride this bike, the more I love it 
Martyn
If you have to ask why I ride, you wouldn't understand the answer!
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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I have used K&N filters religiously in my vehicles since the beginning of recorded time. There has never been a negative result from their use. Right now I just have the drop in, but am looking at making a modified Freak set-up this winter. The Freak costs so much that it has given me some MAJOR motivation to fab my own setup. Should be a lot of fun:-)
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I'm certainly no expert. But one thing i can say thru experience in jetting my bike till it was at it's best is this. To those who say a uni or K&N or even a drilled bottom did nothing for them, that doesn't mean they didn't increase airflow. Whether or not you can feel a difference depends on where your jetting is at the moment that you try it. You're adding more airflow, so if it's already on the lean side you'll feel anywhere from noting to the bike running ragged and even stumbling. If it's a bit rich to begin with you'll then feel the difference.so if you felt nothing chances are you would have if you threw a shim on or got smaller needles, while if you did that w/o adding the filter the bike may have been too rich. It's a balancing act and you can't just add one thing w/o adding a balance of the other, IE:fuel vs air.
Thats just a basic theory that is more complicated than just that. But thats what i find when playing with my intake and jetting. When i installed my UNI i felt a difference. Not big, but there none the less.
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Martyn and/or I.K.Johnny--
Have you messed with the carbs yet? If so, what're you using? If I'm correct, My current setup of 130/45s, +2 shims will be too lean for the airbox... or will it?
Gurus, have ye input?
--Jaeger
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Quote:
Martyn and/or I.K.Johnny--
Have you messed with the carbs yet? If so, what're you using? If I'm correct, My current setup of 130/45s, +2 shims will be too lean for the airbox... or will it?
Gurus, have ye input?
--Jaeger
It depends on whether you have aftermerket pipes and if you've done any airbox mods. If not i think you'd be too rich with that setup because i have to get pipes and remove the snorkel just to be able to shim the needles and up the mains. Right now with thunderbike pipes and a uni filter with the bottom drilled and no snorkel i'm running thruxton needles and 130's with stock pilot and i think the midrange is slightly rich tho it runs good. I believe i could open up the airbox a bit more to balance out the richness. So if yours is stock and you're running that setup i don't know why your bike isn't stuttering. if you jhave pipes and any airbox tweaks, even just snorkel removal, then i could see it. But i don't know what your setup is. and even if i did i couldn't say for sure cuz i'm certainly no guru and my only experience is with my perticular bike/setup.
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I.K.Johnny -- Good guess! Yes, I have TOR long pipes and the snorks out -- and right now she's running very nicely.  I'm just wondering what I can do to squeeze a bit more out of her without doing a full FREAK, as I don't have the dollars.  --Jaeger
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Hi Jaeger I have the standard original pipes, A1 removed & standard jets with the K&N & standard airbox configuration it runs great throughout the range and I am getting a better fuel consumption!  . I will play around with the jets when I change the pipes.
Martyn
If you have to ask why I ride, you wouldn't understand the answer!
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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Quote:
I'm just wondering what I can do to squeeze a bit more out of her without doing a full FREAK, as I don't have the dollars
Well, i wish i could say but i don't know what the TOR's are capable of. if the pipes aren't open enough to allow the exaust to flow fast enough then inputting more air and fuel will only make things worse. And from all i've read TORs are not as open as most other aftermarket pipes.
That said, if they ARE capable then the trick is to increase airflow however you can and then jet to balance the mix thereby burning more mixture for more power when the throttle gets twisted. So aside from the freak your options are.......
