 New SS Long Cannons came today!
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Big thanks to my brother Fast Eddy & of course Dale for making a great product!  GOD do they sound fantastic. Quick ride around the neighborhood & down the 50 MPH main drag was a hoot. These are on to stay. Dale shipped 45 pilots & 132 mains with them. I'm currently running stock 40 pilots & 125 mains with a UNI in the stock airbox with a Norman Hyde bellmouth. Bike ran fine, and no problems on decel either. I'm not hip on either of the jets he sent. I'm thinking more like 42 pilots & 130 mains. I've got Brent's PMS (pilot mixture screws) set ~ 2 turns as well. What'cha all think? I'm all ears.....  Thanks much, Jim Edit: Forgot to make mention I'm running TBS (Thunderbird Sport) needles as well.  Just came back from another "tool" around the hood. Man I'm really, really happy thusfar with this exhaust.
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 Re: New SS Long Cannons came today!
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Hey Mack, Congrats on the new pipes. Regarding any lean condition, have you pulled a plug yet to note the colour? I think you still might be lean given the fact I was running 130 mains, 42 pilots, TBS needles with 1 shim, TORs, snorkels removed and my plugs were still white. Bike ran fine. Your ride is probably a lot leaner given the higher flow pipes and intake. Check the plugs... 
12 Rocket Roadster 03 Bonneville America 69 BSA Firebird Scrambler 73 Yamaha TX 750
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Congrats on making more noise! Dale shipped me the same jets. I'm here in MD just about sea level and it runs like a champ. My bike did not run well with these jets and the TBS needles.
Al
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Well, then I'll try the stock needles and the jets he sent then. The bike ran really, really well with the current jets, needles, and intake with the stock exhaust (47-55 MPG on the open road.) Probably a bit lean though...
I'll check the plugs too. i'm running Nology coils, Bremi 1K Ohm wires & Iridium plugs as well.
Thanks guys!
Jim
BTW - My elevation is approx ~ 1000 ASL.
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 Re: New SS Long Cannons came today!
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MackDaddy: I've been running 42/125s with Thruxton needles and no shims and the set up is pretty good (Long Cannons, stock airbox, K&N filter, homemade bellmouth) but it always seems a tad lean if I try to hit the rev limiter. If I was to go back to the stock needle I think I'd at least have to put in 135 mains. We're pretty much at the same altitude, I'm around 1000ft at home and it goes from 800 to 2000 ft here where I ride the most.
Did you spring for the billet tips?
A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort. Herm Albright (1876 - 1944)
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Quote:
MackDaddy: I've been running 42/125s with Thruxton needles and no shims and the set up is pretty good (Long Cannons, stock airbox, K&N filter, homemade bellmouth) but it always seems a tad lean if I try to hit the rev limiter. If I was to go back to the stock needle I think I'd at least have to put in 135 mains. We're pretty much at the same altitude, I'm around 1000ft at home and it goes from 800 to 2000 ft here where I ride the most.
Did you spring for the billet tips?
Oh man Ed, you just had to throw some more in the mix, eh?! 
Well, maybe I'll try my original thought then. TBS needles, 42 pilots & 130 mains first. See what she does... read the plugs like a good wrench should.
I didn't spring for the billet tips... yet. Probably won't take me long before I bite the "billet-bullet" and get them. For now, they look & sound so darn good I'm pleased as punch.
Thanks all, Jim
PS - Keep the variations coming. This will be a good reference thread for contemplation.
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Okay, we're done.
132 Mains 45 Pilots Stock Needles
Seems a bit fat (rich) on the pilot circuit. Didn't get a chance to ride it due to rain, but it smells a bit rich at idle. Still needed to use the choke (enrichner) to start and keep an idle (few minutes.)
I've still got the PMS's at ~ 2 turns. We'll see how she does over the next few days of real riding. Sounds a bit meaner now too (all that fuel seems to have woke her up considerably.)
Thanks, Jim
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 Re: New SS Long Cannons came today!
