 Just bought a Gerbings heated jacket and control
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With the weather getting cold, I couldnt just give up riding. So I sprung for one.
Plugged it into the power outlet and rode in 45 degree temps. It kept me warm on the lowest setting. Has sleeves and colar. The only issue was at night where the headlight has a barely noticable pulse. When I turn the jacket off the headlight becomes steady. It may need to be plugged in somewhere else or directly to the battery. Still it is worth it.
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Re: Just bought a Gerbings heated jacket and contr
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Learned Hand
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You may want to consider getting a battery monitor. With jacket, pants, socks and gloves, I sucked the battery down in the snow once and coudn't get restarted. Not a good day. I got one of the monitors shortly after, and have just tonight mounted a Kuryakyn chrome monitor.
With just a jacket you're sure to be fine, but consider getting a monitor anyway.
Gerbing... great stuff!
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 Re: Just bought a Gerbings heated jacket and control
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Same thing here. I rode to work Thursday (2nd shift) - 46 and drizzle on the way in and 36 and drizzle at midnight. I have the jacket liner, glove liners, and socks, but I didn't have the socks installed that night. That combination at full draw should only be pulling 8.25 amps, and I only had the control at about 1/4 turn. My headlight pulsed all the way home, regardless of having it on hi or lo beam and with the lightbar on or off. I even turned my idle up to about 1500 rpm, but it made no difference.
My first thought was my battery - it's over 2 years old. So I ordered a new one from Brent. If that doesn't cure the problem, I'll contact Gerbing, and ask my dealer's mechanic.
But this heated clothing is great otherwise... 
Last edited by Grump; 10/30/2005 12:35 AM.
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I think I will contact Gerbing. It seems to pulse with the LED light. It may be a bad circuit design and they need a regulator of some sort.
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Re: Just bought a Gerbings heated jacket and control
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I was right. It is synched with the LED light. It turns the power on and off as fast as the LED blinks. This could be 2 times or every second. This is not a good design and can hurt the battery and alternator circuits. He blames the bikes design not having a proper regulator and he maybe right. There could be a way to interject some sort of a voltage regulator to smoothen this out. Any electrical engineers here?
They suggested I keep it on all the time and off. But then why pay $69.00 for it when I can get an on and off switch for $12.00.
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Re: Just bought a Gerbings heated jacket and contr
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I've used the single point heat-troller for 3 seasons with gloves/socks. Never had a problem with it. I do just use the on-off switch for the jacket and pants liner so I don’t notice anything going on with the battery. But then again, I don’t use the jacket or pants until it gets below around 20f. Battery is nearing 2 years old, but as of yesterday, things with the gloves and the ‘troller’ were still working just fine.
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Re: Just bought a Gerbings heated jacket and contr
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Quote:
I was right. It is synched with the LED light. It turns the power on and off as fast as the LED blinks. This could be 2 times or every second. This is not a good design and can hurt the battery and alternator circuits. He blames the bikes design not having a proper regulator and he maybe right. There could be a way to interject some sort of a voltage regulator to smoothen this out. Any electrical engineers here?
They suggested I keep it on all the time and off. But then why pay $69.00 for it when I can get an on and off switch for $12.00.
Thanks for the tip. I have been staring at a gerbing’s price list for two years now. Items circled include 1. Jacket liner 46-34 $199. 2. Thermostats $79. 3. BMW Style Plug $15.
Well I am crossing off the Thermostat and circling the on/off switch for $12.00!
Now to stare at it for another two years...
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Re: Just bought a Gerbings heated jacket and contr
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Hey, moe. In FL you can afford to stare at it forever. What do you need heated jackets for anyway?
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Dumb question and probably an even dumber comment....
Q. Wouldn't turning the controller knob all the way to max heat be the same as "on" - with an on and off switch?
C. I haven't had the need to go beyond 1/4 turn on the controller yet, even at 34F degrees. I want to be warm, not well-done.
There has to be a better answer for this.... maybe a higher setting on the controller would reduce the cycling, but it still shouldn't do that.
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Quote:
Hey, moe. In FL you can afford to stare at it forever. What do you need heated jackets for anyway?