1)-drilling the bottom of the filter/airbox. this is where you cut out the bottom of the filter and then a matching hole in the bottom of the airbox. I did this and made the hole the same size as at the top of the filter essentially doubling the intake to the filter. However, while it doubles the possible intake into the filter, once it goes thru the filter into the airbox towards the carbs, there is a restrictor plate and on some older bikes 2 more inner snorkels. All of that means that if you drill the airbox you will double the possible air intake into the filter, BUT, not necassarily into the carbs because air flow can only be as good as the most restricted part of the route. So in other words, tho the drilling doubles the air into the filter the restrictors after than point will stop you from really getting double the flow into the carbs.However, i found it does increase flow to the carbs but probably no where near doubling it. This is why i'm considering removing the restrictor, but this is a big job so i'm hesitant due to being lazy. 
2)-the filter. No matter how much flow into the filter, the filter itself has to be able to pass as much as is coming in or drilling is of no use. UNI and K&N filters DO allow much better flow, not necassarily because of the filter element themselves, but because the stock filter has a metal can around it thats perforated but in essence probably cover close to 1/2 the outer filter surface ! Look at it then look at a uni who's "can" is like a wire mesh that probably covers 5% of the surface. And the K&N which from the pics i've seen has no can at all !
3)-freer flowing pipes. I know you said you want options that don't cost, but again i'm not sure you can get much more power with tors as you can with many others like Tbike pipes.
All that said, the first things i would do if i were you is try a filter and see if that helps. As rich as i believe your bike is with that jet setup i think adding a filter may give you an instant boost.And if it does then you may wanna consider drilling the box.
2)-
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Interesting. I've never heard the TORs are more restrictive than, say D&D, but I suppose that makes sense given that they aren't as loud either... Dunno. I'm not complaining -- my bike came from the dealer with teh TORs, so I'm a happy camper either way.
Once I get my holiday bonus and hopefully have a few dollars left over, I'll get one of the K&N drop-ins and see how she does. I'm fairly certain that now she's running a littel rich, soooo... need to let her get a little more oxygen.
--Jaeger
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jaeger, i run the open at both ends airbox and open uni filter and have no compunction running rain sleet or what ever. the s.o.p. preformance was immeditely noticed (132/45/2;modified first gen tor's) (i want to try different needles(thruxton?) and drilling the slide(?) for throttle response) however, as mentioned before the filter gets dirty quickly and when she's dirty the tuning goes south. makes sense as you tune with a nicely oiled clean filter and a few weeks later she's gummed up. i am happy with the results even with the added chore of staying on top of the filter cleaning. better yet tune with a dirty filter and you'll happy at least 50% of the time!!!!!!!!!
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Quote:
I've never heard the TORs are more restrictive than, say D&D, but I suppose that makes sense given that they aren't as loud either
I'm not saying it's fact. I'm just going by what i've read. I've heard many say they noticed no difference in performance and never once heard anyone rave about thier performance. On the other hand pretty much everyone who installs thunderbike pipes for example almost to a man rave about the performance gains. A couple here have even had both and say no comparison.So thats where i get my impression of tors, but again it's not thru personal experience. If i thought tors would give me the same boost i'd probably sell my Tpipes tomorrow just for the quieter sound, assuming i could find the TOR's that ARE quiet. (as you know some are some aren't)
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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I just bought the K&N drop-in filter and immediately voided the "Million Mile" warranty by opening the other side partially to accomodate my drilled air-box mod. I noted on the instruction sheet to oil the filter every 50,000/100,000 miles unless operating under extremely dusty conditions. I sent a quick email off to K&N for verification, but does this sound right?
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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Big Bore
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I clean and re-oil every year on all my vehicles and have done so forever.
The filters would be positively filthy after the recommended mileage.
"Never underestimate the power of human stupidity" - Robert Heinlein
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 Re: Drop-in K&N Filter (Non-FREAK)
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Thanks Phil, that makes perfect sense.
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.... while I'm at it, do you use K&N's recharging product, or have you found a cost effective alternative?
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Big Bore
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I use the K&N stuff. I can usually get 3 cleanings/charges out of one kit. I think I paid about $10 for the kit.
"Never underestimate the power of human stupidity" - Robert Heinlein
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