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running SS Short slash cuts... 45 pilots 130 mains TBS needles 2 shims
I was at 45 pilot 135 main TBS and, as is evident by my dyno (see NH Dynos) I was pig rich dropped to 130 but found a peviously non-existant flat spot...2 shims and its gone...no new dyno yet but should be a bit leaner than it was
THE VOICE OF REASON
per: Stewart
AF&AM/Shriner/Scoutmaster
130/45 TBS 2shim SS Uni 18/42
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Rob, What's you intake setup? I'm going to try some road testing tonight weather permitting. Thanks, Jim Edit: I'm going to try and make these jets work, and play with needles / shims / vacuum return springs / PMS adjustments. I do all carb work on the bike, I'm not pulling those little b@stards off. The left side is a PITA to get at while mounted, but still better than pulling the airbox & carbs off.
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stock air box Uni no snorkle...
THE VOICE OF REASON
per: Stewart
AF&AM/Shriner/Scoutmaster
130/45 TBS 2shim SS Uni 18/42
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Quote:
stock air box Uni no snorkle...
Super. Thanks for the quick response! 
I'd assume being in NH, you're at, or around sea level too.
More info to go on. Thanks a bunch!
Jim
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Hi Jim, congrats on getting your new pipes mate and sounds like you are over the moon about how good they sound  I was wondering if you were ever going to put K&N pods on cos if you do it's really easy to dial the right carby settings. BTW, when you think you have your current settings sorted, are you going to dyno your baby? If so and your interested, you can send the printout to me and I'll post it onto our Dyno Table for you and everyone to see  . Enjoy your new pipes mate.  Staffo
Staintune Pipes, K&N Pods, 45 pilots, TBS needles and 145 mains.
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Thanks Staffo! No plans on pods, as this thing is a beast now. I ended up putting the TBS needles back in, along with my shorter & lighter Kawasaki GPZ900 vacuum return springs. OH MY GOD. The beast has been awakened!!!!  I'll get a dyno someday, but I can tell right now she's very, very close if not spot on. Happy as a clam. Jim
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Great stuff big fella  There's no doubt whatsover about wakening up the beast too, I also found the responsiveness to be so much quicker as well. Nope, they are nice pipes and not too pricey either. Enjoy and ride safe mate. 
Last edited by Staffo; 07/10/2008 12:49 AM.
Staintune Pipes, K&N Pods, 45 pilots, TBS needles and 145 mains.
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Thanks again Staffo. After some tooling around last night, and a ride into work this morning I'm on the hunt for 18" baffles. These sound fantastic at idle and low speed, but on the highway I'd like to tone them down just a bit. I wear a fullface helmet (and earplugs) and these pipes are LOUD @ 4k RPM under load, period. They do bring the attention of the cellphone yaking cagers though I must admit.  I wonder if Dale makes his own baffles? If so I'd like him to make me an 18" set (I'll give him a call later today.) Ride safe brother, Jim
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When you find out about the baffles, Jim, let us know. I'm with you, great pipes that just need a tiny bit of sound taming to make them purrfect. I'd really like to not have to wear earplugs just for a quick scoot to the store.
A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort. Herm Albright (1876 - 1944)
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Quote:
When you find out about the baffles, Jim, let us know. I'm with you, great pipes that just need a tiny bit of sound taming to make them purrfect. I'd really like to not have to wear earplugs just for a quick scoot to the store.
Will do Ed. I'm calling Dale here in just a bit. I'm having a heck of a time finding anything on the Internet... hopefully he can hook us up.
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Just got off the phone with Dale. He's either going to tack weld a 1.5" OD washer in the inlet of an existing style baffle, or check with his raw material supplier to see if he can get smaller ID baffle pipe to make up a quieter system to fit these pipes.
He stated adding length to the existing style baffle (1.75" ID) won't do much good for quieting them down. I told him I'd give him a callback first of next week, as there are more folks that are interested in a quieter pipe.
So we shall see!
Jim
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Quote:
Congrats on making more noise! Dale shipped me the same jets. I'm here in MD just about sea level and it runs like a champ. My bike did not run well with these jets and the TBS needles.