When it gets in the 60's well how should I put it? That is cold for Florida crackers! Heated gloves are really the thing I would want for Florida motorsickling.
Seriously,
I ride annually in Georgia, Tennessee and Kentucky during the Fall. Lynn and I have ridden to Indiana, Illinois, Canada, New York, Maryland, well just about anywhere we can! Believe me, I would have pulled into a shop and bought some lectric clothing if I could have, many times too (the shops never seem to be open, or when they are open the weather is not cold enough). We have bought cold weather attire from wally world while in Kentucky and long johns in other states. But electric clothing is just not something a Florida boy knows where to buy! I do have the power socket, so my desire to have heating clothing is still waiting for that fateful day when I actually ride into a shop selling gerbing products some cold blustery day. Till then I’ll curse these frightful 60 degree temps, applaud those Yanks that brave the black ice and retire each night to a home that has never held snow on its gables.
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Quote:
Dumb question and probably an even dumber comment....
Q. Wouldn't turning the controller knob all the way to max heat be the same as "on" - with an on and off switch?
Yes, but why pay $70 for it to be on on / off switch.
I talked to the guy at the factory. I think this is a faulty design because they should know better in flicking on/off power so frequently. I signed up on google.com trying to get some help with this. Here is the thread if you are interested.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.elect...7ffddae2ec880fc
How many amps does out alternator put out?
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Re: Just bought a Gerbings heated jacket and contr
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Slow down there folks, your going to crash...
The Heat Troller (be it Gerbing's or the authentic one) is a GOOD THING! It's a digital switch and is critical to preserving both your comfort (that liner will COOK you at full power) and the bike's charging system. Having it switch on/off keeps the jacket from drawing full power when you don't need it thus keeping the extra load off your battery.
I've been using my Gerbing liner and gloves (total 99 watts) along with my Triumph light bar with no problems at all . I have the battery monitor from electrical connections installed in my dash in place of the little button for the optional clock controls and I'm in the green at anything over idle, even with all the gear on.
Hook your Gerbing cable direct to the battery and then put the thermostat in line. You'll be miserable without it.
Todd Richmond
Grapevine, TX USA
'78 R80 /7
'06 FJR1300A
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Re: Just bought a Gerbings heated jacket and contr
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Here is a link to a website of schematics for various items one of which is a: Heatctrl heat controller.
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Re: Just bought a Gerbings heated jacket and contr
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moe,
BMW dealers sell Gerbing clothing......
I bought mine online..
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Re: Just bought a Gerbings heated jacket and contr
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Todd,
You've given me an idea. Rather than have an extra cable hooked to the battery and having to find a sanitary way to route it, I'm going to look at wiring the accessory socket directly to the battery with an inline fuse..... It is only 2 wires, one to a harness ground and the other to the fuse box.
I can probably use one of the Gerbing wiring harnesses that came with the gloves and socks - they already have a 15 amp fuse in them...
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That would work well too. I just have the pig tail from Gerbing connected to the battery and coming out right above the left side fake air cleaner. It stuffs under the seat when not in use. I have my heat troller velcro mounted on the top of my tank bag (or stuck in my pocket when not using the tank bag).
One other positive feature of the heat troller is that the blinking LED can be left on to simulate an alarm system when your bike is parked. If your jacket is unpluged, it doesn't draw any current. Note you need to remove the label on the heat troller for this ruse to work ;-)
Todd Richmond
Grapevine, TX USA
'78 R80 /7
'06 FJR1300A
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Re: Just bought a Gerbings heated jacket and contr
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I have my pigtail hooked right up to the battery, and I believe there's a fuse in it already. Works fine for me... NEver ridden at night with them to know if the light flickers.
Benny
Black & Silver '02
Too many mods to list
Not enough miles ridden
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Re: Just bought a Gerbings heated jacket and contr
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Benny, Yep, they have a 15 amp inline fuse in their wires that hook to the battery. I just came home from work tonight, 41F, and the headlight pulsed in time with the LED all the way home. As my battery is the original and about 30 months old now, I'm going to try the new battery from Brent first, then do some rewiring if necessary. I prefer using the accessory plug because once you're all dressed to go, it's easier to just plug into that, especially with gloves on. I have the glove liners, which are sort of a PIA. I have their new gloves on order though. Should make life a little easier......
