I had to change my rear brakes today and since we were under a tornado watch and the wind was blowing like mad, all honey-do activities were put on hold.
So I changed my rear brakes and then took a look at the wiring for the accessory socket.
The 2 wires in the factory harness are puny, to say the least. I would guess they are only 18 ga., maybe even smaller. After I saw that, I decided to forget about the "new, stronger, battery" theory and just decided to wire the socket directly to the battery. Since I have 4 of the direct-to-battery harnesses from Gerbing that I'm not using, I cut one of them and used it.
I removed the seat and the tank and then removed the plastic harness cover next to the air filter. I ran the wires under the frame next to the fuse box to reach the battery, ran the wires the other way so that the wires exited from under a notch in that harness cover, while the 15 amp inline fuse was wedged between that cover and the frame. Then I ran those wires along the main harness under the spine of the frame, wrapping them around the main harness so they couldn't drop into the throttle linkage/carb area. I crimped female connectors onto the wire ends, then put heat shrink over each connector. I left the heat shrink extend over the connectors but only shrunk the area of the crimp and onto the wire a bit. In other words, the heat shrink acts as a cover and an insulator over the business end of the connectors. I checked continuity and marked the outside of the "hot" wire and connection so I could identify it in the future.
I connected up to the battery and put the bike back together, but did not test it yet.
I have no doubt it will work, and it should also cure the pulsing headlight problem. The Gerbing harness uses 14 ga wire, so it should carry the load much better....