Al,
My apologies for the belated thank you. 
Funny how things are the same but not... My bike ran like crap last night with the stock needles, but runs like a scalded dog with the TBS needles. Go figure!
Ride safe brother, Jim
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Hi all, I also emailed Dale and he suggested much the same thing ie welding a washer etc. I reckon that's a simple, cheap and good option but I prefer the idea of adding a baffle or something along those lines. I'm now also a Hp junkie and don't really want to give away too much of the precious stuff. So I did a search on the net and found This mob and in particular the header pipe baffle. In short these baffles supposedly provide a deeper and throatier sound which I think will be kinder on the ears and apparently help increase torque. MMM, we'll see about that  Anyway, I bit the bullet and ordered a set but these are only part of the answer cos they said these baffles don't decrease the sound by much. So I'm now open to any other suggestions to further tone them down, and the only other thing I can think of longer baffles as already proposed. Is there any muffler guru out there that can chip in here?? So that's my progress so far. What I wanted to do though is give anyone who wants to take the baffles out a heads up first on the best procedure. Before I took mine out, I asked Dale what was the procedure and he said that I should get a length of timber or pipe and from the entrance end of the pipe push it "up the spout" and "tap" the baffles out. Well I have to tell you, tapping out is not really the right words to describe what's required. For instance I ended up using a copper pipe that just fit,  and with it resting on the cross member I had to really give some heavy wacks to get it out. The problem is, the packing moves and sort of wedges itself against the pipe's internal bore making it really hard to shift the baffle. Here's a pic where you can see it has moved.  Anyway, some serious belting is required but it will come out. I suggest though that a piece of timber or pipe as wide as possible, but that still fits, is the best option. The other part is making sure you don't do any damage to the slash cut end when whacking down onto the baffle. I used some disused spongy armour which did the job for me. The final part of the baffle extraction process was hanging the baffle from a rafter and letting the pipe's weight help remove it like this: This worked really well for me and the end result as you can see is a freed baffle with it's associated packing.  So I hope this helps anyone who is thinking about removing the baffles but personally, if you don't need to then don't. So anyway, if we all can put our heads together on this one, hopefully the end result will be even better pipes. That's what I'm hoping for. 
Staintune Pipes, K&N Pods, 45 pilots, TBS needles and 145 mains.
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Interesting on the baffle removal. Mine pull right out from the rear after removing the screw on the underside of the pipe. They're a bit fussy to reinstall, as the screw hole has to line up perfectly. I use a pair of hose pliars to reach in and grab the cross bar of the baffle, wiggle a little and pull it right out. I had my baffles out last week, for the 2nd time in three seasons. I had previoiusly removed some of the packing and used a piece of hardware screen to hold it in place. Well, after three seasons, the packing is starting to break down. I pulled out some big hunks and put them back in. Funny thing, that didn't make them any louder. I guess they will need re-packing with new material at some point. Fired the bike up in the garage with no baffles. Yikes, now that is loud. Brought one neighbor outside to investigate....
Al
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I have the SS Long Cannons with the billet tips. I love the sound of the pipes but thought they were a little too load for some of nice quiet country roads I cruise on. I was looking for a simple solution of just inserting an addition baffle. I came across these guys in the back of Cycle World magazine. SmartpartzThe 3" Hard Kore Quiet Baffles are almost a perfect fit for my Long Cannons. I had to cut off about an inch of the Quiet Baffle and the little tab at the other end. The Quiet Baffle sits nicely between the original Specialty Spare baffle and the billet tips. I can remove the baffle in about 2 minutes and for about 70 bucks I figure I would take a shoot. It did quiet the pipes down a little at idle and took some of harshness out at the higher revs. The pipes are still loud but not as bad in my subjective opinion. I'll post some pics if anyone is interested.
04 SM Black, Freak, SS Cannons, 18T, 155/45 3turns
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Quote:
I have the SS Long Cannons with the billet tips. I love the sound of the pipes but thought they were a little too load for some of nice quiet country roads I cruise on. I was looking for a simple solution of just inserting an addition baffle.