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Grump when are you doing this? Will you let me know if it worked? Its getting cold in Jersey...
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The battery is to arrive on Friday (tomorrow). So depending on honey-do schedule, maybe this weekend. It's supposed to rain Sat. and Sun. anyway, so I should have time.....
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I have the liners too... I have the perfect pair of gloves to go over them, but they still are a pain... I feel like I'm a kid getting ready to go build a snowman.
Benny
Black & Silver '02
Too many mods to list
Not enough miles ridden
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Re: Just bought a Gerbings heated jacket and contr
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Yep, they are a pain. I have Gerbing's new gloves on order. When I get them I will probably put the liners in the classifieds on here. for cheap. Now a semi-funny story. I ordered the heated pants and they came today. Not the liner, the pants. I tried them on, and they are a little snug around the waist over top of my jeans, but I can live with that. I rode to work today. 64F, wore the jacket liner but didn't bother to plug it in. Took the pants with me. Time to leave at midnight, I get all dressed up in my gear, glove liners, jacket liner, and new pants. 41F.. I plug in and ride home. The pants block the wind completely. The gloves and jacket liner are nice and warm. I'm comfy except for a little wind hitting my chin under the helmet. This is nice! I think to myself, even though the headlight is pulsing along with the thermostat..... My legs are warm, but I'm not feeling any heat. I forgot to connect the pants to the jacket...... 
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Some guy on Google (Big Mouth Billy Bass of all names) is making slight remarks about Triumph motorcycles because of my heated jacket issue. He said Triumph sells smoke in jars to put back into the electrics and he "feels my pain."
Anyway I responded. Same link further up if anyone wants to read it.
Someone suggested to plug directly to the battery. Im gonna try it. P.S. the Alternator puts out 27A. I cant imagine I am using all that at the same time. Anyone did the math how much we have to spare while running?
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I wouldn't get too upset by BillyBob - he was just ribbin' ya a bit.
Where did you come up with the 27amp output figure for our alternators??? As to the total draw, I don't know how you would determine that. Electricity has never been one of my strong points...
BTW, I got my new battery today, but it was damaged. I sent Brent an email and he's sending me another one. I have bought a few items from him and his service is always the best. Anyway, I may not get around to any wiring experiments now till I get the new battery.
I'm anxious to see if the stronger battery will be enough to stop the pulsing or if I still have to rewire direct to the battery. I have a feeling that the rewire will be the solution....
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The Triump Service Manual on p 1.15 that the alternator rating is 27A and the Battery Rating is 12V 10Ah.
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Quote:
Some guy on Google (Big Mouth Billy Bass of all names) is making slight remarks about Triumph motorcycles because of my heated jacket issue. He said Triumph sells smoke in jars to put back into the electrics and he "feels my pain."
Was he making slight remarks or just recalling the days of yore? Lucas lectrics are a major part of Triumph’s past!
Quote:
BRITISH ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING BASICS
THE SMOKE THEORY
A theory has recently been postulated a$$erting the
importance of smoke to the functioning of electrical
components. According to this theory, it is smoke which
makes components work...because every time you let the
smoke out of a component, it stops working. It seems this
claim has been verified through extensive field testing.
As with many great discoveries, this one had eluded
the great minds of our time by it’s very simplicity. Of course
smoke makes all things electrical work! Remember the last
time the smoke escaped from your radar? Didn’t it quit
working? On a system level, an aircraft wiring harness
carries smoke from one device to another, and when the
harness springs a leak, it lets the smoke out of everything all
at once and then nothing works. Some aircraft systems
require larger quantities of smoke to operate properly...
that’s why the wires going to them are so big.
Expanding this theory to the automotive industry, why
are Lucas electrical components more likely to leak smoke
than, say, Bosch or Delco? Aha! Lucas is British. Things
British always leak! British convertible tops leak water,
British engines leak oil, and British shock absorbers leak
fluid. Naturally, British electronics must leak smoke.