I came across these guys in the back of Cycle World magazine. Smartpartz
The 3" Hard Kore Quiet Baffles are almost a perfect fit for my Long Cannons. I had to cut off about an inch of the Quiet Baffle and the little tab at the other end. The Quiet Baffle sits nicely between the original Specialty Spare baffle and the billet tips. I can remove the baffle in about 2 minutes and for about 70 bucks I figure I would take a shoot. It did quiet the pipes down a little at idle and took some of harshness out at the higher revs. The pipes are still loud but not as bad in my subjective opinion.
I'll post some pics if anyone is interested.
Yes, I'm interested. Some of the places I ride it are very peaceful and it would be nice to tone down the volume a bit.
A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort. Herm Albright (1876 - 1944)
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Staintune Pipes, K&N Pods, 45 pilots, TBS needles and 145 mains.
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Haveing built Silencers for fire arms I'll add my thoughts. And sound silence depends on several factors. 1st is what is produceing the sound. 2nd is the speed of the producer.
In firearms, the projectile must not excede the speed of sound or you get a distinct crack as it leaves the weapon. Silencer or not.
On Bikes? The gases are not exceding the speed of sound. they are traveling at the speed of sound.
We have several ways to control them now. 1st is to restrict them, which causes back pressure.
2nd is to dissipate the pressure wave in a controlled manor.
Now, some will say an 8" baffle is just as good as an 18" baffle.
Your wrong if you build the baffle right. What should be done is to leave the rear or engine side of any baffle larger then the exit side. Every baffle shoud have endents punched into the inside faceing the enginge to catch the sound waves. And a good wrapper to absorb those waves captured.
I would say, take any baffle, and size down the exit size of that baffle 1st.
You'll get a tad more back pressure and may need to open the vents some in the baffle to reduce that.
But that's what fine tuneing is eh?
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So Jeff, from your experience you believe that Quote:
"Every baffle shoud have endents punched into the inside faceing the enginge to catch the sound waves. And a good wrapper to absorb those waves"
MMMM, very interesting 
thanks mate.
Last edited by Staffo; 07/11/2008 12:52 AM.
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Reversing the baffles sure looks like it would be more restrictive. You would need to drill/tap a small hole on the opposite end to keep the baffle in place (I assume there isn't one already there). Those baffles look identical to mine, but who knows on size. Did you try spraying in some PB-Blaster or similar to loosen them up? Quote:
Maybe you have different packing cos as I said, I couldn't believe how stuck the baffles were but you can see why can't you?
Anyway, I just thought of something and I've emailed Dale on this one and wanted to know what others thought. Just to save time I'll cut and paste the same email info:
Quote:
Now here’s a photo of the internal bore of my pipes:
Now as it looks to me and remember, I don’t have any prior knowledge on how these baffles work but, wouldn’t they work better if they were turned around opposite to how they currently fit.
I mean, the above photo is taken at the end from which the exhaust travels down towards the crossbar but the internal bore doesn’t appear to be facing the right direction to be able to capture any excess “noise†into the baffle’s wrapping.
So if I turned the baffle around and had it facing in the opposite direction (see photo)
Like this, wouldn’t the internal bore of the baffle be able to dissipate the excess noise better given the way the little dookas (whatever they are called) are facing?
It’s just an idea but it does make more sense to me.
What do you think Dale, or doesn’t it work that way?
So that's my question to Dale and I'm hoping there might be something in this.
Who knows, maybe we can tone them down by reversing the direction in which the baffles fit 
Anyway like I said, it makes sense to me.
Al
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Guys this is all great information. But for me I came to the conclusion that part of my problem is my full face helmet. It acts as a reverberation chamber that exacerbates the sound. When I tool around the neighborhood (without a helmet,) it sounds perfect. I don't want to give up riding with a full face helmet, so a quieter baffle is still in order. I did a little experiment this morning. For the ride to work, I wore my HJC 3/4 helmet instead (still using Alpine hearing protectors as well.) The tone of the exhaust on the freeway was a WHOLE LOT less intrusive to my hearing. I've already got tinnitus, so I really need to work this out as I don't care to loose any more of my hearing (the constant ringing sux, trust me.) Team Triumph (Sceptre exhaust) makes an 8" x 1" ID baffle for their pipes (2 7/8" ID as well.) I think this might do the trick, although I'd really like to see it 12" long as opposed to 8". I'm going to call Team Triumph later today to see if they can help us out. Another option is Big City Thunder baffles. They make a quite version for the HD Screamin Eagle crowd. Link: http://www.bigcitythunder.com/pages/screamin-eagle.htmlStay tuned... Jim
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Quote:
2nd is to dissipate the pressure wave in a controlled manor.
So, something like this would actually work?

Soren
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Can't imagine that does much, but it's a small investment. Dale must have changed something in the way he builds his pipes. I bought mine in '04 and even with a lot of packign removed, they are quieter than a local guys bike with new Scepters. Quote:
Quote:
2nd is to dissipate the pressure wave in a controlled manor.
So, something like this would actually work?

Soren
Al
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Quote:
Dale must have changed something in the way he builds his pipes. I bought mine in '04 and even with a lot of packign removed, they are quieter than a local guys bike with new Scepters.
I can tell you this, my baffles have no cross bar on them at either end (which will certainly NOT help facilitate removal.) Great...
Also, did the rider with Sceptre's have any baffles in? They come without baffles (another $95.00 added to the price tag if you want them.) Although for your $95, you do get to choose "gold or silver" variety. 1.0" or 1.5" ID... Certainly must be a bit tamer than my current 1.75" ID units.
I'm still going to to contact Team Triumph later today. But for now the plan is leave work @ 1:00PM and RIDE!!!! 
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Quote:
Quote:
2nd is to dissipate the pressure wave in a controlled manor.
So, something like this would actually work?

Soren
What those do is introduce a small amount of back pressure. They do affect the sound a small amount, but not much. I have several friends that use home made things like those. They run wide open pipes but needed the back pressure.
I ran something like those but wrapped with wire then wrapped with a fiberglass like packing a few times. All older Triumphs of course.
I like loud pipes, but tuned so to speak. I've heard Thunder Pipes with the baffles removed. They sound louder then Scepters but have a weird Hollow ringing to my ears.
I pulled the baffles on Nancy's Epco's. The sound is not as loud as the Scepters but has that weird Hollow ring to them.
I need to fix that one of these days.
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Quote:
I like loud pipes, but tuned so to speak. I've heard Thunder Pipes with the baffles removed. They sound louder then Scepters but have a weird Hollow ringing to my ears.
I pulled the baffles on Nancy's Epco's. The sound is not as loud as the Scepters but has that weird Hollow ring to them.
That is the problem I am trying to deal with my fishtails. Because there is that large hollow section in the middle it acts as if it is an echo chamber. I did add a baffle in the header end of the pipe and that seemed to help deaden the ring. I am going to add another on in the back end and see what happens.
Soren
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Thanks for the link David, those baffles are also interesting. I'm just curious about how much they do reduce the sound by. For instance, in the website's testimonials, just about all of them said the baffles reduced the sound considerably and in one example it was measured to be by 10db, yet you don't think it is that much ie Quote:
It did quiet the pipes down a little at idle and took some of harshness out at the higher revs. The pipes are still loud but not as bad in my subjective opinion
I know it's blo#dy hard to say by how much just by listening and without somthing to measure the db level, but was it really worth it to you or would you have prefered even more of a sound reduction? I'm just trying to evaluate all the possibilities out there.
Last edited by Staffo; 07/12/2008 6:42 PM.