Electricity has always been something of a mystery to me. This makes it all clear.
Steve
Perhaps this guy was guessing that a bit a humor was in order, assuming you knew about such past Theories?
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That is funny... probably making humor but then dont assume that people were there for part one of the show.
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I had to change my rear brakes today and since we were under a tornado watch and the wind was blowing like mad, all honey-do activities were put on hold.
So I changed my rear brakes and then took a look at the wiring for the accessory socket.
The 2 wires in the factory harness are puny, to say the least. I would guess they are only 18 ga., maybe even smaller. After I saw that, I decided to forget about the "new, stronger, battery" theory and just decided to wire the socket directly to the battery. Since I have 4 of the direct-to-battery harnesses from Gerbing that I'm not using, I cut one of them and used it.
I removed the seat and the tank and then removed the plastic harness cover next to the air filter. I ran the wires under the frame next to the fuse box to reach the battery, ran the wires the other way so that the wires exited from under a notch in that harness cover, while the 15 amp inline fuse was wedged between that cover and the frame. Then I ran those wires along the main harness under the spine of the frame, wrapping them around the main harness so they couldn't drop into the throttle linkage/carb area. I crimped female connectors onto the wire ends, then put heat shrink over each connector. I left the heat shrink extend over the connectors but only shrunk the area of the crimp and onto the wire a bit. In other words, the heat shrink acts as a cover and an insulator over the business end of the connectors. I checked continuity and marked the outside of the "hot" wire and connection so I could identify it in the future.
I connected up to the battery and put the bike back together, but did not test it yet.
I have no doubt it will work, and it should also cure the pulsing headlight problem. The Gerbing harness uses 14 ga wire, so it should carry the load much better....
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Quote:
I had to change my rear brakes today and since we were under a tornado watch and the wind was blowing like mad, all honey-do activities were put on hold.
Property management do's all day Saturday then honey-dos all day sunday. So much for an early wakeup but at least I did ride to breakfast in the morning.
Quote:
...I removed the seat and the tank and then removed the plastic harness cover next to the air filter. I ran the wires under the frame next to the fuse box to reach the battery, ran the wires the other way so that the wires exited from under a notch in that harness cover, while the 15 amp inline fuse was wedged between that cover and the frame. Then I ran those wires along the main harness under the spine of the frame, wrapping them around the main harness so they couldn't drop into the throttle linkage/carb area.
Pictures please? 
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I thought about taking pictures, but this really isn't that technical. Once you take the tank and seat off, you will see what I mean. The choices for a "clean" install are rather limited.
I'm riding to work this afternoon, so I will be testing it out on the way home tonight.
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Tested. Works fine. No more pulsing lights.
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Ok, thanks for testing it. I will follow in your pioneering footsteps. One thing I will be checking for a while is that the battery is still charging more than discharging. You may want to pay attention to this especially if you are riding more than an hour. Just in case although it sounds unlikely.
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When I get my new battery from Brent, and I get my new gloves from Gerbing, my "ensemble" will be complete. At that time, I will do some checks on the battery charge/discharge at different rpms. Gerbings even tells you that if you spend a long time just "putting" around town and stopping at multiple red lights, etc., you should be aware that you can drain the battery. Around my neck of the woods, that should not normally be a problem....
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After using the Gerbing heated jacket and gloves I drained the TA battery. It wouldn't start the next day after I parked it. And then it happened again on the road and barely started. Now I just turn the jacket off once it heats up.
Is a better battery a solution to this? Our batteries are rated 10Amphours. The alternator is rated at 27A.
How is that new battery from Brent?
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I haven't installed it yet....... Between the weather turning nasty, and other "life" stuff getting in my way, I haven't spent any time with the bike except for the occassional ride to work. I did get one ride in, about 85 miles, and there were no problems with the bike or the clothing. I ordered a battery tender with a plug that connects into the BMW receptacle, so my wiring mod should make using it much easier.
One of these days I'll get back to it.....
But even with the old battery, I've run 140 miles with the jacket liner, the glove liners, and the socks and never had a problem. You may want to start checking things....
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