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Hey Jim, you may just have something there when you mention the reverberation chamber effect.  You see, normally I ride with a 3/4 helmet myself purely cos I prefer the freedom and comfort it offers (please no safety lectures fm anyone). Well on my last road trip where I was able to use my SS pipes properly for the first time, I decided to wear my full open fact helmet due to the cold. So given this is one thing I did differently to when I first trialed the new pipes around town and was pretty happy, it makes me think there might actually be something pretty valid in your assessment. Anyway, I'll take this on board matey and see what happens.  BTW, I do still think that a slight toning down is in order but perhaps for me if I adopt your suggestion as well as do a couple of other things I have in the pipeline, it may just add up to be exactly what I'm after.  Thanks for the tip Jim 
Staintune Pipes, K&N Pods, 45 pilots, TBS needles and 145 mains.
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 Re: New SS Long Cannons came today!
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 568
Adjunct
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OP
Adjunct
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 568 |
Well guys & gals, I've taken the SS pipes off the bike an reinstalled the stock pipes. Rejetted to 125/42 as well (still using TBS needles & softer vacuum springs too.) bike runs really well jetted like this with stock pipes, as hard as that is to believe.
I just can't stand really loud pipes. My ears ring constantly as it is, and these just make it worse (a lot worse.) I'm not willing to ruin my hearing any more that necessary just to have the "cool sounding bike" factor. I want a bit more tone, but nothing like what these provide. I will continue to wear a fullface helmet & hearing protection as well. These are a must for me. Even wind noise with dead stock quiet pipes will ruin your hearing over time.
I'll contact Dale this coming week. If he can provide me with an 18" long x 1" ID baffle, then great. If not, these pipes will be for sale. On the bike for 3 days.... live & learn.
Thanks, Jim
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 Re: New SS Long Cannons came today!
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6,432 Likes: 1
Worn Saddle
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Worn Saddle
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6,432 Likes: 1 |
Quote:
Hey Jim, you may just have something there when you mention the reverberation chamber effect. 
You see, normally I ride with a 3/4 helmet myself purely cos I prefer the freedom and comfort it offers (please no safety lectures fm anyone).
Well on my last road trip where I was able to use my SS pipes properly for the first time, I decided to wear my full open fact helmet due to the cold.
So given this is one thing I did differently to when I first trialed the new pipes around town and was pretty happy, it makes me think there might actually be something pretty valid in your assessment. Anyway, I'll take this on board matey and see what happens. 
My first ride with the pipes was in a half helmet, no ear plugs and I never heard them over the wind roar; it was as if I'd left the sound behind. The full face helmet really accentuates the pipe volume, especially the booming low end.
Doesn't matter, I have to wear the plugs or my tinitus overcomes me and I rely on my ears (or what's left of them) for my living; ear plugs are not just for biking wind noise and pipes either but mowing the lawn, using the table saw, chainsaw, weedeater, dremel tool, grinder...anything that's loud.
A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort. Herm Albright (1876 - 1944)
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 Re: New SS Long Cannons came today!
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 604
Adjunct
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Adjunct
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 604 |
>Well I have to tell you, tapping out is not really the right words to describe what's required.
With pipes mounted, I've had success so far by tying one end of a stiff piece of wire to the crossbar and the other end to a hammer and using it like a slide hammer.
Said Molly to James, that's a fine motorbike.
Richard Thompson
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 Re: New SS Long Cannons came today!
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 604
Adjunct
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Adjunct
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 604 |
>Well I have to tell you, tapping out is not really the right words to describe what's required.
With pipes mounted, I've had success so far (knock wood) with the following: Tie one end of a stiff piece of wire to the crossbar and the other end to a hammer. Use it kinda like a slide hammer.
Said Molly to James, that's a fine motorbike.
Richard Thompson
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 Re: New SS Long Cannons came today!
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,150
Oil Expert
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Oil Expert
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,150 |
Good on you. When I put my baffles back in this time I plan to wrap screen wire (or something similar) around the fibreglass wrapping, and then tie into place with picture frame wire. That way the fibreglass wrap should stay in place and not wedge itself in like this. BTW, I did spray lubricant when trying to get the baffles out but they were wedged in tight by the wrapping 
Staintune Pipes, K&N Pods, 45 pilots, TBS needles and 145 mains.
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